Tenor suggestions wanted

StigW

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In the market for new tenor uke. Spec is surprisingly hard to meet.

Must haves:
1. Wider neck (38mm or thereabouts)
2. Cutaway
3. 20 frets (yes I do occasionally play up there)
4. Pickup
5. 3 digit price

Prefer volume control and EQ built in but not essential.

Don't care about materials, finishes, bindings, soundhole shapes and positions, nuts, markings, whatever. It will get played, not looked at.

For reference I have a Kala baritone (fine) and an Ashbury concert (cheap and cheerful).

Thanks in advance.
 
Agree with an external DI/pre-amp box. Never have to worry about built-in eq again. I got the Behringer ADI-21. Great for the money unless you want to spend 3 numbers for a high-end
one.
 
Kanile'a Islander AT-CUT-EQ comes close. It's 18 fret though.

Specs:
Solid Asian Acacia front, back and sides
18 Silver-Nickel Frets
Fret position Marks at 5th,7th,10th and 12th frets
Rosewood Fingerboard and Bridge with nickel fret wire
Rosewood binding and gusset
Black Bridge Pins
Mahogany neck
Satin Finish
NuBone nut and saddle
Chrome Geared Tuners with Black Buttons (14:1 turning ratio)
Aquila strings
17" Tenor Scale (Distance from Nut to Saddle)
1-1/2" (38mm) Nut width
Kanile'a Active Undersaddle Piezo Pickup w/Onboard control and built in tuner



http://www.southernukulelestore.co.uk/Product/1702/
 
Kala KAATP-CTG-CE, I think mine is terrific for $370.

Kala KAATP-CTG-CE 2.jpg
 
Most of my tenors have 19 frets. Are you firm on that 20th fret? I often play high on the neck and occasionally over the fretboard, but I don't yet play a song that requires the 20th fret.

In fairness, it was the top E (19th fret) I found myself playing yesterday (and frightening off the local dogs).
 
except that I dislike on-uke controls, so my Ponos have MiSi pickups instead. (For controls, I'd rather use an amp or DI box—.)

I have little experience of playing plugged, though expecting more. How do you easily turn up volume for a solo and down after?
 
The aNueNue Moon Bird UT200 meets all requirements (38mm nut, 20 frets), except the price. With the pickup you'd be looking at probably $1100 in the US.
 
Thanks ubulele, valuable info, though perhaps I should have started a different thread on volume controls.
 
"Ground lift" - what is it, and why/when would we use it?

. (My DI box also has switches ... to "ground lift", a concept I still don't grasp.)

Allow me to explain "ground lift", or "earth lift", as it is known outside N. America :)

Long story short: you should only ever have one item of grounded/earthed equipment in your audio setup (be that stage amplification, or home audio). Every other item of equipment needs to run to ground via that one piece of kit.

'Why?!' I hear you cry. 'And what's this got to do with 'ground lift?!!'

Well, if more than one grounded/earthed items are connected together, a loop is created amongst the ground/earth wires (aka shield wires), via the ground/earth itself (see diagram):

Fig3BartlettHumRFI.jpg


or in real life:

Pic_6.jpg


Once that loop is made, it forms a (potential) induction loop: it starts generating a current (just like as in a transformer). The source of that induced current is the AC input. So if your AC reverses polarity at 50Hz(60Hz), you will get a 50Hz(60Hz) current induced in your ground loop. Now, while this induced current operates at very low power (not nearly enough to blow a fuse, after all), it is still powerful enough to create a 50Hz(60Hz) hum in your audio signal - the dreaded 'earth hum'.

The solution to the problem is simple, if seemingly hazardous (it's not hazardous at all, btw, just seemingly so). 'Lift' (i.e., 'remove) every single ground/earth connection but one from your audio setup (what's known as Star grounding).

In the old days, this would involve disassembling equipment or plugs, finding the ground/earth lead and pulling it out. We would always, where possible, leave the ground/earth lead poking out of the equipment so that everyone could see that its ground/earth had been lifted (particularly important from a safety point of view on mains power extension leads!).

These days, audio kit often comes supplied with a 'ground lift' switch, so 1) you don't have to disassemble the kit to lift the earth, and 2) no need to leave a piece of wire dangling through the housing! So this is what your 'ground lift' switch is for - to help eliminate ground hum (I say 'help', because figuring out where actually the ground loop has formed is very often a matter of much trial and even more error. Toggling the ground lift switch is very often only the first step of very many!).

Which single item to leave earthed? We would always choose the single most powerful amp in the rig - and come the end of the evening, this would always be the last item to be powered down and disconnected (so we'd go in a sequence: mixing board; fx racks, guitar amps, monitor amps, PA amps, grounded amp(s)).

Further reading:
UNDERSTANDING, FINDING & ELIMINATING GROUND LOOPS
Advice on setting up a hum-free safe PA system

Author's note: redpaul1 spent most of the '80s paying his way through grad school by doing sound and lights for rock'n'roll bands, including, The Bangles, Blur, Butthole Surfers, Dinosaur Junior, Einstuerzende Neubauten, Happy Mondays, Henry Rollins, Hole, Humphrey Lyttelton Big Band, Inspiral Carpets, Julian Cope, L7, Lush, Lydia Lunch, My Bloody Valentine, Napalm Death, New Order, Sandi Shaw, Sonic Youth, Swans, They Might Be Giants, Tom Robinson, Wilco Johnson and many more...
He gave up rock'n'roll to go work for the UN on human rights. :)
 
So coming back to the original query, there's not a single instrument on the market that meets my requirements?
 
Thanks again, ubulele. Looks like the Cordobas might be the ones - not sure any of the others would work (or are available). I will now go quiet until I find one to try.
 
If you're looking at Cordoba also take a look at the 24t-CE. It has a solid cedar top and laminate sides/back. I wanted to get one but the wider nut was a deal breaker for me. I prefer a more narrow nut width.
As far as I know the Cordobas have 18 frets though.
 
Not sure it meets all of your criteria but a great price if you can still get one...https://www.elderly.com/kala-ka-srt-ctg-e-comfort-edge-tenor-ukulele-with-eq.htm

In the market for new tenor uke. Spec is surprisingly hard to meet.

Must haves:
1. Wider neck (38mm or thereabouts)
2. Cutaway
3. 20 frets (yes I do occasionally play up there)
4. Pickup
5. 3 digit price

Prefer volume control and EQ built in but not essential.

Don't care about materials, finishes, bindings, soundhole shapes and positions, nuts, markings, whatever. It will get played, not looked at.

For reference I have a Kala baritone (fine) and an Ashbury concert (cheap and cheerful).

Thanks in advance.
 
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