TIPS for Buying your First New UKUKELE

OreganJim, you are correct about the MAP, (Not MAPP- as prevously stated by me). I am in agreement with your observations but wish to reiterate your comments about MAP -Minimum Advertised Price. When I read your comments about MAP I recieved a different impression of what you were saying. Twas confusing.

As OregonJim stated the MAP price is the minimum price an authorized dealer can advertise. There is room for negotiation. The way the business works is the Mfr cost is usually 40% of the list or MAP price. The Mfr will normally discount his MAP to dealers - wholesale price - to 45% to 50% of MAP,(List) price. Dealers are retailers. they markup their wholesale price to sell to you at retail. ( the mfr is the wholesaler, the dealer is the retailer). The retailer has wiggle room. Typically I've seen retail prices of 75% of list. You should be able to Purchase your uke for ~ 60-65% of list, If I see a price much less than 60% I get suspicious that something is wrong that I'm not being told about. From what I can tell when a blemish is concerned the price is seldom knocked down more than $40.

To state once again in adifferent way. 60% of list is a good price. 75% of list is an average price. On the Manufacturer's web site they will list MAP or List price.So go to CF Martin look at the price of the IZ Tenor. Its ~2000. "Izzy" - my Martin IZ tenor cost me $1200 from vintage instruments - a Martin MAP Dealer. Do the numbers - 60%. I did manage to haggle the price down a little but it was pennies. MAPP is very confusing it is different from MAP.

Jim thank you for the west coast perspective. Comparative data is good!

What Jim and I have indicate about individualized set-up is valid. you ultimately want the action that suits YOU. Many people jump into string swapping early on to get the set-up you want. Initial Set-up to my mind means the instrument is is proper playable shape when you buy it. That is to say no buzzes, fret wires dressed, (badly dressed fret wires will cut your hands up something fierce) etc. The advantage to getting an ala-carte set-up fee from your local dealer comes in handy when you receive a badly set up instrument through the mails. My local shop is Guitar Center, the luthier will check the instruments they sell and any you might bring in to check free, if you ask nicely. They charge $40 for corrective set-up jobs. Don't buy an instrument at a brick and mortar store that is badly set-up. If they don't have properly set-up instruments in stock, or correct the problem for free, they can order another one that is properly set up.
 
Now you've got it!

Just one clarification:

MAPP is very confusing it is different from MAP.

They refer to the same thing.

MAP = Minimum Advertised Price (the price itself)
MAPP = Minimum Advertised Price Policy (the document that defines the price and how to use it)
 
A beginner has several choices:

Go shopping local with an experienced player.

Buy a new/2nd/lightly used flea or fluke.

Pick a non bottom barrel ukulele from an online setup place like HMS, mim's, uke republic. Blindly select a price range and size and buy.

I haven't tried this but might work: beg for a starter uke from anyone on these forums. those of us with cheap but personally well setup ukuleles may want to thin the cheap herd for your benefit. (does this really work?)

I tried option 3 with poor results...option 2 got me really started down the road of decent ukuleles.
 
Tips?

Dont skimp on price - the $15 ukulele is the curse of the instrument
Buy from a REAL store - not just any music store - one with dealers who actually play and know ukuleles - thankfully there are plenty about and they go against my usual advice of not buying instruments online. They know who they are and will ensure that bad examples don't get out to you. Most also do a basic setup.
(there is no such thing as a full setup as part of the price is there - how do they know how you like your action?)
Research research research. Read up on the uke beforehand and read IMPARTIAL reviews - (i.e. not those where they have paid to appear in magazines - read from real life players and performers)

Just a few tips I would work to every time
 
the intent is well received...and imho pretty good...BUT...

MAP v. MAPP v. MSRP...who cares? :mad:

after all:

1) join a reputable blogspot [already done if you are reading this]
2) research what you wish to buy
3) listen to online sound samples
4) try many different models in a local store...or one close by..or one while on vacation
5) figure out what you can afford...or a different way...figure out how you can buy the one you love when you tried it out!
6) plan on playing it often...at least once a week...hopefully more if drop big coin on it
7) find a reputable dealer - like what everyone else said b4 me - but it might need to get fixed...or restrung [in case u do not know how]
etc. etc.
 
3) listen to online sound samples
I am sceptical about this. I have purchased instruments using this criteria. However I have heard two sound samples by two different players on the same instrument. The difference in perceived sound quality was astounding. If offered two sound samples on the same/ similar instrument listen to the poorer player to see how it sounds, not how it may sound!
 
I am sceptical about this. I have purchased instruments using this criteria. However I have heard two sound samples by two different players on the same instrument. The difference in perceived sound quality was astounding.

I am highly skeptical as well. Not only is the tone colored by the person playing, but there is no standardization in sound recording equiipment or post processing. What we hear online bears very little resemblance to actual, in-person tone. If you must shop this way, at least choose only side-by-side comparisons, with recordings using the same player and recording equipment, in the same session.
 
Yes what they said! Here is an extreme example!



When my Smiley came in I would have been happy if it was close to this sound. After a few hours work my smiley can sound that good I still cant play that dang song yet though.
 
Dare I say 'read impartial reviews' of instruments. Not just mine on Got A Ukulele, but those on this board too.

Not magazine, paid for reviews, or reviews played by impresarios for ukulele stores with an interest in selling them. Real world reviews from real world enthusiasts.
 
If you enjoy paying retail price for everything, then you can safely forget about the whole discussion.

Price is one thing...and much less important than perceived [self-demo] sound, imho. If price is your major focus [objection], buy a cheap ukulele that can be easily replaced over and over again...I tend to prioritize my purchases by sound, feel, balance, service, convenience,...and then price [how can I get this?]...very difficult to get the ukulele you tried for cheaper! Maybe only demo at the cheapest place.
 
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I am sceptical about this. I have purchased instruments using this criteria. However I have heard two sound samples by two different players on the same instrument. The difference in perceived sound quality was astounding. If offered two sound samples on the same/ similar instrument listen to the poorer player to see how it sounds, not how it may sound!

rule 4) :rulez:

the most important rule...wherever possible TRY BEFORE YOU BUY. all caps for emphasis...and not yelling.
 
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