Taisamlu?

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:2cents: if they remind you of the antoniotsai instruments, I think you're better off staying away from them. Where are you located?
 
I don't like a lot of inlay. Those look too good to be true - and you know what they say.............

John Colter.
 
In the interest of science I pulled the trigger on soprano from them today. I will, of course, let you know how I get on!

If its rubbish, it will appear in the marketplace as the Martin's 'lost' 6K model...;-)
 
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i'm intrigued. price is great, and I actually like the look - but something is screaming "too good to be true".

Saw some similar solid ukes on uk ebay recently, loads of binding, mother of pearl inlays etc. Emailed the guy and he was a bit vague in response, so I bottled it.

Do let us know how it goes.
 
Wow, can't wait to hear what that soprano's like.
Some of them also come with a really nice hard case, so even if it is crap, it's like buying a case and getting a free uke.
 
I've got a tenor from the same seller.

not bad for the price... but definitely looks better on the interweb than in person... and truth be told, it also looks pretty decent from a few feet away, but close inspection reveals problems... at least with mine.

first off, all that gorgeous inlay (and it is pretty nice looking) is pretty hastily done... on my rosewood fret board, they over-carved and filled in the gaps with matching putty or something. again, looks fine from a far. the fancy MOP purfing on mine is laid in pretty rough and the small gaps were left to be filled in with whatever they used for finish... which is sprayed on pretty thick. I'm guessing it some gloss polyurethane. As i mentioned, the finish is pretty thick, i'm guessing to cover up gaps and smooth out the rough wood. the body on mine is solid Koa (probably sourced in Asia) as listed, but I would say that there was little to no attempts made to sand/plane it smooth.... even with the previously mentioned thick finish coat the wood is visibly wavy... but thankfully not because its warped.

they used a stain on the Mahogany neck and it is really dark... and they may have just quickly masked and sprayed it 'cause the mask job is not so great, the bad masking got stain on the koa wood part where the neck joins the body... most noticeable on the side of the body with the cutaway at the transition. the dark stain shows little of the woods characteristics... which must be unremarkable.

near some of the structural areas of the body, like on the back near the neck, I can see the small holes filled with metal... I assume that these are nails... they must be pin nailing some areas to hold the uke together while the glue dries rather than clamping. not sure how that might affect sound, but visually it adds to the sense that these ukes are made very quickly.

there are some finish issues too. and the slots for the slotted head stock is completely unfinished... like they cut the slots after the final gloss finish was sprayed.

Overall, visually it makes for a great uke for display on a high-not-so-accessible shelf.

most of the issues I've mentioned till now are largely cosmetic...

I guess it wouldn't be too bad if it the uke sounded decent...

and for the most part it does... NOW ... AFTER I've put some work setting it up.

The "master luthier" (as the listing states) that made mine must have been having an off day. the intonation is not perfect, but it's not bad, well within the range I've seen with lower priced instrument grade mass produced ukes. Frets needed a little filing down to make even. I had to file a new nut because it was too low and there was a lot of buzzing... well, to be fair it didn't buzz until I filled down the saddle to lower the too high action down the fretboard. the new nut fixed another problem, the string spacing wasn't even at the nut... I didn't have spacing rule so i did it by eye and it still ended up better than the original set up. Oooo, almost forgot to mention that the saddle was/is not parallel, that is, it is deeper on one side than the other... the whole bridge is hand carved out of Koa and I think they carved out the saddle channel real quick, and jam in the saddle and mark the line to file down to... the channel depth was uneven, so the saddle is thicker on one side than the other... I guess I wouldn't have noticed if I didn't take it out to file down. I am probably going to eventually make a jig and router out the channel to straighten the depth... which means I'll have to file a new saddle, which is good because the original saddle is also skinnier than the channel it sits in so it laid in there at an angle held in by the strings. at the moment I cut a little strip of card stock to fill the gap and now the saddle is straight in there.

all that said, sound-wise it's not bad... it has a fairly sweet tone. pretty solid-Koa like... which it is, so I suppose I shouldn't be as surprised as I am. It's not as loud as I expect and maybe not as full as I would expect either... part of that might be because it is a cutaway.

