Outside of the box

Question..... why wait so long to put the inserts in?........ We place inserts in place prior to cutting the tenon!

If your using a template to cut the tenon this is not a problem....there is never tear out and the wood is always supported.......I'd also recommend using a glue that will take on the brass and the wood...... (we use Roo-Glue) glue works as a lubricant when treading the insert in place and also helps with not being able to pull the threaded insert out or stripping the wood fibers after you place the bolt in place (nothing worse than stripping your insert from the wood) ..... You can also get taps that are the same thread if you look at machine supply outfitters. In wood larger threads are always preferred....... finer threads intend for metal...

kw
 
I fit the neck, about 90% of the way before i put the inserts in.
My tenons are about 20mm wide, but my heel is wide. I'd recommend using the widest tenon you can to minimize the tenon sides from blowing out.
 
Last edited:
Kevin Waldron said:
Question..... why wait so long to put the inserts in?........ We place inserts in place prior to cutting the tenon!
Click to expand...
Thought about doing that, specifically to eliminate tear out. I would agree, much better end result from a tearout perspective.

Because everything is registered off my centerline (for the CF rod), which is registered off one side, I haven't thought of how to get the holes for the inserts centered to incorporate into my process, yet. How do you center your holes on your neck blank?

I used a jig in the past to support the tenon cheeks, but the doweling jig is just, cool.
 
Last edited:
Our system is a commercial jig made by LuthierTools.......... not easy to show how it works.........have some pictures but want show the important stuff.....

Check this tool out...... our jig works on the same principle........ http://www.bridgecitytools.com/default/tools/drilling/drilling-jigs.html...... by the way this company has been making these type of fixtures for more than 25 years..... originally they started making them as center line scribes.....

kevin
 
I scoped out their block plane in the past. I'm thinking of getting the chopstick, just for fun, and for the plane.

Let me move some ukes first. . .
 
Kekani said:
Because Beau asked, and I didn't want to hijack the other thread (which we already did), here's the bridge slotting jig, with back angle insert.
Here's all the pieces:
View attachment 86225
With the angled insert for the saddle slot
View attachment 86226
View attachment 86227
Without the insert for the tie channel, added a spacer strip to push the router "out". Note the guidelines for "start" and "end"
View attachment 86228
Probably one of my better pics showing the angle, with the insert underneath.
View attachment 86229

It seems non-adjustable for my one size bridge. I've used it for my larger tiple bridge. The main thing is the "hold" piece is slightly smaller than the smallest bridge, as shown in the 4th pic, which doesn't have the insert.

And its clamped to my router table.

Clear as mud?
Click to expand...
Ok, I finally did a video. Its fairly long, so just fast forward through the actual routing, when the dust collector is on.
 
This thread has been a fantastic read! I've been away from building for a while, and now I'm beginning to remember all of the terrifying problems that I never truly addressed on my prior builds. I'm getting nervous just thinking about it!
 
Kekani said:
Ok, I finally did a video. Its fairly long, so just fast forward through the actual routing, when the dust collector is on.
Click to expand...


UPDATE! I cleared this through Rick, because I like giving credit where it's due... The Turner Tilt-back Saddle originated when Rick came up with it for a guitar that was in his shop (belonged to Peter Frampton at the time).
 
Just another way to cut a headstock scarf joint. Been using the table saw for a long time. Had the sliding miter saw for a long time. Now I get to do this in 1 pass (even though the vid shows two - it was only the 2nd time I used it).

 
Vacuum pressing with Hot Hide Glue.

While not groundbreaking by any means, I got rid of my Go-bar deck a while ago.

The back is being glued on a radius dish, with the cleats glued first, then the braces.
68A402E3-2A3A-4007-9D48-E37D8C22C6D4.jpeg

The top is a sequence as well (I normally don’t do a donut, this was an exception), braces and bridge plate first, then fan braces and soundhole braces (not shown here).
D2AF2341-8E92-41CC-8810-E30CD2235D04.jpeg

Both of these were done within a span of an hour.
 
My DIY buffing arbor in action.

What's outside the box about buffing arbors? Nothing, except this footprint fits me.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Farkvam
No longer available Shipping Outside Canada Now: Ohana SK-25 Solid Mahogany Soprano with Brand Gig Bag and Box
Replies
9
Views
693
Farkvam
Farkvam
Voran
Singing outside on the ring fort...
Replies
4
Views
263
Voran
Voran
diasuke
car/garage/outside Uke
Replies
16
Views
1K
chris667
chris667
Jerryc41
Playing Outside - the Downside
2
Replies
28
Views
1K
Doug W
Doug W
don_b
Favorite chord progressions outside of primary positions
Replies
10
Views
677
anthonyg
anthonyg
Top Bottom