Would you pay to have an inexpensive uke set up?

@Pukulele Pete: Before I got my new Martin ukes, I wasted a ton of cash ($90 a pop) bringing in cheaper ukes (bought at $150+) to get a proper "set-up" to a luthier and he had to move the bridge each time. Saddle compensation didn't help. I won't mention the brands here. I'm past that now but I agree with you!

@70sSanO: You give VERY, VERY good advice. Impressive. I've had the same experience with cheaper ukes and changed the strings and the intonation went "wacko" as well. Thanks for saying that.

@Rodney: You're totally right, but I was naïve back then in 2006-2010.

Pete
 
OP here.

Thanks to everyone for the advice. In particular, 70sSanO's sensible advice is really appreciated. My biggest or only problem with the learner's uke I have is the intonation is off starting at the second fret on two of the strings. And it seems filing the nut might fix that. So yeah, as some of you have advised, I might try to file the nut a bit myself, rather than paying someone to do it for me.

Incidentally, just to clear things up, as a few of you have misunderstood. The cheap uke I'm talking about is a no-name, all-laminate soprano. My "good uke" is the Ohana SK-38. I didn't hand over the SK-38 to my twin babies to play with. I was just thinking if I fix the intonation issue on the cheap uke, it could be my beater uke.
 
Go for it. Nuts and saddles are cheap and easy to replace, so file and sand away. Look for tips on YouTube, a noname uke is perfect to learn how to adjust intonation and action.
 
If you like the way it sounds, and it's comfortable to play then you probably don't need to worry about making permanent alterations. Assuming that your instrument was assembled more or less correctly, much of a professional setup is really just basic maintenance on your uke that you should be able to do at home.

You can always make permanent adjustments later, if it's still important to you. However, there's absolutely nothing wrong with having a professional setup simply because you want your instrument sound it's best. That's really all the justification you need, and if you feel comfortable spending the money then do it. There are no guarantees, but an honest luthier will tell you if you're wasting your money or not before even accepting the job.
 
Doesn't setup include intonation checking that could involve moving the bridge? That's not for beginners.

You can compensate it by making a new saddle.

I've managed to missplace my bridge on a soprano ukulele (the glue covered position marks and the bridge just slided away) resulting in having my scale shorter. Had to make kind of "L shaped" saddle to prolong the scale lenght.

I suggest he should just learn how to do the setup hiself on a cheap ukulele. A lot of guides and if you are careful and patient, even begginer can do that.
 
b
OP here.

Thanks to everyone for the advice. In particular, 70sSanO's sensible advice is really appreciated. My biggest or only problem with the learner's uke I have is the intonation is off starting at the second fret on two of the strings. And it seems filing the nut might fix that. So yeah, as some of you have advised, I might try to file the nut a bit myself, rather than paying someone to do it for me.

Incidentally, just to clear things up, as a few of you have misunderstood. The cheap uke I'm talking about is a no-name, all-laminate soprano. My "good uke" is the Ohana SK-38. I didn't hand over the SK-38 to my twin babies to play with. I was just thinking if I fix the intonation issue on the cheap uke, it could be my beater uke.

Filing the nut slots won't help intonation - the resulting distance difference is a millimeter, tops. Better to get decent quality strings and let them stabilize. If the inexpensive ukes still have the very inexpensive factory strings, it's a safe bet that may be the problem.

One more point - there is nothing wrong with having inexpensive ukes. Changing the strings and setting the action to a comfortable height has turned many a "sow's ear" uke into a decently sounding "silk purse" instrument. Don't get caught up in the "it has to cost a lot to be good" web. Usually a little care and maintenance can work wonders.
 
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Filing the nut slots won't help intonation - the resulting distance difference is a millimeter, tops. Better to get decent quality strings and let them stabilize. If the inexpensive ukes still have the very inexpensive factory strings, it's a safe bet that may be the problem.

Not quite true. I agree that a string change from cheap factory strings will help. It did with my first uke, but high action at the nut leads to going sharp when you fret at the first two or three frets, however careful you are not to press too hard on the string. Carefully filing the nut slots will make a big difference. I certainly found that on one uke.
 
I bought a Lanikai LU-21 for the grandkids to play. When I got home I realized that it was pretty much unlistenable. I was going to take it back but decided to get a setup on it. The setup cost $7 and it sounds great for what it is and the grandkids love it.
 
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