If you don't put in the effort to get it set up better, it may only be useful as wall art, but after the work I put into it, not only does it look really nice when not scrutinized, it is a pretty nice sounding uke too. They are pretty cheap so I think it is worth the money. and as mentioned in another post, the case that comes with it makes it an even better value. Actually the case is really nice. mine has a faux animal skin texture outside, nice faux fur inside and good padding... and good solid latches and a good seal that holds humidity pretty well according to my hygrometer. The case is arguably better than the uke! similar quality aftermarket cases are pretty pricey.
 
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Sounds like I have a little project on hands when it arrives. Shipped today so should have it within the week I hope.

This is the model I have gone for -
 

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Oh my, what a thorough and in-depth going over!
With all that being said, I must ask, as this is only my second ukulele should I go for one of these?
My current uke is a mahogany concert Brunswick, which has served me well, but I'm really looking for a good step up at around the 170 euro area (around $200).
Would one of these Taisamlu ukes even be a step up?
If not any other suggestions?
I was also looking at the Oscar Schmidt OU-13
 
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You cant go much wrong with Kala for that sort of price. Also Mainland get good reviews. Ohana are also worth considering. You can get a plain solid wood uke for that money. I would give the ebay ukes a miss if it was your second uke. I dont mind doing some work as one day I would like to build my own...

Is the Oscar Scmidt from a UK shop? I havent seen them for sale in the UK, they do some nice ukes though.
 
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Yeah, I looked at these when I went to upgrade, wanting something more of a performance/stage bling. After I did some research I found that too many were getting questionable quality from these merchants and I went with the Kala Acacia Tenor. it's got the slotted headstock with open geared tuners, some fretboard inlay and a lovely unique look. I've never looked back and for $300 with case and tuner from MGM...it's a great deal. Sounds great (after I put tusq on saddle and nut and some worth browns with a wound low g) and it's my main uke. I'll stick with kala for my main players and maybe get a mainland soon too. Good luck!
 
I've got a tenor from the same seller.

not bad for the price... but definitely looks better on the interweb than in person... and truth be told, it also looks pretty decent from a few feet away, but close inspection reveals problems... at least with mine.

first off, all that gorgeous inlay (and it is pretty nice looking) is pretty hastily done... on my rosewood fret board, they over-carved and filled in the gaps with matching putty or something. again, looks fine from a far. the fancy MOP purfing on mine is laid in pretty rough and the small gaps were left to be filled in with whatever they used for finish... which is sprayed on pretty thick. I'm guessing it some gloss polyurethane. As i mentioned, the finish is pretty thick, i'm guessing to cover up gaps and smooth out the rough wood. the body on mine is solid Koa (probably sourced in Asia) as listed, but I would say that there was little to no attempts made to sand/plane it smooth.... even with the previously mentioned thick finish coat the wood is visibly wavy... but thankfully not because its warped.

they used a stain on the Mahogany neck and it is really dark... and they may have just quickly masked and sprayed it 'cause the mask job is not so great, the bad masking got stain on the koa wood part where the neck joins the body... most noticeable on the side of the body with the cutaway at the transition. the dark stain shows little of the woods characteristics... which must be unremarkable.

near some of the structural areas of the body, like on the back near the neck, I can see the small holes filled with metal... I assume that these are nails... they must be pin nailing some areas to hold the uke together while the glue dries rather than clamping. not sure how that might affect sound, but visually it adds to the sense that these ukes are made very quickly.

there are some finish issues too. and the slots for the slotted head stock is completely unfinished... like they cut the slots after the final gloss finish was sprayed.

Overall, visually it makes for a great uke for display on a high-not-so-accessible shelf.

most of the issues I've mentioned till now are largely cosmetic...

I guess it wouldn't be too bad if it the uke sounded decent...

and for the most part it does... NOW ... AFTER I've put some work setting it up.

