Oil Rubbed Finish - What Oil To Use?

I have a Martin C1K I just bought, and the Koa on the top and bottom looks a little on the dry side, the reason I say this, because it's suppose to have been an oil rubbed finish, and compared to the sides that show a better sheen, the top and bottom definitely look like they could use a little oil.

Does it really matter the oil I use to rub it down, or best to use what Martin used on it, or different oils are fine?

Can anyone recommend, that really knows, what to do here, what oil, and a method to this?

I've never owned a rubbed finish Uke before, so I assumed I'd be just rubbing in a very light coat as an example and let it dry for like 24-48 hours before applying maybe another light coat, and then letting it dry again for the same period of time, and maybe this is all I do, it needs, just a few light coats?

Thanks


P.S. Since making this post, I now realize my top and bottom of the koa was not rubbed with enough oil, the wood is quite dry, so to complete this 'Prep Step' as I call it, that I want to do, is there any Rubbing Oil for the Finish anyone recommends? Martin said it didn't matter if I mix oils, they use a Urethane Oil Rub, I mention all this in the #6 post below...

These are some of the oils I'm looking at;

Tried & True Original Wood Finish
http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_an...MIi8aGkfjp1wIVioJ-Ch0MDQZxEAQYASABEgLYPPD_BwE

Unearthed Wax Oil - No I'm not buying 2 Liters - I'll email them for a small sample size to buy...
https://www.unearthedpaints.com/collections/wood-finishes/products/hard-wax-oil?variant=103634532

Birchwood Casey Tru Oil
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Wood-Finishing/Tru-Oil®-Stock-Finish.aspx

I just found this video Gordon did at Mya-Moe saying that he uses Planet Waves Lemon Oil, what's everyone's thoughts on this? Hmm

http://www.myamoeukuleles.com/ownerInfo.html#oil

Look for this section

I have a hand-rubbed oil finish. How do I maintain it?
From time-to-time, you can rub on some lemon oil (Planet Waves makes some intended for instruments) which will restore and replenish the finish. Here's a short video on maintaining the oil finish.

https://youtu.be/Yhcr1g12UmI

Or is something like Tru Oil used for upkeep as well? Here's a video on Gordon using Tru Oil, but this video is more about the beginning prep stage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ocS4F6ShNI

Martin website specs on the C1k says the finish is lacquer. From what I've heard, a hand rubbed oil finish is very labor intensive, and as such, would probably only be available from a smaller luthier shop, not on a big factory uke. I wouldn't try oil over a brand new uke's lacquer finish. You could end up with a sticky mess, and might void warranty.

I've had a C1K and it came with satin lacquer finish, so no oil.
You could try a thin coat of renaissance wax.

FinnP said:

I've had a C1K and it came with satin lacquer finish, so no oil.
You could try a thin coat of renaissance wax.

Click to expand...

This is the best and easiest approach, it will give you the sheen you are looking for.

Ukecaster said:

Martin website specs on the C1k says the finish is lacquer. From what I've heard, a hand rubbed oil finish is very labor intensive, and as such, would probably only be available from a smaller luthier shop, not on a big factory uke. I wouldn't try oil over a brand new uke's lacquer finish. You could end up with a sticky mess, and might void warranty.

Click to expand...

The post was not a question of whether I have a hand rubbed Uke or lacquer finish, I know this is hand rubbed, holding it in my hands and looking at it, that's clear to see.

Not sure where you're see that, if you look at the 'Specs' it does state 'Hand Rubbed';

https://www.martinguitar.com/guitars/ukulele/c1k-uke/

I called Martin two different times and each rep stated that it is a hand rubbed oil finish.

Also one of the reps stated it's a Urethane Oil Rub they use on the C1k, and that it didn't matter if I mixed oils and used some other Oil Rub for the finish.

This rep said that Martin uses this 'Unearthed Wax Oil for a rub finish on one of their guitars and that I could also use it too;

https://www.unearthedpaints.com/collections/wood-finishes/products/hard-wax-oil?variant=

I don't know about this Unearthed product, but Martin uses it, and it seems to work for them.

