What do I check for when buying a used ukulele?

Lowla

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I'm going to go check out a used kala ka-asac-tge-c ukulele.
I would appreciate advice on what to check for. I figure I can check for any phyisical issues (dents, marks, sharp frets) and check each string/fret for buzz and sound.Anything else I should check for?
The owner says that the local ukulele shop (who I'd rather buy from but doesn't have anything I'm looking for in stock) has checked it over, lowered the action and put new strings on. I have spoken to this shop owner many times and he really knows his stuff. He wouldn't hesitate to tell someone if something is wrong. I simply don't have his experience or knowledge to know what to look for for stuff like a twisted neck, or bowing in the body of the uke. Is this kind of thing discernible to the naked eye? I can see the defects when he points them out to me, but I'm not sure I can do that on my own!
Any advice on checking this uke out would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
 
This is a GREAT question, and the strategy should be a FAQ (Barry Maz...I see a post opportunity)

1) Check body for cracks
2) Check body for finish issues (these impact resale, not playability)
3) Look for dents/dings (again, resale vs. playability)
4) Check neck for extreme curvature
5) When tuned, check that the tuners hold intonation
6) If missing strings, insist on strings on the ukulele
7) Check for buzzes on individual strings
8) Check for buzzes with chords
9) Check fret ends for sharpness (treatable, but can give you an idea about how the instrument was cared for)
10) Observe condition of case
11) Observe condition of included accessories including extra strings, tuner, humidifiers, string wonders, etc.
12) Do research before seeing the ukulele; know current value, original value...and consider that a used value is often 15%-30% or more off original pricing.

And most importantly: ask yourself, does this ukulele make me happy
 
I would say that the most important thing to do is play it - that's about the quickest way to find out if there are any issues with action, intonation, buzzing, neck warp etc.

As far as purely observational things go - I would check to see what condition the fretboard is in. If the uke has not been properly looked after it might have dried out.
 
Wow, thanks for such a detailed post! I'm happy to say I think I did all those things when I went to see it a while ago. It looked great! It is a beautiful instrument and was exactly what I wanted. Unfortunately it did not sound good at all. No volume, no sustain -nothing. I was so disappointed! My laminate tenor uke sounds better! We brought my moms solid mahogany to compare to and it was shocking how poor this uke sounded against the mahogany one.
I'm just glad I actually got to try it first!
I am going to print and save this post so I have it as I continue to look for a new uke!
 
Thanks! It didn't seem to have any noticeable issues, it just had no projection, sustain or volume. I don't know why. Strings were new, and I tuned it. I played all the strings at all the frets and it seemed fine, just no tone. I'm not sure but I wonder if was the wood. The seller didn't know but according to my research this model is solid acacia.
Thanks for your insights, very helpful!
 
This is a GREAT question, and the strategy should be a FAQ (Barry Maz...I see a post opportunity)

1) Check body for cracks
2) Check body for finish issues (these impact resale, not playability)
3) Look for dents/dings (again, resale vs. playability)
4) Check neck for extreme curvature
5) When tuned, check that the tuners hold intonation
6) If missing strings, insist on strings on the ukulele
7) Check for buzzes on individual strings
8) Check for buzzes with chords
9) Check fret ends for sharpness (treatable, but can give you an idea about how the instrument was cared for)
10) Observe condition of case
11) Observe condition of included accessories including extra strings, tuner, humidifiers, string wonders, etc.
12) Do research before seeing the ukulele; know current value, original value...and consider that a used value is often 15%-30% or more off original pricing.

And most importantly: ask yourself, does this ukulele make me happy

Great list!

In addition (based on hard knocks' experience) - bring a chromatic tuner with you when checking the uke. Also,

a. Check tuners - Are they loose? Do they bind when turning?
b. Nut - Are the slots too tight/loose for the strings (especially the #4 if low-G)

If there is a pickup installed:
c. Shake the uke - Does it rattle? (if it does, why?)
d. Saddle - If under-the-saddle wired, is the installation clean and neat, or messy? (messy could mean other problems)
e. Intonation - If under-the-saddle wired, check intonation. (errors in installation could have saddle too high/low)
f. Output - Does the pickup really work? If yes, are all strings coming through clean and equal?
 
Bring a decent tuner and tune the open strings to their respective pitches. Then hold down each string in the 12th fret and check if it's the same note (just an octave higher) as the open string. How much sharpness or flatness is acceptable is an individual choice. For me, it would be 5% at most.
 
Good thread. I still have my first two used ukuleles. One is a Kay soprano that I bought at a second hand store. Had no real strings and a gap between the sides and the top where the glue had given way. Figured it would be an easy fix. One tuner ended up not turning, and I have never gotten around to changing it or gluing the gap. It is in a suitcase in a closet along with the second ukulele, which was an eBay treasure. I truly bought it for the cool decal. It is handmade, and interesting, but does not play below the third fret. So, lesson learned for me, and the other used ukuleles have been from here on UU, or Antebellum Instruments.
 
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