1.5 inch neck.

I have a couple of each. When asked if I can feel the difference, I have to say no. But, I find the 1.5 easier. So There is definitely a difference, though I cannot feel it. Up to you to figure it out.
 
As I noted above, nut width doesn't necessarily correlate well to string spacing—and the spacing isn't consistent even over models from the same maker. There is as much variation in string spacing on standard nut ukes as between standard- and wider-nut models; sometimes the spacing on wider models is the same as or even less than on standard ones, as my measurements above demonstrated. This makes the opinions many people voice about wider-nut ukes quite dubious.

I believe that folks are reacting mostly according to their expectations of how it should feel. It is also more likely that the difference they attribute to the wider nut is actually due to an unrelated wider fan-out at the saddle, which alters the string spacing more significantly when moving up the neck. The saddle spread depends far more on the brand than on whether the instrument has a standard or wider nut. Folks may also be reacting to unrelated factors, like neck thickness or even action; they attribute any difference to the wider nut because it's the only advertised, obvious difference. Sadly, the factors which matter more are rarely spec'd. Experiences also vary according to playing approach: for instance, neck cradlers are more likely to feel a difference in nut width, whatever the string spacing, but they're hardly ones to take advice from on feel or good ergonomics. So, take what most people say about wider nuts with a huge dose of salt.

The good news is that if you have a wider-nut model, you can always have the nut replaced with one cut for either a wider or narrower string spacing, to suit.

No worries ubu, you bring up some very good points.

I've seen on some of my sopranos, all with a 34-35mm nut that the string spacing varies. The Martin 0XK, being wider than my Makala Ukadelic Tie-Dye, and the Makala was wider than the cheapie Mahalo or Melokia sopranos as well.

I had measured them all once with digital calipers, but did not write down the string span measurement, but recall that the Martin and the Uakdelic felt more comfortable than the other two, so I can confirm first-hand that what you describe about the string-span and string-to-string spacing at the nut varies...

Also, I have a Lanikai LU21B baritone that the string spacing at the bridge is only about 11mm between strings, and on my Makala KA-B baritone, the spacing is 15mm.

My Fluke and Flea ukes are all 14mm at the bridge in this regard. Using fingernails, I find wider spacing at the bridge is more comfortable to play fingerstyle and campanella.
 
The good news is that if you have a wider-nut model, you can always have the nut replaced with one cut for either a wider or narrower string spacing, to suit.

I'm new to playing and like the sound of a tenor more than a concert. Would putting on a new nut moving the strings closer together really affect whether or not you can reach barre chords, etc? Aren't you still reaching across the same width across fretboard and the same space between frets? I have really small hands (under 6" from wrist to tip of middle finger).
 
Well, no luck on any Loprinzi or Kala Elite concert ukes at the Salt Lake uke jam today. About 50 people at the jam, and no one had either of them. There is a person with a Loprinzi, but he wasn't there today, and he has a baritone.

I think my Teton concert has a pretty slim neck, so that gives me an idea on the Loprinzi or the Kala Elite slim neck model. I think that sticking a capo on the second or third fret of my Islander tenor might mimic the Kala Elite with the 1.5 inch neck in a very general way. Slim chance that I'll find a Kala Elite or Loprinzi concert to test drive, unless I stumble across a local owner by accident. I'll save up my money and give some more thought to what will work for me.
 
The good news is that if you have a wider-nut model, you can always have the nut replaced with one cut for either a wider or narrower string spacing, to suit.

I wouldn't do this. The strings are spaced at the bridge, as they are at the nut, for a wider neck. So, the strings would not be parallel to the edges of the neck. This may cause no difficulties, although it may. You might wish to set up an instrument this way and it may work okay. But it will never be optimal. I will choose one or the other for each instrument.
 
Wouldn't the change of angle be infinitesimal?
 
Just measured some of my ukes as this thread got me curious. My Koaloha tenor measured 1.5. My cheap Kmise tenor 1 3/8. The string spacing is exactly the same at the nut, 3/8. The Koaloha just has more at the sides, which I like, it helps prevent roll off. A vintage Sherwood [Gretch] soprano also has a 1.5 neck [almost] with the same string spacing.
 
I wouldn't do this. The strings are spaced at the bridge, as they are at the nut, for a wider neck. So, the strings would not be parallel to the edges of the neck. This may cause no difficulties, although it may. You might wish to set up an instrument this way and it may work okay. But it will never be optimal. I will choose one or the other for each instrument.

I see your point and yes, it's correct to be cautious. However in practice the best way forward isn't necessarily to stay with 'as built' and 'as built' configurations vary both in accuracy and design features; 'as built' might be more about looks and standards than possible performance so it's validity for your use is worth questioning.

My Kala KA-P has a replacement nut fitted with the strings spaced out to 30mm there, that change has been totally problem free and made that Uke more enjoyable for me to use.
 