Since the Oil Rub wasn't done very good for the top and bottom, before I do anything else, I want this 'Prep Step' completed by me doing a nice oil rub finish on it, then one day down the road when this is wearing, drying out, I'll do something else, probably as Gordon from Mya-Moe uses, the Planetary Waves Lemon Oil on the body.

FinnP said:

I've had a C1K and it came with satin lacquer finish, so no oil.
You could try a thin coat of renaissance wax.

Click to expand...

Martin now uses an Oil Rubbed finish, not sure what year yours is, or when they stopped it, but they are no longer lacquer finish.

Bill1 said:

The unearthed floor polish looks good. The main problem is needing to buy a big $128 tin of it. Look for a much smaller and lower cost tin of a similar product. About a table spoon of that polish will be enough to last you maybe five years of polishing a single concert sized uke.
The finish applied by Martin is designed to last 100 years as it is, you really don't need anything else. I suggest you put some effort into looking for some music you want to play, find some videos or CDs and put the time into listening/learning and trust the martin finishing shop workers. Just start playing your new uke.

Click to expand...

LOL, there's a drop down menu for 375ML at $29 and yes even that's to much. If I'm going to buy this product I will email them and explain the situation and see if I can just buy a small bottle of it...

First, I'm going to assume that Martin has given you the right information. If they are using a Urethane/Oil product, also typically called Polyurethane, then none of the choices listed is what you want. They are all oil only and will provide minimal protection. What I would suggest you try instead is a product like Watco Danish Oil Finish (which is really a blend of linseed oil and polyurethane varnish), which would do the job. Given how Martin has described their finish it should be compatible. BUT -- whatever you use, try it first on another piece of similar wood that is not your Martin C1K. This will give you an idea of what the results will look like before you commit to putting it on your prized possession.

Uke Don said:

First, I'm going to assume that Martin has given you the right information. If they are using a Urethane/Oil product, also typically called Polyurethane, then none of the choices listed is what you want. They are all oil only and will provide minimal protection. What I would suggest you try instead is a product like Watco Danish Oil Finish (which is really a blend of linseed oil and polyurethane varnish), which would do the job. Given how Martin has described their finish it should be compatible. BUT -- whatever you use, try it first on another piece of similar wood that is not your Martin C1K. This will give you an idea of what the results will look like before you commit to putting it on your prized possession.

Click to expand...

Just because a product used by Martin is Urethane/Oil based, you don't have to stick to a Urethane product for doing an Oil Rub.

So I'm not sure why you think the products I list below are not good.

Birchwood Casey Tru Oil is used for Oil Rub and as I mentioned Martin said they use the Unearthed Wax Oil and that it would be fine to use on the C1K.

Not sure if you've read up on the Unearthed Wax Oil, it's an all natural product and it won't change the wood color too...

I'm haggling with Unearthed, trying to get them to sell me just a few ounces.

To go back and forth between a Polyurethane product or a 100% natural oil product is fine to switch, that's not the issue here, I'm just trying to figure out what is popular amongst musicians and luthiers in an oil rub product is all.

I've been doing some heavy research online and I came across this Chap in the UK Kevin Aram, classic guitar builder;

http://aramguitars.co.uk/the-guitars.shtml

I read that he uses Lebron Finishing Oil;

http://www.liberon.co.uk/product/finishing-oil/

So I'm just seeing what's happening surfing the web, and then running into builders and discussions on this topic around the world, pretty interesting.

I read Kevin Aram likes this oil because he calls it Sonically Transparent, not effecting tonal quality...

Anyhow I'm just reading and researching for now, thought I'd just share this.

I'm waiting for a reply back from him to see what he has to say on this Liberon, but it appears to be a oil/varnish, which is something I don't want...

Hmm

AlohaKine,

I'm wondering if this is a new purchase from Martin and why you don't send it back and have them replace or refinish if you're not happy. I'm assuming its second hand if you're wanting to tackle this project.

