Neck and fretboard advice please

Hi there, I am attempting my first Tenor build using a kit.

Please can I seek advice regarding fretboard attachment.
At the moment, the neck is still a ‘blank’ waiting to be shaped, but the fretboard is wider than the neck.

would you glue/attach first then trim, or trim to size first?
depending on method used, is it OK to ‘fret’ once glued in place or should I fret before attachment?

I wanted the fretboard to integrate smoothly with the neck rather than just being ‘stuck on top.

I hope this makes sense?


KEV

I profile the fingerboard before gluing. I also leave the neck as a blank until its fitted to the body, then if the center lines don't quite match the fingerboard can be finagled slightly to make the alignment precise. Then the neck can be profiled as you have it, the 'board glued on, and final shaping completed. You can fret the 'board whenever you like, but before gluing it to the neck is easier.

jcalkin said:

I profile the fingerboard before gluing. I also leave the neck as a blank until its fitted to the body, then if the center lines don't quite match the fingerboard can be finagled slightly to make the alignment precise. Then the neck can be profiled as you have it, the 'board glued on, and final shaping completed. You can fret the 'board whenever you like, but before gluing it to the neck is easier.

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Thanks for your guide, you suggest:
Fit neck to body, profile fretboard to the neck blank shape (not glue).
Shape the neck blank then
Fret up the board before glueing to it the now profiled neck. and then final shape/smooth?

Is it possible then to final shape / smooth when frets are in place?

thanks again for help

If the answer to your last question is yes then you've outlined the exact way I do it.
Good luck & have fun on your first. Take notes because it's not likely to be your last!

Moore Bettah Ukuleles said:

If the answer to your last question is yes then you've outlined the exact way I do it.
Good luck & have fun on your first. Take notes because it's not likely to be your last!

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Thank you for taking time to give an input,
respectfully, I m afraid I do not understand your answer. do you mean you solve this issue in the way jcalcin suggested?

As for future builds.. I can wait! I’ve already seen things I can do better, sourcing kit etc!!! cigar box is also on the cards!

For now though, I must resolve this!

thanks again

I am a hobby maker.

I always cut the fret slots (yours already done), then shape the fretboard, then add the frets.

I rough out my necks independently of the state of build of the box. When the box is assembled (before binding and sanding), I cut the neck joint (tapered dovetail). At this point I more or less finish shaping the neck, heel and head: I leave the neck a little wide. When the binding is done and the box sanded, I check and correct the neck joint fit and neck alignment. I then glue on the fretboard paying attention to alignment (a little wiggle room here) and knowing it will sit snugly on the soundboard. I then finish the neck (reducing its width to match the fretboard) and sand the whole.

I then glue the neck to the box. It requires very little sanding before applying the finish (usually Tru oil). Some makers will finish both the box and the neck and then glue or bolt them together. Some makers will glue the neck to the box then ensure all is flat before gluing on the fretboard.

You'll learn a great deal with your first build and develop your own ways of working.

You don't say how you are joining the neck to the box. Whatever method you use, you need to think carefully about how you are going to ensure correct neck alignment.

The plan is to use a 'biscuit' joint for the neck (+ glue!)
Interestingly, I havnt seen this method suggested anywhere! But it was how the Kit parts were sold.

As you suggest, Im learning loads. And will change a few things next time.
It's just trying to decide which method to use 'this time'

KEV

The only problem with fretting the fingerboard before you glue it onto the neck and body, is if for some reason you get a slight hump at the neck/body joint after being glued, you're screwed. If the hump is very slight you can some times file the frets and remove the hump, but if the hump is more than slight, out come the frets, resanding the fingerboard, cutting the lots, etc. You're call.

BlackBearUkes said:

The only problem with fretting the fingerboard before you glue it onto the neck and body, is if for some reason you get a slight hump at the neck/body joint after being glued, you're screwed. If the hump is very slight you can some times file the frets and remove the hump, but if the hump is more than slight, out come the frets, resanding the fingerboard, cutting the lots, etc. You're call.

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That, of course, is the biggest drawback and it's imperative that there is no hump at the neck/body joint. I use a bolt on neck and I can do minute adjustments up until it's finally attached to make sure the neck and upper bout are on the same plane. I've never been comfortable hammering frets on the extension with a backing caul but there are plenty of builders who swear by that method.

My method is to glue on the fret board before tapering the neck so they can be sawn at the same time. Fretting is done before attaching the neck to the body. I also have another style that requires that the frets be installed before gluing on the fret board and haven't had any issues doing it that way (always pin register the fret board to the neck in both cases to avoid movement when gluing).

Thank you all for such an array of advice.
It seams as though there is ‘no particular way’ to do this, I guess i’ll just have to find out 'my way’
Its very interesting to read that many pro luthiers do it in different ways!

The main thing for me is that the fretboard is WIDER than the neck.
I think (this time) I will :
1 Shape neck
2 Profile fretboard to neck width
3 fret up the board
4 attach neck to body
5 glue on fretboard
6 final shape/sand neck to fretboard...

Or should I.......?

(and then theres the head stock!!!)