Worn out bridge/saddle slot

Trader Todd

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I've got a late 60's(?) Martin soprano and the saddle slot on the bridge has worn so badly that the string won't stay in, no matter how big I make the knot.

I'm looking for suggestions on a repair. I don't really want to replace the whole bridge, I'm thinking more like using some super glue, liquid nails or something to fill it in and then file out the slot for the string. It doesn't need much, just something to beef it up and support the string tension.

Here are some poor pics. My phone doesn't do macro well.


IMG_20170410_174505.jpgIMG_20170410_174549.jpg
 
The fixes you suggest will not work. The best solution is to replace the bridge. You don't want to do that so I would suggest is to make the bridge the string through type, and use a bead on the string. If you don't know what that type of bridge is, google it.

I've got a late 60's(?) Martin soprano and the saddle slot on the bridge has worn so badly that the string won't stay in, no matter how big I make the knot.

I'm looking for suggestions on a repair. I don't really want to replace the whole bridge, I'm thinking more like using some super glue, liquid nails or something to fill it in and then file out the slot for the string. It doesn't need much, just something to beef it up and support the string tension.

Here are some poor pics. My phone doesn't do macro well.


View attachment 101099View attachment 101100
 
I've seen successful (and even quite lovely) repairs using a piece of inlaid hardwood. You'd need very good skills to pull it off yourself. Otherwise, BlackBearUkes has given you your best solution.
An aside:
If you want to try the super glue or liquid nails idea, I can save you time and effort. Throw the instrument out first. You'd surely have to afterwards.
 
Thanks for the insights. Where could I find a matching bridge replacement? I imagine it would be tough to find one with a good match to the finish.
 
As BlackBearUkes said above, adapt your bridge to a string-thru-top bridge. Use a small size drill bit that will just fit in the slot(s). Drill through the top at the saddle end of the slots on all 4 slots. Use a piece of metal with a small hole on top of the bridge to keep the drill collet from hitting the bridge when the bit goes through. When you are done, you will not be able to tell that the bridge has been modified and you still have the original bridge. Easy-peasey...!!!
 
As BlackBearUkes said above, adapt your bridge to a string-thru-top bridge. Use a small size drill bit that will just fit in the slot(s). Drill through the top at the saddle end of the slots on all 4 slots. Use a piece of metal with a small hole on top of the bridge to keep the drill collet from hitting the bridge when the bit goes through. When you are done, you will not be able to tell that the bridge has been modified and you still have the original bridge. Easy-peasey...!!!

Yes yes and yes to this suggestion. You then stick the string through into the body, fish it out the sound hole, tie a double or triple knot (small beads work great for extra piece of mind) pull tight, then the other end to the tuning peg of course.
 
Trader Todd, a picture is worth a thousand words as the old saying goes. The string through was the only method in the days of harp building. The improvement in the timbre and the nuances will amaze your ears as the salesman would say.String_thru_IMG_7414.jpg
PS: Also see post #6 from WhenDogsSing.
 
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String thru bridge it is. Just to be clear, I'm drilling through the top of the uke between the bridge slot and not through the thickness of the bridge? Recommended drill bit size 1/16? Recommended beads - the actual string tying beads or just a plain old craft type bead?
 
Todd , try the bead first, see if it works. You just need a bead with a diameter wider than the slot. I keep a small bead on the A string of most of my ukes. That narrow string even with a good
knot can sometimes squeeze its way out , resulting in the split/wide slot . Good Luck.
 
String thru bridge it is. Just to be clear, I'm drilling through the top of the uke between the bridge slot and not through the thickness of the bridge? Recommended drill bit size 1/16? Recommended beads - the actual string tying beads or just a plain old craft type bead?

I was looking at your first post and the pictures. I see you don't have too much wood between the saddle and the part of the string slot closest to it. If it was me I would drill down into the bridge at the point where the string just leaves the slot and then comes up towards the saddle. You will be careful with your drill bit and keep it tight at the end of the slot closest to the saddle. You don't want the drill bit to wander on you. Any craft bead is good, tie a reef knot or a figure of eight knot around the bead. Slow and steady Trader Todd. Good luck.
 
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String thru bridge it is. Just to be clear, I'm drilling through the top of the uke between the bridge slot and not through the thickness of the bridge? Recommended drill bit size 1/16? Recommended beads - the actual string tying beads or just a plain old craft type bead?

'Tis Jim again Todd, I had to go look after my 88 year old sweetheart for a wee while. I took a couple of shots for Nickie on another thread and here they are again for you. If you look closely you will see in the first shot shows the original holes in the bridge where the tie bridge method was used.Tie-bridge-&-stringthrough_.jpg
The other shots show the drill bit sizes I use.
Drill-bit-sizes_IMG_7421.jpgOriginal-tie-bridge-holes_I.jpg
 

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