nut width

Hi, how much does the nut width affect the playability? I have smaller fingers and reach. For instance, I have concerts with 1.375" nuts. I need to use my 5th finger to get the C melody note with a standard F cord (A and F). Trying to get my 4th on it is a huge stretch, and I can barely do it and not all the time.

Was looking at getting a concert 1.5 inch Kanilea. But the nut difference makes me wonder if I should just stick to the smaller nut widths.

There was a person here a while ago shopping for a ukulele based on a 1.5" nut width. This site was cited several times:

http://ukenut.com/comparison-of-ukulele-nut-widths/

What is funny is that the difference between 1.375" and 1.5" nuts is .125" of an inch. That really isn't that much space...but some manufacturers have different nut widths, and according to the recent Ukulele Site video from NAMM, new Kala Elites will be available with custom width nuts!

Except for my Opio, all my other instruments seem to have a 1.375" nut. The thing that makes the Pono slightly easier to play, I think, is the slight radius fretboard (still prefer the sound of the Opio a bit more).

I would like to play an instrument with a 1.5" nut and a radius fretboard.

Aside from the stretch between the frets on longer scales, the only difference in feel for me in nut width comes with 2 and 3 finger chords when all strings are fretted on the same fret as in a D-Maj chord with fingers 1,2,3 all on top of each other (2220 in TAB).

Due to both fat fingers and hand problems now, on soprano this is nearly impossible for me to get all 3 fingers stacked inside the space between the 1st and 2nd fret without the side of my fingertip hanging over the edge of the second fret and slightly muting the string, thus I use an alternate fingering, which is like making a barre chord of the C chord shape and moving it up 2 frets, which is 2225 in tab, and only require energy being applied with 2 fingers, pointer for the barre across the 222 and pinky for the 5. Works well for me.

Longer scales may make this easier, but on concert and tenor I still use the same chord shape for a D-Maj chord.

The 1.375" is about the standard nut width for most ukes, and sometimes sopranos are narrower than that, and usually baritones are standard with the 1.5" nut width.

Smaller (thinner) fingers may allow you to stack them more easily as mentioned in the 2220 D-Maj chord, but if they are too short to reach comfortably, there are exercises you can do to extend your reach, otherwise you can look at soprano or concert ukes with a narrower nut.

You did not mention what scale length (size) uke you are playing, but if soprano is still a problem you can go smaller to sopranino, sopranissimo and piccolo ukes, all of which are shorter scale length.

Hope this helps

I agree with Booli nut width affects my ability to fit three fingers close together as in Dmaj chord or trying to fret three strings with one finger (2nd position Fmaj 5553) more than a reach for 2013 where I also usually use my pinky for the C note and scale length has more of an impact.

When I started out my hands wouldn't stretch out over the chords, but after a little time they loosened up, allowing me to make the chord shapes better.
So if you are just starting out, it will just take a little bit of time whilst your hands muscles adjust.

islanders are the cheapest ukuleles that offer 1.5" nuts. I have large hands. more precisely very large fingernails and fingertip pads. Stacking is impossible on 1.375 and near impossible on 1.5" as well. Practice always helps. I did find that having a wide nut ukulele helped me with playing the super narrow nut ukes.

I always use my ring finger for the 3102 F/C chord or for the 3101 (F something oops!) chord. Bad habits from playing too much soprano I guess. Baritone scale makes me play a bit more honestly but tires my fretting hand out (being double jointed really sucks).

Thanks all. I guess if I were to get a 1.5 inch nut-sized concert then the action would have to be low to make it work. Still figuring things out... My 1.375" wide Kala tenor has a high action and is hard to get chords in for me. I will probably go for a Kanilea and try it.

In my limited exposure to Kanile'a the action has been consistently low and they are easy to play on.

Actually I don't think nut width is the most important measure here. String spacing (space from G to A string) is what matters - after all your fingers need to reach out from string 1 to string 4.

Quite often a simple change of posture can help already: point the ukulele neck upwards in approx 45° angle with the headstock being more or less on level with your fretting shoulder; use a strap when necessary. This will give you a much better angle and reach in your fretting hand, you don't lose reach by bending your wrist that much. (And you won't be tempted to use your thumb for fretting).

Booli said:

D-Maj chord with fingers 1,2,3 all on top of each other (2220 in TAB).

Due to both fat fingers and hand problems now, on soprano this is nearly impossible for me to get all 3 fingers stacked inside the space between the 1st and 2nd fret

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There is no need for three fingers, try a part barre instead, e.g. with first joint of index finger fretting G and C strings and middle finger on E.
And again (sorry for nitpicking): the important bit is not to get your fingers inside the space between frets 1 and 2. The important bit is to fret G C E strings on fret 2. Whether some fingers end up touching the nut or the space between nut and fret 1 does not affect anything.

I don't feel any difference between 1 3/8" and 1 1/2". But, I'm pretty sloppy with my fretting and with the 1 1/2", I seem better able to fret one string without interfering with another. If you're highly skilled, it probably makes no difference.
Watch Corey Fujimoto go from one instrument to another. No prob.

I also don't notice the difference between 1 3/8" and 1 1/2". I had many ukes with 1 3/8" nuts, then bought a KoAloha with a 1 1/2" nut. I played the KoAloha for at least 6 months before realizing there was a difference in nut width. Differences in the shape and thickness of the neck are much more noticeable to me.

For me nut with is important, like any instrument you play, if you play enough on different instruments you start discovering what you like and what you don't like, what feels comfortable and what just bugs you every time you play that instrument.

YarraJoe said:

For me nut with is important, like any instrument you play, if you play enough on different instruments you start discovering what you like and what you don't like, what feels comfortable and what just bugs you every time you play that instrument.

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Thus feeds my UAS!! I want to get one of each and compare. Not sure if I have found my holy grail of ukes. Will need to keep comparing.

valde002 said:

Thus feeds my UAS!! I want to get one of each and compare. Not sure if I have found my holy grail of ukes. Will need to keep comparing.

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Hahah good excuse. Personally I found my holy grail when I had Allen at Barron River build me a 38mm nut width (10mm string spacing) on my long neck concert. His string spacing at the bridge I didn't change I just added 2mm to his standard nut width based on what I wanted from all the ukes I've played and own. Think he had a few comments about the nut width when he showed pictures on here, but as the client I can attest that it's just right for me and that's really what it's about. I'm having the same nut width on the Baritone I've commissioned from him too.