Bar G and A chords

pix.fairydust

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Anyone have any tips for playing bar chords that span 3 frets, e.g. bar G and A, barred on the 2nd and 4th fret? I find that I can't get enough pressure in my second finger to press all the strings so that the ones that need to can be heard and ring clearly, and my ring finger doesn't stretch / curve round enough to reach the G string but stay clear of the A string. Is it just a matter of practise and building strength?

Thanks :)
 
Probably. A few other things to consider would be the width of your neck (would you be able to hit the G string without hitting the A string if your neck was narrower, wider, or if the string was further from the edge of the board?) and the height of the action (do you have to press down extra hard on your strings to fret them properly?) I can play these sort of bar chords on all my ukuleles, but they are definitely easier on some than on others.
 
Hi, pix!

It is bit hard to identify your problem without photos or videos but I try my best.

All of the fingers should face to your face. It is very important for any chords especially with ring fingers and pinkeys (see the figures in the middle).
The first joint of the pinkey is important it should have enough angle (yellow line). Your palm needs enough space to the neck (top figure).



Do not hesitate to ask farther questions!
 
Hey Pix,

So much good advice so far. I agree with Robin that it's easier to hit on some ukes than others due to neck widths, string spacing, and string distance from the edge. This is the excuse I give myself to own multiple ukes. :)

How I tackled this G chord with G string note is deconstructing it and going backwards. Each hand and instrument is different and i can't stretch or bend my fingers like Aldrine Guerrero does in his tutorials so I had to adapt to what I could do.

Put your ring finger on the 4th string, 4th fret
Put your middle finger on the 2nd string, 3rd fret
Pluck each string and make sure each note rings
Keep looking at your ring finger to see how much wiggle room you have before you mute the 3rd string, and remember it.
Barre your index finger on the 2nd fret. Depending on your fingers and reach, you may need to barre all 4 strings or just 3 strings. Just look at your fingers from different angles to find a grip that works with your hand. You may need to move your palm closer or further away from the fretboard.

For me, I need to barre the entire 2nd fret to hit the 4th string with my ring finger. It's going to differ for each person. Now once you have a mental picture of how you need to hold it. Don't worry about the strength as that will come over time. Now practice this chord everyday by squeezing and letting go while you pluck each string clearly. Don't do it for too long or your hand will tire out.

It took me a couple weeks for my hand to get used to it. I practice by putting the fingers in the right position and usually starting backwards with the ring finger. Once in position, then press down hard for a second, ring out each note clearly, then rest. It's all muscle memory and how you need to adapt for your hand.
 
Also, don't get too hung up on the barre part. What you're trying to achieve is a movable chord - for some, barreing is the easiest (e.g. Bm - 4222). But for others, you might make a partial barre (for B - 4322 you can barre all 4 strings or just the 22 element).

If you want a movable G shape, say 2 frets up to make an A, then you might consider a different shape. The pictures above show the 6454 shape, which I find very difficult. But 2454 is also an A (index finger on the 2). You could barre all the strings for this one, or just finger the 2 with a single finger, which I find easiest. Another A chord is 6457 (the F shape taken up 4 frets) and is quite easy to finger, no barring.
 
Check out this video from Aaron Keim on barre chords:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJEY26RUPzo
It may help to move your thumb up the fretboard to put it below the 3rd fret so that you barre the 2nd fret with the edge of your finger. This position also rolls your hand a bit and may give more clearance for your ring finger.

As others have said, what works for you will depend on the size and shape of your uke's fretboard and neck, as well as the anatomy of your hand.
 
Okay, I'm gonna buck the trend here. You don't need more strength. If you are still playing a year from now you will be playing these chords with a fraction of the finger pressure that you are using now. Learn precision of finger placement with very light finger pressure. The Death Grip will slow you down, and possibly cause injury.
 
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