Lower the action on a Kamaka

paulfab4

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I just purchased a used Kamaka tenor with a Braggs pickup.
The action seems a little to high for me. Anyone have a suggestion on how to lower the action? Lighter gage strings. File down the saddle bone?
Thanks
Paul
 
What are the chances that a Kamaja has a nut that is too high? Being new to ukulele this past year and living in Minnesota/Wisconsin, I haven't even seen a Kamaka other than in pictures and video. However, as Kamaka is considered one of the highest end "production" ukuleles, I can see players wanting to customize saddle height, but I would suspect nut height would be pretty standard.

Then again, maybe I am wrong?

I'm working on saddle height on our school's very cheap Mahalo MK1s. Lots of sanding to get them down to 2.65mm at the 12th fret. Those instruments might benefit from lowered nut slots, too, but that is one thing I'd rather not mess with if I didn't have to!
 
However, as Kamaka is considered one of the highest end "production" ukuleles, I can see players wanting to customize saddle height, but I would suspect nut height would be pretty standard.

Then again, maybe I am wrong?

You're not wrong. I'm sure Kamakas are set to a certain height (plus tolerance) in the factory unless specified by the buyer. But this is a used Kamaka. We don't know how the geometry might have changed since that time, or whether the owner put an under-saddle pickup in, raised or replaced the saddle or whatever.

But more importantly, Paulfab4 said the action "seems a little to high for me", which I assume indicates a personal preference. I come from the guitar world where the question of action isn't about what's standard or right, but what the player wants. Where a full setup can't be done properly without understanding these preferences. And sometimes it's not even a fixed thing, it's about what feels right to that person, for that particular instrument, which may vary between their instruments.

So I say if it feels too high, it's too high. Sand/file it down. It's not rocket science - the worst that could happen is he ruins a saddle. If that's a concern, it might be prudent to buy a new cheap saddle, shape it to match the old one, take a bit off the bottom and see if it works. If it improves things, take the same amount off the original saddle.
 
For what it is worth I would say that if you are set on doing it yourself and you have not done this before...Make sure you sand the bottom of the saddle.... It is really not that hard ...if the problem is actually the saddle and nothing else...i.e. nut height, neck relief, neck angle, distorted neck, etc.

Also make sure before you do anything take complete measurements of the starting action (height from top of 12th fret to bottom of strings) and total saddle dimensions. If you have a uke you find to have a comfortable action, you can measure the action and compare. Then you have something to aim at. In fact it would be best since this is your first time to look over both and make note of the differences and be sure it isn't some other issue. But it is probably the saddle height

I agree the safe bet is to have a luthier look at it or get a saddle blank and make a copy to then lower for your first time....Though it's not rocket science, for some it can be a frustrating intro to the school of hard knocks when you realize there can be more to it and you just lost your reference back to where you started....Could be easy too....just thought I would mention it.

Here is a video that may help some.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adeFF0nQyzM
I think all players should have some basic knowledge about proper set up even if they never use it directly.

Either way have fun as that is what it is all about!
 
I just purchased a used Kamaka tenor with a Braggs pickup.
The action seems a little to high for me. Anyone have a suggestion on how to lower the action? Lighter gage strings. File down the saddle bone?
Thanks
Paul
What is your string height at the 12th fret?
 
I had never dared to work on any of my guitars in the past, but after dealing with a few flaky repairmen (I AM NOT SAYING THEY ARE ALL THAT WAY :)), and being without my instrument for more than a week only to get it back with the problem not fixed, I decided to give it a go myself on a few of my ukes. I actually raised the action by sanding/shaping a blank bone saddle for my Kamaka HF-3L. (I prefer high action to an instrument that goes out of tune as you go up the fretboard). Anyway, I just used some 180 grit sand paper. Then I got frisky and bought some nut files from Stewmac and decided to lower the action a hair at the nut. Long story short I went too deep and had to make a new bone nut using the same process and just copying the old model. Moral of my story, go easy on the sanding. Rather than ditching the strings that are on there now, just loosen them, remove the bridge and sand a bit, retune strings, let it settle and see how it plays. Better to have to do that a few times than to over do it, at which point you will have to start from scratch and build a new saddle. I say go for it and good luck!
 
But more importantly, Paulfab4 said the action "seems a little to high for me", which I assume indicates a personal preference. I come from the guitar world where the question of action isn't about what's standard or right, but what the player wants. Where a full setup can't be done properly without understanding these preferences. And sometimes it's not even a fixed thing, it's about what feels right to that person, for that particular instrument, which may vary between their instruments.

So I say if it feels too high, it's too high. Sand/file it down. It's not rocket science - the worst that could happen is he ruins a saddle. If that's a concern, it might be prudent to buy a new cheap saddle, shape it to match the old one, take a bit off the bottom and see if it works. If it improves things, take the same amount off the original saddle.
I agree 100%. I would not have someone set up a uke for me if they didn't ask me first how high I want it. I actually raised the action on one of my ukes that had been set up before it was shippped. Not because it buzzed or anything like that, I'm sure that it was very well set up, but because it was so low that it was too touchy for me. It isn't about a measurement, it is about the feel.
 
I am very fortunate to have the best guitar tech in town as a good friend. I just got my tenor back from him and he lowered the action at both ends - worked a little bit on the nut and a little bit on the bridge saddle. Not too much - just a hair on each end. He rarely lowers action by working on only one end or the other.
It plays like a dream now! No buzz anywhere even playing as hard as I ever will.
He didn't sand off the bottom of the bridge because he said it looked to him like someone else had already done that so, he took a little off the top. Apparently that's slightly trickier but, like I said, he's known around here as one of the best. I had him change the strings at the same time (Oasis GPX) and I love it!
My point: an experienced tech or luthier is WELL-WORTH the few dollars they will charge. Of course, my philosophy has always been to never let amateurs work on your good stuff. I'm not even at amateur status yet so, no way would I have done that.
 
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