Concerning the project-
I dont know how much help I can be but I have actually done the tru-oil finish process as shown by Gordon. The key is to keep changing your rags so there is no drag. The drag happens and you get a new rag so there arent any drag marks. This creates a very thin finish. Gordon only puts on 4 coats but you can add as many as you like. It is a satin look. I don't know if it is compatible to add to what is already there but contact Gordon by email and he will give you good advice.

Also, I have used the planet waves lemon oil too. Not to be mistaken with fretboard oil that we call lemon oil or grocery store lemon oil or furniture polish. It also goes on very very light and doesn't make much of a difference in the look that is already there. I think of it as a conditioning.

If this was my project I would contact Stewmac. There is a place on their site at the bottom. Contact us/Technical advice.
Tell them exactly what you're trying to accomplish. Give them all the information about the project and questions you might have (high gloss/satin/added condition etc.) and if possible include pictures or links of the uke and what you're trying to achieve. The tech will contact you back and tell you what he thinks you should do. I've done this before too and they are very helpful.

Hope this helps just a little,
Linda

It's a new Uke and not as much oil has been applied to the top and bottom as the sides. I would not call it dry to the bone, but it certainly could use more, there's like no sheen to the top and bottom, but it's not a problem that I do this...

Actually lelouden, you have me thinking here, I'll call Martin and explain this and have them send me out something, or this Unearthed Wax Oil I mention below.

The instrument is amazing, I did a review on it, check it out.

I watched a video Gordon did with Tru Oil...

I also looked over Stew Mac's site to see what they had in the way of oils.

I later mentioned somewhere in the post that Martin uses on one of their guitars this Unearthed Wax Oil;

https://www.unearthedpaints.com/collections/wood-finishes/products/hard-wax-oil?variant=103634532

They have a 375ML amount you can buy, so when I call Martin, if they don't cough up sending me something and I would think they will, I'm looking into buying some of this.

I like that this is 100% natural, no chemicals and if Martin is using, and they said this would be good, then I'm game on, but I'd still love to hear what others have to say...

Thanks

After reading how the unearthed is applied it makes sense that the top and back seem dry. It's probable that they only used one coat and your uke drank it up.

Taken from the unearthed site-

APPLICATION:

Apply a thin coat of Hard Wax Oil with a cloth, brush, or roller. Do not apply too thickly, or pour directly onto surface. After the product has set for 20 minutes, polish the surface thoroughly with a dry, lint-free cloth until the treated surface shows an even, semi-gloss appearance. It is very important that no excess oil remains on the surface. Excess oil will lead to a rough, sticky surface. The oil should penetrate the wood and any excess should be removed during polishing.

Most applications require only one coat of Hard Wax Oil. Highly absorbent woods (i.e. soft woods such as pine) may require two coats. In some cases, the wood may become rough after the first coat. If the wood is rough, you should sand again before applying the second coat.

If desired, you can achieve a glossier finish with added durability by following with Unearthed Carnauba Wax Emulsion.

The wax emulsion is probably the fix you need but if Martin will send you a small amount to add a second coat that would be ideal. If a second coat doesnt bring it to the place you want you might contact Unearthed and ask them if they would send you a sample if the emulsion (wouldnt hurt to ask for a sample of the Hard Wax Oil too). A tiny bit would cover your uke.

Martin doesn't use this product on the Mexico Ukes, they use a Urethane based oil in Mexico.

The Unearthed is used on a USA Guitar.

To be honest I only read a little on the Unearthed site over this, and this doesn't sound like something I might want after all. Sounds like this stuff needs to be really stirred up, which makes me worry about even distrubtion of it, meaning, if I didn't stir or shake it good enough, to much of one material across the Uke... Hmm

This one coat idea, not sure that's going to bring out enough sheen.

It looks like Gordon over at Mya-Moe uses Tru Oil.

Need to do some more research and thinking.

Thanks