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Thread: Bridge preferences (tie, pinned, through the top...)???

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    CH
    Posts
    1,133

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    I do like the clean look of string-through, but when it comes to changing strings, for me, pins are easiest, string-through the hardest.
    Enjoying instruments by - Beau Hannam - Jay Lichty - Jerry Hoffmann - John Kinnard - Luis Feu de Mesquita - Kala - Kamaka - Kanile'a - KoAloha - Ko'olau - Moore Bettah - Pono - Romero Creations - Toby Chennell - and others

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Wiltshire, UK
    Posts
    333

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    I much prefer a simple slotted bridge. Tie bridges are just so fiddly in comparison. Anything else I reckon is just bling.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Upper Hale, Surrey/Hants border, UK.
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    3,928

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    It's your uke - but I buy tie bridged ukes.

    So easy to use, once you learn to trap the string with the knot, (which I think is where most people that don't like it fail); & it's easy to swap & reuse strings with this method. Also, you can tie a bead on the string end if you are experimenting with strings, which will allow changing & reuse very quick & easy.

    (I understand the advantage of string through, but don't like the idea of having to fish the strings out of the sound hole to tie the knots in them, & it's easier to replace a single string with other methods.)
    Long Neck = Kala KA-SLNG - Ohana SK30M - Ohana SK30L - Ohana CK35L
    Electric = Mahalo 'Surfboard' concert - RISA Solid/Stick concert - RISA Uke Ellie tenor - RISA Solid/Stick tenor
    Concert = Baton Rouge Hotrod - Baton Rouge Sun thinline cutaway - Kala KA-CEME - Kala KA-ASAC
    Tenor = Kala KA-T (fitted with classical guitar strings DGBE)
    Baritone = Lani solid Spruce top - Kala solid Cedar top

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    A Windy Place in The U.K.
    Posts
    114

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    My small collection are mostly tie-bridge,but one is
    knotted,and one is a 'through bridge' type.
    All power and respect to you Concert,Tenor and Baritone players, but Soprano is what does it for me every time!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    996

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    I really really dislike slotted bridges. Everything else is just fine.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    ma ke ala
    Posts
    5,489

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    Since I change strings a lot, I tie a knot on the end of the string, which allows me to put the strings on a slotted bridge, and if I am using them on a uke with a tie bridge, I feed the same string thru a 3mm bead and then into the hole in the tie bridge, which not only allows me to re-use them later without the twisted mess that results from removing them after installing them the traditional way, but ALSO allows for a more aggressive string break angle from the back of the saddle and into the string hole in the bridge.

    Re-using strings on a string-thru design has been troublesome for me since if you remove the strings, there's no way to feed them from the soundhole up (since the soundhole is smaller than the width of my hand unlike on a guitar where I can fit my hand inside and 'thread the needle' with the string from the inside up), however, the solution to re-using strings on a thru-bridge is to snip off the knot, and feed from the top again.

    While this wastes about 25mm of string when you clip the knot, in my case, since I ALWAYS leave extra at the tuners end, it's not really a problem.

    Keep in mind that my string changing obsession only comes into play when I first get a new instrument and want to try different sets on it to see the range of tone, and once I've selected the set I want for the tone/tension/play-feel, the string changing is minimized and in the future on that instrument only done when the string wears out or breaks.

    Pin bridges are fine, and I have smaller beads that I use for those strings, with the same knot, so it's not an issue for me.

    Ball-end strings for ukulele do not exist, so with $2 spent at the craft store, you can get a bag of 200 beads in assorted sizes that will last you a lifetime, so these objections to using beads or pin-bridges for the PLAYER are really just a reason to avoid what is really minimal added steps. To each his own.

    I care more about tone and playability than I do about bridge type, and the only issue I have with slotted bridges is when using wound strings, sometimes it's difficult to get the knot small enough to fit WHILE not breaking the windings of the outer wrap wire, which eventually causes the string to break at the bridge slot.

    Happened to me many times. I've since taken to putting a few drops of clear nail polish on the knots in wound strings to help strengthen them by keeping the knot AND the windings from coming apart from being kinked by the pressure of string tension.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    2,343

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    I like string-through bridges, but I dislike changing strings on them (fishing strings out of the sound hole). For convenience, I prefer tie bridges, like on classical guitars. Those are quick to do and don't cause problems or difficulties for me.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Pickering, ON, Canada
    Posts
    3,911

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    Tie bridge and pin bridge makes re-using strings the easiest but I think that is lowest priority. I have both bridge designs including slotted and string through. I prefer string through ( I even paid extra to have it on my Farallon) because of the clean look and mechanical advantage.
    Ukuleles.............yes please !!!!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Upper Hale, Surrey/Hants border, UK.
    Posts
    3,928

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    Maybe the through body stringing needs to have a keyhole shape so that you can drop the knot through from the top, then pull it into the slot to secure it.
    Long Neck = Kala KA-SLNG - Ohana SK30M - Ohana SK30L - Ohana CK35L
    Electric = Mahalo 'Surfboard' concert - RISA Solid/Stick concert - RISA Uke Ellie tenor - RISA Solid/Stick tenor
    Concert = Baton Rouge Hotrod - Baton Rouge Sun thinline cutaway - Kala KA-CEME - Kala KA-ASAC
    Tenor = Kala KA-T (fitted with classical guitar strings DGBE)
    Baritone = Lani solid Spruce top - Kala solid Cedar top

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    6,732

    Default

    Through the body is my fave, by far.
    My least favorite is tailpiece stringing, found on some reso units and all banjoukes.
    I don't know why so many people have trouble with through the body re-stringing. It's so easy.
    "Those who bring sunshine and laughter to the lives of others cannot keep it from themselves".

    Music washes from the soul, the dust of everyday living.

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