Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: Fretboard flush with soundboard

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Cumbria, NW England
    Posts
    375

    Default

    Thanks for all those responses.

    ProfChris-I think you've raised some interesting points to directly address my question.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    589

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ukecaster View Post
    Funny, the 30s/40s Favilla U2 soprano I recently got seems to be a bit different: it appears to have a single piece neck, with no separate fret board, frets installed directly into the neck (i've heard that called Hawaiian style), but the playing surface is raised slightly, it is not flush to the body. Adding to that, to get the small birdsbeak overhang, there appears to be a thin piece of fingerboard added, incorporating the area of the last fret and the overhang. Pics below, but anyone familiar with that build style?
    Attachment 102768
    Attachment 102769
    I think you have a fretboard, but made from the same wood as the neck. Your side view picture is rather blurry but I think I see the glue line.

    I suppose Favilla could just have glued on the birds beak to cover the dovetail joint, but that seems the hard way to do it.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Chester, VT
    Posts
    103

    Default

    I have a Kamaka gold label and the frets are simply installed into the neck, which is flush with the top of the instrument. This is a no nonsense koa wood pineapple and I love it. I have worked for years on banjos and the idea there is usually to have the fretboard flush to the head with the neck angle and bridge creating the action height. It works well. The only negative that I can see is that there is less ability to adjust the bridge height.
    Martin c. 1934
    Martin OXK
    Kamaka pineapple gold label
    Mele pineapple - koa and mahogany
    Bruko concert - cedar and rosewood
    Mele, Braddah tenor
    Slingerland banjolele Maybell - 1920s
    Gibson tenor Jr banjo strung as baritone - 1924

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    691

    Default

    My gold label Kamaka soprano is the same, frets right into the koa neck, which is flush with the body.
    Ask NOT what your country can do for Uke...ask what Uke can do for your country.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    PHX, AZ
    Posts
    1,988

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by frianm View Post
    I have a Kamaka gold label and the frets are simply installed into the neck, which is flush with the top of the instrument. This is a no nonsense koa wood pineapple and I love it. I have worked for years on banjos and the idea there is usually to have the fretboard flush to the head with the neck angle and bridge creating the action height. It works well. The only negative that I can see is that there is less ability to adjust the bridge height.
    I think Deering does this. I've seen it on their banjo uke and personally really liked it.
    "If a lot of people play the ukulele, the world would be a better place to live."

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Little River, California
    Posts
    1,571

    Default

    Interesting, but I think that uke does in fact have a fretboard although it is extremely thin. It seems to me they just put on a thin piece of almost vaneer and then sawed through the thin wood to the neck to make the fret slots. Very quick method no doubt. Hit the neck and stop sawing. Next! I just wonder what the height of the saddle and bridge would be. Low no doubt. String beating on the top would be inevitable. but that might not be a bad thing. The uke after all is almost a percussive instrument and that is part of its sound. Or at least it used to be in its more primitive forms. Now we make little tenor small guitar things.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    589

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sequoia View Post
    I just wonder what the height of the saddle and bridge would be. Low no doubt. String beating on the top would be inevitable ...
    Not inevitable at all! I can angle the neck back to produce whatever string height at the saddle I want (usually around 10-12mm, pretty much the same as with a conventional fretboard).

    Angling the neck is really quite simple - if the 12th fret action is to be, say, 2.5mm, then that translates to 5mm at the saddle if the neck is in line with the top. So I decide how much higher I want it - say, 6mm higher to give 11mm total, and then angle the neck back so it's 6mm below the plane of the top at the nut. The simplest method is to place neck and body down on a flat surface and put a 6mm drill bit under the neck at the nut.

    This also works for fretboards - for each mm depth of fretboard, angle it back 1mm less at the nut.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •