First build -quilted maple and redwood

'cuz I've no intention of being "self taught" at this. That would be a HUGE mistake. I consider you folks my mentors and coaches. -Gratefully!
 
But keep in mind that there are many approaches to building ukes and most of them work just fine. It is finding what works for you that is important... Yeah, the fundamental lesson that I learned is that while just about everything on an ukulele is rounded and radiused, it still all comes off from the square. An interesting concept if you think about it; arcs gotta be square. Oh and arcs drove the ancient Greeks crazy. They never did really figure it out because an arc contains an infinite amount of tiny squares. It wasn't until Newton invented calculus that the problem was solved. I never did get calculus and you don't need to know calculus to build an ukulele. Happy strumming!
 
...you don't need to know calculus to build an ukulele.

Well, I'm certainly glad for that! My calculus grades would qualify me to sweep the shop floor... maybe!

At this point in my 'career' as luthier-wanna-be I am looking for any ol' approach that I can accomplish. So gratitude is my best color!
 
Working on headstock shape, or peghead head shape. I welcome your opinions about what I've come up with. Gratefully!
 

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I fiddled with the outline some more. Broadened the top corners and rounded them. I think I like it better.
 

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I like the look. It is tough to tell as it may look different once it is cut out, but perhaps try making the shape and the curves even a little more pronounced.
 
Thanks for the help! I'll look at it some more. I used carbon paper to transfer the outline onto 1/4" plywood and had planned to transfer it again onto Plexiglas. There's likely a better way to do this though.
 
This is just the sort of thing that I need to hear: the order of construction, i.e. where to start, on which end, etc. Bless you all!!

Not for nothing, but I usually square up the neck joint after the back is on. Gluing the back on may throw your current 90 degrees off to something else. Since I do a M&T off a neck angle jig, 90 degrees is somewhat irrelevant. For me, square is relevant, in all directions of the neck joint. Since you've squared it up, I'd say double check once the back goes on, and go from there.
 
Been away from ukulele building for some time. Trying to get back into it now. Working on that neck and wondering if there is variation in tuner sizes. Both the diameter of holes to drill and thickness of the peghead ( including veneer). Anybody know quick answer for that? Along with that not sure what a better set of tuners would be? What do y'all use? Thanks once again. :)
 
Simple answer yes.
On open back tuners post diameter is usually to fit either a 6mm or 1/4 inch hole.
Post length varies but will generally be made to fit a 1/2 inch thick headstock.
Sealed planetary and friction tuners are different again. I almost always do my final thickness with the tuners I am going to use in my hand. This may be a function of the fact that I use cheap asian tuners. I have even had the odd mixed bunch where two sets of tuners in the same delivery had different shaft lengths.
 
The other fitting issue with tuners is the sise of the back plate. If you have back plates that are one inch long and you put your holes 25 mm apart they will almost perfectly not quite fit just enough for you to have to resort to just the tiniest bit of filing to make them fit. Bastard imperial measures.... 6mm shafts though....
 
I fiddled with the outline some more. Broadened the top corners and rounded them. I think I like it better.

NICE - I see the TELEO is vertical. I was thinking horizontal and this is so much better. Nice shape headstock.
 
Thank you.

Question on the distance between the nut and the 14th fret, which the plan says is at the body. The plan calls for a very detailed 9.4274 in. Seriously? How do you do that? How does one measure anything close to that?
 
Thank you.

Question on the distance between the nut and the 14th fret, which the plan says is at the body. The plan calls for a very detailed 9.4274 in. Seriously? How do you do that? How does one measure anything close to that?

These are theoretical measurements and not really real world. They are based on the ideal, perfect mathematical scale length. Given all the other variables that the real world imposes, they are meaningless, but all those fractions look cool. Just get it as close as you can. If I hit a +/- 1/64th of an inch tolerance I'm happy. Musical instrument are not precision tools. That is why it is called an art.
 
Okay, I feel like I've accomplished something! As you can see from the photo with the red straight edge, I have to straighten the neck out a little bit. I assume that maybe done incrementally, checking and rechecking the lineup?
 

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Education... So I used double stick tape to put the plexiglass template on top of the inlaid veneer that is glued onto the peghead. Set that upside down on the router table and started in. You can see the results in the photos. One friend says that's why he prefers hand tools. I'm listening. What do you all do? And are there tools at work better than others?

As always, very grateful for this forum!
 

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Probably a more challenging fix...

I welcome any wisdom you may have. I thought perhaps if all else fails I could bevel the edge around the peg head veneer.
 

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Education... So I used double stick tape to put the plexiglass template on top of the inlaid veneer that is glued onto the peghead. Set that upside down on the router table and started in. You can see the results in the photos. One friend says that's why he prefers hand tools. I'm listening. What do you all do? And are there tools at work better than others?

As always, very grateful for this forum!

Absolutely some tools are better for a job than others. The "right tool for the job" makes things go so much easier. On the other hand, sometimes you have to use the tool that is available and there is more than one way to do a job... What I do: I make the peghead slightly oversized and then cut out the profile with a band saw and use files and a spindle sander to finish.
 
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