No worries - glad to help.
I should also mention that fellow UU brother SteveZ gave me a tip about taking a standard GCEA set and reversing the G and C strings order so you get CGEA, and this lets you test out a flavor of the sound without piecing together a string set on your own...
Starting with a NEW string set, and when you install the strings, ONLY tune up and NOT PAST D4 on the E string, otherwise if going past the D4 note, or using a set of strings already settled and tuning down, your 'D' string is going to be floppy from having settled to tension at a higher pitch, and in my experience, intonation is going to be at least 15 cents sharp after about the 4th-5th fret and worse up to the 12th fret....and on a 3mm wide saddle, there is simply not enough physical space to compensate the breakpoint of the strings to account for the +15 cents intonation...
- re-entrant G4-C4-E4-A4 strings give you a re-entrant C4-G4-D4-A4, and if you fret 2200 on these strings you get a D-5 chord, and the 4 and 2 strings are unisons, and the 3 and 1 strings are unisons....
- linear or low-G, G3-C4-E4-A4 string sets give you a nicer tone of still re-entrant C4-G3-D4-A4, and is more uke-like to play with the 4th string being able to participate in melody lines, and instead of the chord root being on the 4th string in a lower octave, with the higher octave C4, you get a feeling and sound like it's the third in the scale being the lowest pitched note in the chord, (depending upon chord shape), so by default you are playing an inverted chord when using the 4th string in a triad with only strings 4,3,2,...
I know lots of this re-entrant fifths tuning probably is considered blasphemy by mando, bouzouki and cittern players, but I am not one to conform to convention
'just because that's the way it's always been done', I do what works for me, as per my needs.
Traditionalists have merit of course, but I chose not to follow that path right now.
Were it not for the extreme cost of even the cheapest steel-string cousins of the soprano uke, I might have gotten a vihuela, jarana, or cuatro so as to have a short-scale mando-tuned single course instrument, but putting steel strings on a soprano uke will basically kill it. In my own tests, by the time you approach enough string tension to intonate properly on a 14" scale length, you are going to see EXTREME bridge rotation since the top is not braced for that much tension, AND you also need to have a slanted saddle, or floating bridge (like a banjo bridge or mando bridge) so you can properly align for intonation, which IMHO is simply impossible on a bridge that is parallel to the nut.
These other Portuguese and similar steel string instruments are braced and built heavier, such that you CAN in fact have the saddle parallel to the nut and have about 26lbs of tension in each string to intonate tuned in both 4ths and fifths tunings.
If you put steel strings on a soprano, most of which are built for no more than about 30 lbs of maximum TOTAL string tension, and the set of strings you'd need to approximate decent intonation is going to be about 100lbs of tension, I will almost guarantee you that the instrument will simply collapse and implode, likely within about 15 minutes of being tuned to concert pitch.
There are some YT vids of folks putting steel strings on soprano, but intonation is likely to be very poor if playable at all, only in first position chords, and none of those folks have a follow-up video afterwards, so I expect that the uke eventually imploded or they realized that it wont work long-term and out of shame, never said anything about it again. I am happy to be proven wrong...
But again, all of this is just IMHO, and I am wide open to learn and correct any mistakes or faulty conclusions, so please dont hesitate to educate me if you know better, as I am all for it.