View Poll Results: Which string material do you prefer?

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  • Always Nylon/Nylgut!

    5 7.94%
  • Always Flourcarbons!

    26 41.27%
  • Depends on the uke, tuning etc.

    30 47.62%
  • I only tried one kind of strings

    2 3.17%
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Thread: Another string thread... with a poll!

  1. #1
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    Default Another string thread... with a poll!

    There has been a lot of threads about which strings to choose.
    Besides high G/ low G and which brand, there is the big difference of nylon/nylgut vs floucarbons. I know that this is pretty generic.

    I haven't quite decided what I prefer, so I wonder if I should string different ukes with different strings. So what goes where?

    Besides taking the very shallow poll, I would like comments that specify what you believe points to one material over the other with respect to:

    Tuning: high g, low G and other, flourcarbons for which?
    Playing style: strumming, picking, flourcarbons for which?
    Genre: Some genres need another sound?
    Ukulele size: My local ukulele pusher told me that flourcarbons are only for sopranos, I assume many will disagree.
    Wood type: does it matter if it is mahogany, koa or something else?

    I know that there is not a simple answer to these questions, but if you feel that any of the above affects which strings you prefer, or the importance of having you favorite strings, then that parameter is what I am looking for.
    Ohana SK30M mahogany super-soprano, Cort UKEBWCOP Blackwood concert, Fluke Koa Tenor, Hora M1176 spruce Tenor

  2. #2
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    Default

    Living Water flourocarbons mainly, playing melodies & occasional strumming, Low G (Low D).

    (Aquila Nylgut left on laminate/cheaper ukes High G (High D) mainly for strumming.)

    Used to have Low G on all sizes, (soprano to bari) - then I put re entrant back on soprano as I didn't use them much, & now I don't use soprano scaled ukes at all.

    I prefer flourocarbon for their feel & the sound they produce, my preference is for a mellow, (rather than a plinky sharp), sound.

    My wood preferences are for solid mahogany, cedar top, & spruce - in that order.
    Trying to do justice to various musical instruments.
    Formerly known as uke1950.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by uke1950 View Post
    Living Water flourocarbons mainly, playing melodies & occasional strumming, Low G (Low D).

    (Aquila Nylgut left on laminate/cheaper ukes High G (High D) mainly for strumming.)

    Used to have Low G on all sizes, (soprano to bari) - then I put re entrant back on soprano as I didn't use them much, & now I don't use soprano scaled ukes at all.

    I prefer flourocarbon for their feel & the sound they produce, my preference is for a mellow, (rather than a plinky sharp), sound.

    My wood preferences are for solid mahogany, cedar top, & spruce - in that order.
    Thanks for the input.
    With regards to high/low G, the angle I wanted was mostly what is means for the string material. E.g, is it most important for you to have have flourcarbon on the low G, or is it just as important in high g.
    And for the tonewood the same - do you think some benefit more from a specific string material than the other, regardless of which tonewood you prefer.
    If I have a solid mahogany and a solid akacia concert, and I want nylgut on one and flourcarbon on the other, where would you put which strings?
    Ohana SK30M mahogany super-soprano, Cort UKEBWCOP Blackwood concert, Fluke Koa Tenor, Hora M1176 spruce Tenor

  4. #4
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    I have tested over 100 different sets of strings, and additionally, about 45 different classical guitar single strings over the past 4 yrs on ukulele, and the info below comes from my own hands-on experience.

    Out of the more than dozen ukes I have, only 2 have Aquilas on them, all the rest are some flavor of fluororcarbons, either Martin M6x0, Worth CM or BM, Oasis, or D'Addario EJ99T. I have found these to be the most consistent, and yes they are somewhat different gauges, and the strings that I settle with on a given instrument will correspond to the strengths and weaknesses of the sound of each individual instrument.

    There is no hard and fast rule for the best strings for everyone or for every uke, and anyone that tells you this is misinformed and if you believe this, that is your right, but you should know that there is lots of science to prove this belief as incorrect.

    However, I have found string choice does MORE to alter the tone on a laminate instrument than on an all-solid wood, or solid-wood-top-and-lam-back-and-sides instrument.

    Folks that dont care or dont know any better and never tried other strings, or simply dismiss alternate strings 'as all the same' are simply and woefully misinformed.

    it is not my own 'confirmation bias' but different string materials, and different string gauges will have different tension, as well as better or worse intonation BECAUSE of the different gauges and different tensions.

