What *can* be done about minor fret buzz?

Rick, when are you going to attend a festival in the Los Angeles area? I just got my custom made (in Vietnam) gypsy jazz Selmer Maccaferri style uke running after waiting weeks for a replacement tailpiece (don't ask), and installing Aquila strings. Have the exact same slight buzz on the C string on the first and second fret.
 
kohanmike said:
Rick, when are you going to attend a festival in the Los Angeles area? I just got my custom made (in Vietnam) gypsy jazz Selmer Maccaferri style uke running after waiting weeks for a replacement tailpiece (don't ask), and installing Aquila strings. Have the exact same slight buzz on the C string on the first and second fret.
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is there neck relief built into the neck?....
is the neck pretty straight...no back bow....
 
Rick Turner said:
... We reglued the neck on what had to be a $40.00 uke that had been sat upon at the last Strawberry, and the look on the couple's faces when it was playable again was worth as much as we got paid to fix it. A beautiful end result? No. But it was for damned sure playable!
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That, Sir, is one of the most refreshing anecdotes I've read in a while. It makes me feel good inside to know that there are people out there who genuinely care :cool:
 
I've had little buzzes on C strings (when fretted), that have been cured by putting on a wound C string. GHS sells one.
 
Doc_J said:
I've had little buzzes on C strings (when fretted), that have been cured by putting on a wound C string. GHS sells one.
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But isn't that just like a band-aid? I think a properly set up uke should be able to use the strings you want.
 
HBolte said:
But isn't that just like a band-aid? I think a properly set up uke should be able to use the strings you want.
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A properly set up uke will be set up to the strings you use when it's set up. You'd need to use the same diameter strings when switching if you expect it to perform the same.
 
kohanmike said:
No truss rods or such. I'll have to give it a good look-see or send it off to my luthier.
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Pono is the only ones that I know that have a truss rod in their uke necks....
neck relief is built into the fretboard/neck..a slight dip/curve built onto the fretboard...

many builders do not build it in..they count on the strings to bow the neck correctly....
 
You guys just amaze me - you're all so fearless about manipulating your instruments! I need to change the strings on my uke, but i'm quaking in my boots about it (i was thinking my technique must be getting worse, but i learned just this morning that the wear on the underside of the strings over the fret markers is bad enough to snag my fingernail on).
 
HBolte said:
But isn't that just like a band-aid? I think a properly set up uke should be able to use the strings you want.
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True. But I like wound C strings and sometimes I'm too lazy to make a new saddle. :)
 
Rick Turner said:
As for filling at the nut...If an instrument needs this, then the superglue and baking soda fix works great and it lasts a long time. The major caveats are: 1) If you get superglue on the finish...particularly nitro lacquer...you screwed the pooch. 2) You should have the proper (yes, expensive) round bottomed files for recutting the nut slot(s).

Stewart MacDonald Guitar Shop Supply has everything you need for this stuff including tutorials. I know I'm going to get a lot of flack for not suggesting a super cheap way to do this, but I have yet to see a super cheap way that takes a reasonable amount of time and produces professional results...or even half-way decent amateur results.

You can hold the bumpers onto your car with wire ties and gaffer's tape, too...but....
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No flack , BUT, not everyone lives near a professional and
Unfortunately, not everyone can afford a proper set of nut files, and when purchasing "inexpensive" ukuleles, the thing that makes many unplayable is high action at the nut. I have taken many inexpensive ukuleles and made them much more playable for folks with some mini hacksaw blades with the sides ground and a set of welding tip cleaners [for rounding the bottom of the slots] If I were to do this more than occasionally , I would purchase the proper tools. Adjusting the action is not rocket science ,especially if no fretwork is needed. if you live in a rural area you learn a lot of" do it yourself". I like to think I get half way decent amateur results. I could be wrong. and these "tools" cost less than $10. Now I need to go find my duct tape so I can fix my bumper
And Rick, I appreciate your posts and your sharing your knowledge with us.
 
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kohanmike said:
Rick, when are you going to attend a festival in the Los Angeles area? I just got my custom made (in Vietnam) gypsy jazz Selmer Maccaferri style uke running after waiting weeks for a replacement tailpiece (don't ask), and installing Aquila strings. Have the exact same slight buzz on the C string on the first and second fret.
Click to expand...

hey Mike, with the number of ukes you continue to buy, it might be worth it buy a few tools
 
Well, you could remove an friend's appendix with a pocket knife, sharpened spoon, and vice grips after knocking them with a bottle of whiskey...in the mouth and on the head, and then sew them up with sewing thread, but there's nothing quite like having the right tools for the job, and if you do collect or buy and sell instruments with any frequency, then the tools will pay for themselves sooner than later. I've seen all sorts of suggestions like using welding torch tip cleaners as nut files, etc., etc., but you get better results faster with the right tools. To do most basic nut and fret work on ukes shouldn't cost more than about $100.00 for good tools from StewMac, and they'll last for tens of years.
 
I need to dress the ends of fret wires on a couple instruments. What is the appropriate type and size of file to purchase for this purpose?
While we're on the subject what is the appropriate type and size of file to purchase for fret crowning?
 
It's hard to go wrong with the tools that StewMac sells, and the cost will fade from memory as the utility of them becomes apparent. You'll need the smallest of their fret crowning files for most ukes.
 
Rick Turner said:
Well, you could remove an friend's appendix with a pocket knife, sharpened spoon, and vice grips after knocking them with a bottle of whiskey...in the mouth and on the head, and then sew them up with sewing thread, but there's nothing quite like having the right tools for the job, and if you do collect or buy and sell instruments with any frequency, then the tools will pay for themselves sooner than later. I've seen all sorts of suggestions like using welding torch tip cleaners as nut files, etc., etc., but you get better results faster with the right tools. To do most basic nut and fret work on ukes shouldn't cost more than about $100.00 for good tools from StewMac, and they'll last for tens of years.
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you are absolutely right, nothing like having the right quality tools. I'ts time I invested in some, right after I finish this appendectomy.
 
strumsilly said:
you are absolutely right, nothing like having the right quality tools. I'ts time I invested in some, right after I finish this appendectomy.
Click to expand...

Yep, I've picked up tools and learned a few things as little problems on ukes pop up. A couple StewMac nut files, fret end files, and micromesh pads, are well worth their price. Maybe a good new thread would be recommended tools.
 
Doc_J said:
Yep, I've picked up tools and learned a few things as little problems on ukes pop up. A couple StewMac nut files, fret end files, and micromesh pads, are well worth their price. Maybe a good new thread would be recommended tools.
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The fret rocker is such a simple too but works really well to find uneven heights for the fret
 
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