The "master luthier" (as the listing states) that made mine must have been having an off day. the intonation is not perfect, but it's not bad, well within the range I've seen with lower priced instrument grade mass produced ukes. Frets needed a little filing down to make even. I had to file a new nut because it was too low and there was a lot of buzzing... well, to be fair it didn't buzz until I filled down the saddle to lower the too high action down the fretboard. the new nut fixed another problem, the string spacing wasn't even at the nut... I didn't have spacing rule so i did it by eye and it still ended up better than the original set up. Oooo, almost forgot to mention that the saddle was/is not parallel, that is, it is deeper on one side than the other... the whole bridge is hand carved out of Koa and I think they carved out the saddle channel real quick, and jam in the saddle and mark the line to file down to... the channel depth was uneven, so the saddle is thicker on one side than the other... I guess I wouldn't have noticed if I didn't take it out to file down. I am probably going to eventually make a jig and router out the channel to straighten the depth... which means I'll have to file a new saddle, which is good because the original saddle is also skinnier than the channel it sits in so it laid in there at an angle held in by the strings. at the moment I cut a little strip of card stock to fill the gap and now the saddle is straight in there.

all that said, sound-wise it's not bad... it has a fairly sweet tone. pretty solid-Koa like... which it is, so I suppose I shouldn't be as surprised as I am. It's not as loud as I expect and maybe not as full as I would expect either... part of that might be because it is a cutaway.

If you don't put in the effort to get it set up better, it may only be useful as wall art, but after the work I put into it, not only does it look really nice when not scrutinized, it is a pretty nice sounding uke too. They are pretty cheap so I think it is worth the money. and as mentioned in another post, the case that comes with it makes it an even better value. Actually the case is really nice. mine has a faux animal skin texture outside, nice faux fur inside and good padding... and good solid latches and a good seal that holds humidity pretty well according to my hygrometer. The case is arguably better than the uke! similar quality aftermarket cases are pretty pricey.

Jinny, thanks so much for taking the time to write out a thoughtful and fair review. This is the post I shall be referring to when anyone asks about Taisamlu ukes from now on.

You rock! :worship:
 
Thanks for the good advice everyone, I think I'm going to give Taisamlu a miss.
Had a look at the Mainland ukuleles and I'm going to go for the cedar concert.
 
OK it arrived today. Was dreading this uke arriving as it was a total impulse buy and I was expecting a complete nail that would be on Ebay by the weekend or at the very best something that was going to need serious work to be playable. So...when I opened the box the first thing I saw was a really nice case. Its a leather look exterior with plush fur type lining. All very nice. The case looks more like a concert size case to be honest. I have not tried my Kanilea in there but I think it would fit. Either way it will keep the uke safe but stuff some socks in there if you want to go traveling with it!

On to the uke itself. Its heavy! Not heavy so you need to put it down after 5 minutes but more like my Kanilea concert than my Kiway soprano. Not compared it to my Honu soprano yet but probably heavier than that. I think most of the weight it in the neck, its not the best balanced uke I have ever played but the neck profile is actually nice and you get used to the weight after a few minutes of playing (I hear William King ukes are heavy so its not in bad company!). Looks wise, well I think its lovely. Really nice wood used, lovely inlay (I could lose the back inlay but the front is really very nice). The pictures speak for themselves really, it is a very pretty uke. Some of the finishing is a bit 'rustic'; there is some glue visible in a few places but not so much you would notice without close inspection. Inside the ukulele isnt all that nice, best just not to look ;-) It seems to have a smaller body than my Kiwaya. The body is certainly thinner. I will do some comparison photos soon. The tuners are great, very good quality and the bridge and saddle are bone.

So how does it play. Will I was about intonation and that the frets would not be dressed and the action would be sky high... The intonation seems pretty much dead on, though I havent tested it on a tuner yet. The frets are finished pretty much perfectly and the action is set just right, will not need to change this at all. As I mentioned the neck it a very nice width and plays very comfortably.

Sound - it sounds great! I am so pleased with it. Really opened up after an hour or two of playing. Has that midrange bark that I love but also good sustain and high end. Actually sounds brighter than my Kanilea and about as bright as my Honu but with more body behind it.

Over all - it has some rough points, but only very minor ones. I mean really minor. I can also pick fault with my Kanilea, Kala, Kiway and Honu. No uke is perfect (ok, well maybe some are, but not the ones I own!). Best value ukulele I have ever bought (and this is the 12th one I have owned)? Yes I think it is - this was £150 including shipping and a case. Thats a solid Koa, great sounding, playing, and looking, ukuele for that price. Thats rare.

My big concern is really that the person or people who put this ukulele together are getting paid what the deserve for this work. That is a concern for me.

Included pictures and a quick sound sample and will get a Youtube video up soon.

Cheers,

David.

Sound - http://www.4shared.com/file/162977446/1090d171/STE-007.html


Pics -
 

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