Tilting bridge on Gretsch G9100-L

cpmusic

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I just bought this Gretsch G9100-L used via ebay on a whim, and it's got bridge problems that weren't apparent in the ebay pictures. It's not returnable, so I thought I'd check in here.

G3_bridge-tilt.JPGG4_bridge-tilt.JPGG1_bridge-gaps.JPGG2_bridge-gaps.JPG

As you can see from these pictures, the bridge is tilting forward, lifting the top behind it and sinking the top in front. Also, there are gaps under the rear corners of the bridge, so the raised area of the top is uneven.

I don't know if this was caused by what appears to be an unusually tall saddle, poor design (that's a very small bridge), or poor construction. It may even be that the bridge came off and was re-glued. Whatever the case, I get the feeling the top will break eventually. If I reach into the soundhole and press up on the sunken area, I can actually feel the wood give a little.

This uke actually plays well and sounds good as it is, so I'm wondering whether to try a repair for which I have no experience, or let it be and chalk it up to lessons learned if/when it breaks (I paid a little less than half the price of a new one). I'm sure a professional repair would cost more than even a new uke of this model, and I'd rather not throw good money after bad.

Thanks in advance.
 
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That bridge needs to be reset. A local luthier should be able to do it at not too much cost. Bridges are the "safety valve". They are made to be the first thing that lets go if there's too much tension. If it was my ukulele I'd take the tension off the strings until I could get it evaluated. If it sounds good it's worth trying to keep it playing. No point in wasting the materials and labor. Even if the repair costs what you paid for it you don't have to shell out for another uke.
 
Thanks, PereBourik. I had the bridge replaced on one of my guitars and it only cost about $75, but that was in the early 90s, and I had a feeling that kind of work would be a lot more expensive today. I know of a good shop where I've had other work done recently, and I'll check in with them this week. In the meantime, I've loosened the tension.
 
Wow jinx! The bridge of mine is pulling the top of mine up. Mine is the El. Acoustic model, but is also the long neck.

I'll post pix soon. It should be covered under warranty.
 
Yikes! I hope that's not a common problem with the Gretsch ukes, but if yours is under warranty, at least you have that on your side.
 
Just a thought: since the G9100-L and the G9100 have the same body and bridge, I wonder if the rig isn't strong enough for the higher tension of the concert scale and/or a concert string set (I don't know which strings the factory ships it with). A reviewer at Amazon sent back his G9100-L due to a tilted bridge, and I found a used one posted online with a crack across the soundboard where mine is pushed in. I know that four problem ukes isn't much to go on, but as I said, it's just a thought.
 
Just a thought: since the G9100-L and the G9100 have the same body and bridge, I wonder if the rig isn't strong enough for the higher tension of the concert scale and/or a concert string set (I don't know which strings the factory ships it with). A reviewer at Amazon sent back his G9100-L due to a tilted bridge, and I found a used one posted online with a crack across the soundboard where mine is pushed in. I know that four problem ukes isn't much to go on, but as I said, it's just a thought.
I think you're onto something there. If there are multiple ukes doing this, it seems the top is not properly braced to handle the string tension.
Most any instrument will have at least a little bit of lean at the bridge, and it can worsen over the years...but this definitely shouldn't be happening on a new instrument.
Too bad they don't make a uke version of the JLD bridge doctor.
I have seen one guy wedge a PVC pipe cut to JUST the right length between the top and back of an instrument to correct that issue... I'd say that'd be better than just throwing an instrument away at least. Of course the bridge would still have to be properly glued even after the top issue was fixed...Then a new saddle the proper height fitted, etc...

...OR maybe they just didn't do a good job gluing the bridge on......

I keep editing this post...Another thought:
If an instrument gets too dry, the top will sink too, which can lead to the bridge lifting.
From my understanding, a lot of mass produced uke are built from wood that hasn't even gone through the proper process of getting it regulated to the right moisture content, etc.... Of course if you leave a uke in a low humidity environment this can happen regardless. It doesn't matter if it's laminate or solid wood either. Usually laminate instruments have solid wood braces, but either way they can still get dry.
 
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I can't find a mirror small enough to get inside this uke, but I can reach in with my index finger almost to the bridge, and aside of a lateral brace just behind the soundhole (and, no surprise, just in front of the sunken area), I can't feel anything supporting the bridge. I'm not even sure there's a bridge plate; if there is, it can't be much larger than the bridge. I don't know if this is normal for low-end soprano ukes, but given the thinness of the wood, it seems to me that the bracing should be more substantial.

The again, it could be as simple as a saddle that's too tall. Comparing to my Kala KA-SLNG, I note that both bridges are the same height (0.25") but the Gretsch's saddle is twice as tall above the bridge, 0.16" vs 0.08". It's also got a much smaller footprint at 2.47" x 0.63" compared to the Kala's bridge at 3.09" x 0.94".

In fairness, the Kala was set up by HMS, and it's pretty clear that the Gretsch wasn't set up at all. But given the small footprint of the Gretsch bridge and the thinness of the top wood, it's easy to see how a tall saddle would pull the bridge forward. And, as Jer noted, humidity could well be in the mix even with laminated wood.

Then again-again, I may be over-thinking the matter. I do that sometimes.
 
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Yikes! I hope that's not a common problem with the Gretsch ukes

I have the G9120 SM Solid Mahogany...No problem at all! I, also, have the G9100 soprano...No problem no problem, there. It's all laminate but very nice.

Just a thought: since the G9100-L and the G9100 have the same body and bridge, I wonder if the rig isn't strong enough for the higher tension of the concert scale and/or a concert string set (I don't know which strings the factory ships it with). A reviewer at Amazon sent back his G9100-L due to a tilted bridge, and I found a used one posted online with a crack across the soundboard where mine is pushed in. I know that four problem ukes isn't much to go on, but as I said, it's just a thought.

Of the 3 I own, the G9110-L has the poorest build quality. It appears to be made in a different factory from either of the other 2. I'll try to post pix of them tonight!
 
I used a small mirror to look at the underside of the G9100-L's top, and I was right about the bridge plate: there isn't one. The Kala, by contrast, has a bridge plate longer than the bridge and roughly the width and thickness of a tongue depressor.

In the Gretsch, the only thing supporting the top between soundhole and end block is the lateral brace just inside the soundhole, and it's too far forward to keep the bridge from twisting. I can see the ends of two small screws under the bridge, but nothing else. What the heck were they thinking?
 
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Yikes. Maybe they had bridges pop off at the factory also and the two screws was their "fix" instead of addressing the root of the problem. If that's the case, I hope they have addressed it by now.
 
I certainly hope the factory has addressed this by now, but since my uke's top is clearly deformed, it's going to need more than just re-gluing the bridge. It's not under warranty and I doubt it's worth paying a professional to do what's needed, so I may take it on as a DIY project. If any of the luthiers here have any thoughts, I'm all ears.
 
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