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Wouldn't the change of angle be infinitesimal?

Yes, I even said in my post that "This may cause no difficulties..." but ask your luthier if he/she calculates these measurements precisely. I'm sure the builders want the strings and the fret board edges to taper in parallel.
The point of my post was that you can do it, but it ain't right. I won't.
 
Just measured some of my ukes as this thread got me curious. My Koaloha tenor measured 1.5. My cheap Kmise tenor 1 3/8. The string spacing is exactly the same at the nut, 3/8. The Koaloha just has more at the sides, which I like, it helps prevent roll off. A vintage Sherwood [Gretch] soprano also has a 1.5 neck [almost] with the same string spacing.

That is an interesting observation.I wonder how many people are playing a uke with a 1.5" neck because they think that they are getting more space for their fingers, but really aren't ?
 
That is an interesting observation.I wonder how many people are playing a uke with a 1.5" neck because they think that they are getting more space for their fingers, but really aren't ?

Good question. I dont have an answer :) Reminds me of the phrase 'perception is reality'...
 
That is an interesting observation.I wonder how many people are playing a uke with a 1.5" neck because they think that they are getting more space for their fingers, but really aren't ?
This question can be answered by a set of calipers, which are very affordable.
Maybe we should start a data base?
 
I did a quick measure with a measuring tape. Not as precise as calibers, but ballpark. The string spacing on my 1.5 inch nut tenor and my 1 3/8 concert are the same at the 1 fret and 5th fret. Must be the overall size difference from concert to tenor that made me "feel" like the spacing was wider???? Perception vs reality.....interesting!
 
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I did a quick measure with a measuring tape. Not as precise as calibers, but ballpark. The string spacing on my 1.5 inch nut tenor and my 1 3/8 concert are the same at the 1 fret and 5th fret. Must be the overall size difference from concert to tenor that made me "feel" like the spacing was wider???? Perception vs reality.....interesting!

yes - maybe there's some kind of magic spell or hypnotic effect from the bling of a certain uke being so 'shiny' that the visuals can convince us that everything else is 'improved'... like a specific kind of confirmation bias...
 
....

After looking at the various metrics involved, I know this is surely the case, for myself as well as others. The impact on "reach" gets particularly over-exaggerated: even with small hands, it's at most a 6% increase, more usually 3-4%; while those same folks overlook the advantages with clustered and awkward fingerings and cleaner play (up to 11% more room). Children manage quite well on standard necks, where the size difference between their hands and an adult "small" hand is much greater than 6%. It's valid to have a preference based on reach, but I think it's mostly throwing the baby out with the bathwater—the reach advantage you get staying narrower is appreciably less than the playing advantages you get going with a wider string spacing—and anyway it turns out there's more of a continuum of spacings than a discrete jump (from 27mm to 31.5mm), so the savvy buyer can choose a suitable compromise. My Mainland concert has a 29mm spacing, equivalent to or greater than the spacing on half of my wider-nut ukes, yet I've heard no one complain about reach problems on a Mainland. And I mentioned above about Ponos and their fan-out, which also typically goes unremarked. Expectations often override objective input in shaping our experiences.

This all makes a lot of sense to me.

If the intonation is good enough, I leave it alone, but if not I adjust nut/saddle as needed, and most of the time the string spacing is not an issue for me unless I am playing a D chord, which I always use a barred-C, up two frets as 2225.

While this puts the octave on the 1st string, I find it works for me because with closer chord voicings and many notes shared (like Am to F to Dm) the chord transition can get lost (in the cadence of the notes in transition or shared among those kinds of chords in first position), so a D 2225 or an E 4447 is fine for me, because it lets the root note ring out as an octave and is usually heard distinctively above the other notes...

Sometimes I have trouble with applying enough pressure for the barred part, but that is more due to hand problems than which instrument I am on and the issue occurs regardless of which uke I play.

None of my current ukes have radiused fretboards, which is something I might try in the future.

Since I've gotten into fifths tunings, I tried out several tenor banjos (4-string) and several mandolins, and with a 30mm nut width, and often a 23-25mm string span width, I found even 2-finger chords difficult...

...and that is why I converted the nut and saddle and bridge on a $99 22" scale Oscar Schmidt guitar with a 1.5" nut width from a 6-string to a 4-string, and have it strung in fifths tuning as a tenor guitar.

The string span width at the nut for 4 strings now is approximately like an average baritone uke and I am really loving the wide string span at the bridge of about 54mm which makes finger picking much easier and allows me to get some flesh under the strings instead of having my natural nails get shaved down from the friction with steel strings.

It's a different playing technique for the right hand, but allows me a wider variety of ways to articulate the attack on the strings, and I can still use my nails for strumming (I've grown a distaste for using a pick since taking up ukulele, and have nor used a pick in over 4 yrs now for any instrument)....
 
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