Filing Nut for Low G Tuning

ash13brook

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I have a high G concert I want tune to low G. Is there a standard size I need to file the nut to, to accommodate the low G string?
Also, do I have to use a nut file or can I get away with a triangular needle file?

Thanks,
Matt
 
I have a high G concert I want tune to low G. Is there a standard size I need to file the nut to, to accommodate the low G string?
Also, do I have to use a nut file or can I get away with a triangular needle file?

Thanks,
Matt

Technically, the size you need is just a little larger than the diameter of the string you're fitting ... not helpful, maybe, but accurate!

What you do NOT want to use is a triangular file. The narrow bottom of the groove you'll cut is perfect for causing the string to jam (and probably snap) under tension. Ideally you want a circular "rat's tail" file of a diameter appropriate to the string you're fitting.

Having said all that, I'd probably use a hacksaw blade, VERY SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY, just as I usually do, but I'd not recommend that to anyone who wasn't totally familiar with using a hacksaw on hard plastic material (eg. ukulele nut).

What ever you do use, mask off the whole area with card and tape so there's absolutely no chance of damage when the tool slips, as it almost certainly will!

Unless you cut into the wood you'll not do any damage that can't be easily recovered, so don't be put off, but do work very slowly!

Good luck :)
 
I've just ordered some low G strings, and it looks to me like if you go with a wound G, the diameter may be close enough to nylon/fluorocarbon that you won't need to modify the nut. That's what I'm hoping, anyway.
 
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Why not try install the string into the existing slot and see what happens? I have Kala Tenor and have installed wound and non wound low G strings without modifying the nut. I have not perceived any problems. It it does not work, then you can risk filing the nut.
 
I didn't even think about that. I have the perfect blade for that. Is there any fine sanding needed? Or some graphite maybe?

Matt

Fine sanding shouldn't be necessary if you cut slowly and lightly, it'll only take a couple of light "wipes" with the blade to enlarge the existing slot ... graphite will never go amiss, even if it's not actually needed.

If you do want to try installing the new string "to see how it goes" without any cutting, go slowly. If the string gets jammed in the slot that's potentially an immediate weak point that you may have to deal with later on.

I agree, wound low-G's can be thinner and may be less of an issue. Still does no harm to check that the string lies sweetly IN the slot before you start to tighten it, use a magnifier if necessary to ensure the string actually gets to the bottom of the slot without jamming.

:music:
 
I've been using welding rod tip cleaners as round files for nut filing for a long time. You can get them in any decent hardware store for somewhere around US$ 5 for a complete set (approx 20 in various diameters). They are usually in a blue metal case.

Ditto on the "don't use triangular files" comment. Nylon strings get pinched in the angle and often snap when tensioned..
 
I'd get the appropriate size nut slot file from Stewmac or some other supplier for the size of the string you intend to use. These files cut a round bottom slot for optimal sound transfer.Go slowly, checking often.
Having said that, I'd first try the lo G without filing. That way, if you don't like it, there's no problem switching back
 
I guess I didn't consider trying the string first, either. For sure I'm not using a wound string just 'cuz. It's a $50 Kmise uke, so there's no reason not to think the nut that came with it might be sloppy enough to need no widening.
I looked at a set of nut files, but I have tools for too many different things as it is - two roller boxes each with two top boxes. As soon as I bought nut files, I need a dedicated drawer, which would be nearly empty with only nut files in it, which of course would lead to more tools...and then, well, you get it.
Thanks for the help so far.

Matt
 
Fremont soloist squeekless low g, likely won't have to file.
 
Why not try install the string into the existing slot and see what happens? I have Kala Tenor and have installed wound and non wound low G strings without modifying the nut. I have not perceived any problems. It it does not work, then you can risk filing the nut.

This is what I would advise too.
 
FYI:

99% of unwound fluoro low-G strings are going to be either 0.0358" or 0.0413" in diameter.

99% of WOUND low-G strings are going to be either 0.028" or 0.030" in diameter.

The wound strings are a higher density due to the over-wrap of silver-plated copper wire, thus thinner in diameter and slightly better intonation and tone but with about 3 lbs more string tension than the fluoro strings mentioned above.

ANY Classical guitar "D' string will work, and is the same in fact as most uke 'single' low-G strings of the same material.

If you do a search for 'thomastik' you will find LOTS of discussion of using this brand of CHOME flatwound strings, which many find to be an improvement in near-zero string squeak and finger noise over the Fremont Soloist wound gold-colored low-G string, which only sold as a single. The Thomastik strings are ALSO available as a single.

D'Addario single "D" classical string are usually ~$1.50 online, the Fremont $5, and the Thomastik $6.

Many many times, I have used a few careful strokes of a hacksaw blade to widen the nut slots, but be VERY careful since most hacksaw blades will remove LOTS of material in a single stroke, i.e., they 'cut' much faster than a file does.

I then use the welding tip cleaners, also with ONLY a few gentle strokes to make sure that the bottom of the nut slot is round.

Also, make sure that you are cutting at an angle down towards the tuners such that the breakpoint of the string over the nut is at the face of the nut. If you cut a slot that is parallel to the fretboard, you are going to have bad problems with buzzing and intonation.

+1 for the severe warning to NEVER use a triangle file for nut slots, unless you actually enjoy self-torture from intermittent tuning variations in response to the tuner-rotation vs. the tension that ends at the V-shaped nut slot, that is not immediately or EVER transfered to the vibrating length of the string because it is 'bound up' in the valley of the V-shape, while also constantly replacing strings from this same excessive tension in just a few short inches.

Amazon, ebay, Walmart and CB Gitty all sell a set of gaged welding-tip cleaners for $6 or less and they come in a holder that lets you flip out the size needed while keeping the other sizes inside, much like a swiss-army knife, and they are easy to use, but they do have quite a bit of flex, so you need to make sure how your hand moves when you gently stroke the nut slot so as to minimize the flex, as you are merely polishing the slot round and not sawing at it, so lots of force is not necessary.

:)
 
I have a high G concert I want tune to low G. Is there a standard size I need to file the nut to, to accommodate the low G string?
Also, do I have to use a nut file or can I get away with a triangular needle file?

Thanks,
Matt

Worth CT-LG string set went on my Kamaka fine with no modification of the nut.
 
You can get that Freemont low G as a single. It is a wound, coated string and impressively slender for a low G. Lots of fans including Jake.


That was my next question.
Are there Low G Concert sets with an unwound 4th?
Is the Fremont a single string or a set?

Matt
 
Ditto Phil. I had a low g set of fluorocarbons I was gonna put on my soprano. Wayyy too think for the slot. I was reluctant to cut nut (this was a couple of yrs ago, now I might). I went with a Freemont soloist and did not have to fiddle with the nut. Very happy with it. Only downside is my bridge is slotted and it's a royal pain to get a nice tight knot. If it was a tie bridge, I'd have no problem.
 
Get the Fremont, it can be used on tenor, concert and soprano.....yes soprano. Here is a trick to check if the slot is wide enough for the Fremont. Sharpen a pencil with a knife so the point is long and slender. Then colour in the bottom of that one nut slot. Take the string, place it in the nut slot and pull it back and forth a few times. If the pencil coating gets worn away you know the string is bottoming out and the slot is wide enough for the string.
 
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