Headstock logo advice, please!

finkdaddy

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I need some advice on this, please.
What I really want is to have my new logo printed on my headstock in metallic gold or brass. I do not want to do an inlay.

My first thought was to have a screen made so that I can screenprint my logo on myself (I have a background in screenprinting). But having a one-off, custom screen made is expensive, and then you have to deal with inks, block-out, clean up chemicals, ect.

My next thought was to have a sheet of gold foil, run-on transfers made. But at anywhere from $100 and up per sheet, that's not really an option either.

I don't like waterslip decals, since they tend to be pretty thick and are almost never opaque, which it would need to be since it will be over ebony.

Does anyone have any ideas on another way do this?
Any advice is welcome.

Thank you!
 
Prior to lasering them in now, I use to do screen print with a water base pearl ink. Clean up was a breeze. Getting it lined up and a perfect application was the tricky part. The attached image is pearl ink on ebony.

milo tenor-1.jpg
 
Prior to lasering them in now, I use to do screen print with a water base pearl ink. Clean up was a breeze. Getting it lined up and a perfect application was the tricky part. The attached image is pearl ink on ebony.

View attachment 103064

That looks really nice, Allen. In the end I'm pretty sure that's what I'll be doing, except with metallic ink.


Custom rubber stamps can be got on ebay with your artwork for around $20 you can pair that with gold paint/ink or glue and gilding foil.

That's a pretty good idea, actually! I'm going to have to look into that and see if it's doable.

Thanks, guys!
 
And don't forget the "no-logo" peghead logo. Nothing. I have not been putting anything in that space for awhile. I think nothing there is kinda cool in a way. Nobody says you have to put a logo up there and sometimes blank is even better. The less is more kind of thinking. I kinda sometimes think that if your instrument is not going to be seen and played on stage or photographed, why the need for a logo? But still, the area does call for some sort of adornment. Below is what I used to do. A lot of work and after that is what I do now which is a lot less work. A lot easier. Still, the area does call for adornment doesn't it?

DSCN7346.jpg

Now I'm just letting wood be wood...

DSCN7746.jpg
 
I'm torn between my decal logos, a branding iron logo or, no logo at all. Not sure which way to jump.
 
My favorite uke has the name stamped into the back of the headstock, nothing on the front. I like its stealth factor.
 
Or you can have some sort of decorative logo like this shield pattern. This was ubiquitous on early 19 th century guitars, usually inlaid of ivory or bone. They would then scratch/scribe the date and the makers name within the shield, blacken the scribe markings. Just like scrimshaw work. I didn't bother with the markings, I thought the decorative shield was sufficient. I just cut out the shield pattern from ebony and inlaid it into the headstock veneer. Either design your own or like me, steal one, as long as it doesn't infringe the usual.

logo2.jpg
 
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One perspective is to determine if you are a maker, or a brand. If you are a maker, from say an artistic or craftsman perspective you "sign" your piece. Something tasteful in the lower corner. If you are promoting a brand, and want brand recognition, the a headstock logo is for you. Or if you're just darn good at what you do you could put something like "Joohn S Kinnardo, III, Inc. est. 1733, patent pending" emblazened on the top. Up to you.

But back to my point, I think it matters what your build intentions are and what kind of name recognition you're trying to build. I put my initials on the headstock of mine because people ask me to. When I build on spec to sell one day, they go on the back of the headstock.

And of course, laser etch is the way to go. But screen print would be a close second.
 
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Currently on my newest uke I'm going for the minimalist squared off look. Funny, but I discovered that the squared off peghead look is not as easy to do as I thought. There are few reference points to get it perfectly square. I found out that the rounded or crowned affair hides a lot of sins. Basically I'm copying Martins early look. Trying the minimalist design. No logo.

DSCN7924.jpg
 
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