    Now if you want to get into alternate tunings D6, or Bb or A6 on anything other than baritone, all of the above multiplies in permutation, and if you want to get into 5ths tunings on ANY scale length you have to know something about string tension vs. diameters (relative linear density) otherwise you are just spinning your wheels...

    I've posted a few links and a few tips REGARDING STRINGS that can be found on the page linked in my forum signature below.
    Just the FAQs
    "Only those who will risk going too far, can possibly find out how far one can go."
    -T. S. Eliot

  5. #5
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    The reason that I change strings is that I prefer the flourocarbon feel & tone I get from them, so if I liked High G, I would use them for that as well.

    Regarding which string that I would put on each wood, I would definately have the flourocarbons on the mahogany, as they give me the sound that I like.

    The nylguts would likely suit the brighter tone of acacia, but I don't have one, so can't confirm that personally.

    (Booli has tested so many strings/ukes that it may seem confusing, but he does generalize his findings in amongst all the info somewhere, I saw it on another string thread.)
    Trying to do justice to various musical instruments.
    Formerly known as uke1950.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by uke1950 View Post
    ...(Booli has tested so many strings/ukes that it may seem confusing, but he does generalize his findings in amongst all the info somewhere, I saw it on another string thread.)
    Thanks Keith, as stated previously, the path to enlightenment is summarized and linked if you look at my signature, and simply click THAT link, all the wonders will be revealed...

    It's not complicated and only requires the use of a finger to click. It won't hurt any, I promise
    Just the FAQs
    "Only those who will risk going too far, can possibly find out how far one can go."
    -T. S. Eliot

  7. #7
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    Default

    For me, it depends on the instrument. If I could get flouros to always give me the sound and feel I wanted, then I'd never use anything but them due to the consistency, durability, and intonation. Of course there is a variety of those to look at too. I prefer D'addario and Worth (light tension).
    That said, I've owned instruments that I like Nyltechs better on, LaBella pro series better on, D'addario Pro Arte etc. etc...
    With some, it's a tough call for me as to which I like best. More times than not I've ended up back with flouros after experimenting with a given instrument.

    With ukes, to me, strings make a lot more difference than with guitars or any other instrument I currently play or have played in the past. There's just such a variety and huge differences can be felt and heard between materials.

    In the end, it's personal preference....as always. We all hear and feel things differently.
    Last edited by jer; 09-08-2017 at 07:20 AM.

  8. #8
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    Even if it's a repeated thread, I still find it enlightening. I've gradually been moving away from Aquilas, which just don't feel good. I'm using Worth Browns on my Cocobolo concert, and loving it. The Aquila New Nylguts will be coming off my banjouke soon, they are actually painful to play and don't sound good. My Kala solid mahog still has Nylguts on it, but as soon as I wear them out, I'm switching. Every set I've had sounded like there was a dead, thuddy C string, on all the frets.
    Booli, not only have I been on your website, I have it bookmarked. No need for me to waste precious dollars re-inventing the wheel.
    Last edited by Nickie; 09-08-2017 at 01:59 PM.
    "Those who bring sunshine and laughter to the lives of others cannot keep it from themselves".

    Music washes from the soul, the dust of everyday living.

  9. #9
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    Default

    i like living water flourocarbons for sopranos and concerts with high g tuning

    i prefer a wound low g, so i generally go for aquilas if i want a low g, i also like them for baritone uke, they are quite low tension and i like that, i like wound strings on the d and g on a bari

    i have tried combining a low aquila g with living water c e and a strings but i found they settled differently and drifted out of tune differently and it was harder to keep the uke in tune with a mix of strings

    i would love it if living water strings came with wound options but sadly they don't, they are, otherwise, way my favourite kind of strings

  10. #10
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    Default

    I'm not always Flurocarbon although that is how I voted. I do try all the other. I recently put some AGxAQ on and like them. Looking forward to the NEW SUGAR. I like what Aquila is doing but don't necessarily like all their strings. I tried the Chee/Maisel re entrant and they are pretty good. But, my bias is toward Flurocarbon as they just ring out so much. I like the sound. I will always try different options and strings until I find the one for each uke but I always seems to gravitate back to fluro's.
    YMMV as it a very personal thing.

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