Vitazora
Well-known member
Another Bruko #6 Action Adjustment Thread
I recently picked up a Bruko #6, and like many, found its action up the neck to be higher than I could comfortably play. Since there are many threads asking how to do this, and many are hesitant to lower the bridge, I thought I would post my method and results. YMMV
I did refer to this older thread, especially post #11, which is the advice of H. Pfeiffer on how to lower the action.
http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/showthread.php?18682-Bruko-action-adjustment
Anyway, I decided to remove about 1.5-2 mm from the point on the bridge where the strings touch it with a "thin file" as in H. Pfeiffer's advice. I laid a strip of electrical tape along the front edge of the "saddle" to mark the depth I wanted to file to (after removing the strings of course
), and placed the ukulele on a bed of bubble wrap to cushion it and keep it from sliding around. I also covered the rest of the bridge with tape to protect it from any "accidents."
Unfortunately, I took no photos of the filing, but it took only a few minutes of careful planing to get to the proper height. I used 400 grit sandpaper to remove any file marks and then followed up with a tiny bit of Renaissance Wax on a Q-tip to blend and protect the exposed wood.
No buzzing anywhere, intonation is still spot-on. I also slightly widened the C string bridge slot as it was too narrow to take anything other than a Worth or Martin C string. I used 400 grit sandpaper folded around a very thin strip of steel to gently widen the slot.
I recently picked up a Bruko #6, and like many, found its action up the neck to be higher than I could comfortably play. Since there are many threads asking how to do this, and many are hesitant to lower the bridge, I thought I would post my method and results. YMMV
I did refer to this older thread, especially post #11, which is the advice of H. Pfeiffer on how to lower the action.
http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/showthread.php?18682-Bruko-action-adjustment
Anyway, I decided to remove about 1.5-2 mm from the point on the bridge where the strings touch it with a "thin file" as in H. Pfeiffer's advice. I laid a strip of electrical tape along the front edge of the "saddle" to mark the depth I wanted to file to (after removing the strings of course
), and placed the ukulele on a bed of bubble wrap to cushion it and keep it from sliding around. I also covered the rest of the bridge with tape to protect it from any "accidents."Unfortunately, I took no photos of the filing, but it took only a few minutes of careful planing to get to the proper height. I used 400 grit sandpaper to remove any file marks and then followed up with a tiny bit of Renaissance Wax on a Q-tip to blend and protect the exposed wood.
No buzzing anywhere, intonation is still spot-on. I also slightly widened the C string bridge slot as it was too narrow to take anything other than a Worth or Martin C string. I used 400 grit sandpaper folded around a very thin strip of steel to gently widen the slot.
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