Removable Kamaka Nut?

I just purchased a 100 th anniversary Kamaka Pineapple Soprano. Somehow, when I changed strings, the nut can actually come off. Seems like there is a slot for the Nut to sit in and the tension of the strings just keeps it there. Is that supposed so? Does it mean I can order a new bone Nut? All my other Uke's nuts are all fixed to the neck.
Please help.

Ideally, a nut is attached with only a very small amount of glue so it can be removed later for work or to be replaced. So it's not a big deal. You could use a small drop of glue and put it back on or just let the string tension hold it. I prefer a tiny drop of glue (Elmer's) at least, and that is more the norm. I don't suggest Super Glue as it is more permanent.
Yes, you could replace it with a bone nut. However, that nut would need to be shaped as well as slotted correctly by someone with experience. I'm not sure what that will do to the value of your particular uke since it's an expensive anniversary model. Maybe you're not concerned with re-sale value though. Of course you could install the original nut again too later, if needed. Just be aware that once a nut is glued on there is the potential for damage to the slot when removing. That is also best done by someone with experience.

You may also want to consider that as far as tone goes, the nut doesn't have much of an effect. It can effect the open strings only. Once you fret a note, the nut is out of play. It does, however, always effect tuning stability or lack thereof.
That may be more than you wanted or needed to know, but I'm trying to read between the lines as to the "why?" here.

jer said:

Ideally, a nut is attached with only a very small amount of glue so it can be removed later for work or to be replaced. So it's not a big deal. You could use a small drop of glue and put it back on or just let the string tension hold it. I prefer a tiny drop of glue (Elmer's) at least, and that is more the norm. I don't suggest Super Glue as it is more permanent.
Yes, you could replace it with a bone nut. However, that nut would need to be shaped as well as slotted correctly by someone with experience. I'm not sure what that will do to the value of your particular uke since it's an expensive anniversary model. Maybe you're not concerned with re-sale value though. Of course you could install the original nut again too later, if needed. Just be aware that once a nut is glued on there is the potential for damage to the slot when removing. That is also best done by someone with experience.

You may also want to consider that as far as tone goes, the nut doesn't have much of an effect. It can effect the open strings only. Once you fret a note, the nut is out of play. It does, however, always effect tuning stability or lack thereof.
That may be more than you wanted or needed to know, but I'm trying to read between the lines as to the "why?" here.

Click to expand...

As to "why"...
The set up from the authorized dealer has a lower action than I prefer. No buzzing, but quite close. So I may need a new Nut with grooves not so deep.
May I add a thin piece of plastic strip under the to raise the action?

I meant Uber the Nut. Thank you jer.

I meant under the Nut. Sigh, auto correct....

MANY ukuleles do have the nut glued in, as jer said above with just a dab of wood glue and NOT EVER superglue or krazy glue.

Both the nut and saddle are meant to be serviced and replaceable, and to be removed with little effort. YouTube has trillions of videos to demo the 2-second, very simple procedure for tapping out a nut.

Out of the more than 2 dozen ukes I have owned, a few have had a nut that is NOT glued in, and it was held by string tension just fine. I consider this a benefit.

Just FYI - this is NOT a problem at all. When you replace the nut just be sure to orient it properly as the nut slots that are done right will be 'ramped' such that the edge of the STRING SLOT in the nut that faces the soundhole will be TALLER than the edge that faces the TUNERS - this is by design. The breakpoint for the vibrating length of the string needs to be towards the soundhole for intonation to work properly and to avoid string buzzing in the slot as well as binding/sticking of wound strings when tuning to pitch.

Lapyang said:

...May I add a thin piece of plastic strip under the to raise the action?

Click to expand...

yes, you can 'shim' the nut...

I find that business cards can be sliced up for 0.5mm increments, and plastic zip-ties (aka tie-wraps) can also be used for coarser 1mm increments.

For adding a few of the paper or cardstock layers together, I find that a rub-on glue stick works well to make them act as a single
'unit' which you can also use the glue stick to just hold the now home-made shim to the bottom of the nut...

The SAME thing can also be done with the saddle to RAISE the action. However one needs to be mindful that if the nut slots are too high, all your fretted notes in the first 5 frets will likely be intonating sharp, and thus the uke will not play 'in tune' with poor intonation.

I've done exactly this above many times to customize the action and intonation on my ukes. SMALL/fine increments are usually better than coarser increments.

Hope this helps!

Thank you. These suggestions help a lot.

Lapyang said:

Thank you. These suggestions help a lot.

Click to expand...

No worries - I'm glad to help.

I should also mention that once you get everything set up just right, that if you change to a different gauge of string or different material (from nylon to fluorocarbon, or to nylgut, REDS, LAVA, etc and vice-versa) due to changes in both string tension and string diameter, the vibrating arc of the string above the fretboard is going to be altered, either above or below your previous set of strings, and for that, you may need to 'adjust' the 'setup'.

Once you find a set and gauge of strings that you are going to stick with, then you wont have that issue any more, but a string change MAY require not only string action adjustment, but also intonation adjustment at both nut and saddle.

This is not a difficult task, but one that you should know how to do, kind of like knowing how to change a flat tire on your car.

If you are a serial-string-changer like me, and/or obsessed with trying to get the sound in your imagination from the instrument via different types of strings, then this is a useful appreciation of the 'string geometry', however, if you lack the hearing acuity to tell the difference and all strings sound the same to you, then you will likely be pleased quite easily, which is a GOOD thing, since you will not be chasing shadows for 'that sound'...

I have written more about strings in numerous threads here on UU and some of them are accessible via the FAQ link in my signature below...

NO Glue for a Kamaka nut. String tension will hold it in. Just make sure you have the nut turned the right way.

Some low G strong are much larger diameter than high G string. If your nut is removable, you can keep two nuts, one for low G, one for high G.
I was very happy when dropped off the nut on my guitalele. Now I have two nuts, one for extra light gauge one for medium gauge.

As Booli noted, you can shim...and he provided a lot of other info too already of course.

For a slightly different opinion:
Personally, I'm not a fan of shimming. I'm not sure how deep the nut slot is on your uke to begin with. If you put a shim in there you've made the slot more shallow, which means less to hold the nut in. I would just get a new nut, especially on such an expensive, nice instrument. Plus, you'd keep the full depth of the nut slot rather than having two moving pieces sitting in it.

You have options, now you get to figure out what works best for you.