Friction Peg Tuner Adjustment

Fuzzbass

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Just looking for some help in adjusting the friction peg tuners on my Soprano Uke. They are very highly geared with the slightest movement sending the tuning way off. I'm having trouble deciding which way to go with the adjustment screws. Has anyone got a "knack" to adjusting these tuners. They are good Grover tuners.
 
I've only got one uke with friction tuners, you just have to ease it into tune, by that I mean just add pressure to the tuner, don't give it a twist.
 
Fuzz, what I generally do with the frictions, as a preliminary, is to try to get a feel for an optimal "tightness" of the four adjustment screws. I'll take my screwdriver, slowly turn counter-clockwise to loosen each screw just to the threshhold where the peg wants to start rotating backwards by itself, and then give the screw just enough of a clockwise turn to keep the peg from starting that backwards rotation; once you have all four pegs at that "almost-too-loose" threshold, go back and give each adjustment screw a little more of a clockwise turn, just to the point where it's clear that each peg will hold firmly. After a while, you'll be able to feel the sensation of having each adjustment screw tightened to approximately equal tightness. Sometimes I'll come back and re-check just to see if the resistance seems about equal on each screw when I apply the screwdriver; if one screw turns too easily compared to the others, I'll give it a little extra boost (tighter). You want the pegs to be a little tight (firm) to turn, but not ridiculously so. Then, as for doing your actual tuning of the uke, I've had good luck beginning with a slight "reverse" turn of the peg to flatten the note first, which seems to provide a nice pivot from which to then give it a "forward" turn to slowly bring it up to the desired pitch. Often the friction pegs can be tricky to fine-tune from their "resting" position, so that initial little pivot (with the slight flattening) comes in handy. It's definitely an inexact science, but after a while you'll kind of develop your own personal approach!
 
Tuning peg adjustments...

Fuzz, what I generally do with the frictions, as a preliminary, is to try to get a feel for an optimal "tightness" of the four adjustment screws. I'll take my screwdriver, slowly turn counter-clockwise to loosen each screw just to the threshhold where the peg wants to start rotating backwards by itself, and then give the screw just enough of a clockwise turn to keep the peg from starting that backwards rotation; once you have all four pegs at that "almost-too-loose" threshold, go back and give each adjustment screw a little more of a clockwise turn, just to the point where it's clear that each peg will hold firmly. After a while, you'll be able to feel the sensation of having each adjustment screw tightened to approximately equal tightness. Sometimes I'll come back and re-check just to see if the resistance seems about equal on each screw when I apply the screwdriver; if one screw turns too easily compared to the others, I'll give it a little extra boost (tighter). You want the pegs to be a little tight (firm) to turn, but not ridiculously so. Then, as for doing your actual tuning of the uke, I've had good luck beginning with a slight "reverse" turn of the peg to flatten the note first, which seems to provide a nice pivot from which to then give it a "forward" turn to slowly bring it up to the desired pitch. Often the friction pegs can be tricky to fine-tune from their "resting" position, so that initial little pivot (with the slight flattening) comes in handy. It's definitely an inexact science, but after a while you'll kind of develop your own personal approach!

Thats brilliant. Thanks all. They hold tuning perfectly so I will loosen them off a bit then tighten. Just what I needed, I can always rely on getting helpful answers here :)
 
Fuzz, what I generally do with the frictions, as a preliminary, is to try to get a feel for an optimal "tightness" of the four adjustment screws. I'll take my screwdriver, slowly turn counter-clockwise to loosen each screw just to the threshhold where the peg wants to start rotating backwards by itself, and then give the screw just enough of a clockwise turn to keep the peg from starting that backwards rotation; once you have all four pegs at that "almost-too-loose" threshold, go back and give each adjustment screw a little more of a clockwise turn, just to the point where it's clear that each peg will hold firmly. After a while, you'll be able to feel the sensation of having each adjustment screw tightened to approximately equal tightness. Sometimes I'll come back and re-check just to see if the resistance seems about equal on each screw when I apply the screwdriver; if one screw turns too easily compared to the others, I'll give it a little extra boost (tighter). You want the pegs to be a little tight (firm) to turn, but not ridiculously so. Then, as for doing your actual tuning of the uke, I've had good luck beginning with a slight "reverse" turn of the peg to flatten the note first, which seems to provide a nice pivot from which to then give it a "forward" turn to slowly bring it up to the desired pitch. Often the friction pegs can be tricky to fine-tune from their "resting" position, so that initial little pivot (with the slight flattening) comes in handy. It's definitely an inexact science, but after a while you'll kind of develop your own personal approach!

Thank you Bill! This is the most detailed written explanation I have ever seen on dealing with friction tuners. It is mostly what I do with mine, so I appreciate the affirmation, because I have always wondered if I was really doing it "right". I find friction tuners hold well, but I think mine could benefit from the occasional "reset". This could be a forum "sticky". Thanks so much.
 
You're welcome, guys. And this is probably one of those areas where there's not necessarily a right or a wrong way, but rather we all kind of figure out what works best for us, after a ton of tinkering, and trial and error! Just one additional thought... I keep a specific screwdriver handy just for "uke usage", and maybe once a week I'll do a "status" on those friction pegs just to see if they seem to still be uniformly snug and holding things securely. -Bill
 
All great advice. A little something else I do is leave an inch or more tail of string at the peg rather than crop them right back. This tail acts as a visual indicator of how much (or little) the peg is being turned. I find it especially useful when turning back after overshooting.
 
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