IamNoMan
Well-known member
OreganJim, you are correct about the MAP, (Not MAPP- as prevously stated by me). I am in agreement with your observations but wish to reiterate your comments about MAP -Minimum Advertised Price. When I read your comments about MAP I recieved a different impression of what you were saying. Twas confusing.
As OregonJim stated the MAP price is the minimum price an authorized dealer can advertise. There is room for negotiation. The way the business works is the Mfr cost is usually 40% of the list or MAP price. The Mfr will normally discount his MAP to dealers - wholesale price - to 45% to 50% of MAP,(List) price. Dealers are retailers. they markup their wholesale price to sell to you at retail. ( the mfr is the wholesaler, the dealer is the retailer). The retailer has wiggle room. Typically I've seen retail prices of 75% of list. You should be able to Purchase your uke for ~ 60-65% of list, If I see a price much less than 60% I get suspicious that something is wrong that I'm not being told about. From what I can tell when a blemish is concerned the price is seldom knocked down more than $40.
To state once again in adifferent way. 60% of list is a good price. 75% of list is an average price. On the Manufacturer's web site they will list MAP or List price.So go to CF Martin look at the price of the IZ Tenor. Its ~2000. "Izzy" - my Martin IZ tenor cost me $1200 from vintage instruments - a Martin MAP Dealer. Do the numbers - 60%. I did manage to haggle the price down a little but it was pennies. MAPP is very confusing it is different from MAP.
Jim thank you for the west coast perspective. Comparative data is good!
What Jim and I have indicate about individualized set-up is valid. you ultimately want the action that suits YOU. Many people jump into string swapping early on to get the set-up you want. Initial Set-up to my mind means the instrument is is proper playable shape when you buy it. That is to say no buzzes, fret wires dressed, (badly dressed fret wires will cut your hands up something fierce) etc. The advantage to getting an ala-carte set-up fee from your local dealer comes in handy when you receive a badly set up instrument through the mails. My local shop is Guitar Center, the luthier will check the instruments they sell and any you might bring in to check free, if you ask nicely. They charge $40 for corrective set-up jobs. Don't buy an instrument at a brick and mortar store that is badly set-up. If they don't have properly set-up instruments in stock, or correct the problem for free, they can order another one that is properly set up.
As OregonJim stated the MAP price is the minimum price an authorized dealer can advertise. There is room for negotiation. The way the business works is the Mfr cost is usually 40% of the list or MAP price. The Mfr will normally discount his MAP to dealers - wholesale price - to 45% to 50% of MAP,(List) price. Dealers are retailers. they markup their wholesale price to sell to you at retail. ( the mfr is the wholesaler, the dealer is the retailer). The retailer has wiggle room. Typically I've seen retail prices of 75% of list. You should be able to Purchase your uke for ~ 60-65% of list, If I see a price much less than 60% I get suspicious that something is wrong that I'm not being told about. From what I can tell when a blemish is concerned the price is seldom knocked down more than $40.
To state once again in adifferent way. 60% of list is a good price. 75% of list is an average price. On the Manufacturer's web site they will list MAP or List price.So go to CF Martin look at the price of the IZ Tenor. Its ~2000. "Izzy" - my Martin IZ tenor cost me $1200 from vintage instruments - a Martin MAP Dealer. Do the numbers - 60%. I did manage to haggle the price down a little but it was pennies. MAPP is very confusing it is different from MAP.
Jim thank you for the west coast perspective. Comparative data is good!
What Jim and I have indicate about individualized set-up is valid. you ultimately want the action that suits YOU. Many people jump into string swapping early on to get the set-up you want. Initial Set-up to my mind means the instrument is is proper playable shape when you buy it. That is to say no buzzes, fret wires dressed, (badly dressed fret wires will cut your hands up something fierce) etc. The advantage to getting an ala-carte set-up fee from your local dealer comes in handy when you receive a badly set up instrument through the mails. My local shop is Guitar Center, the luthier will check the instruments they sell and any you might bring in to check free, if you ask nicely. They charge $40 for corrective set-up jobs. Don't buy an instrument at a brick and mortar store that is badly set-up. If they don't have properly set-up instruments in stock, or correct the problem for free, they can order another one that is properly set up.