More time and $'s on setup or go newer, more expensive?

JohnRC

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I have been on Maui for the last 4 weeks and trying out a large number of K ukuleles and others, tenors and concerts.

There are some wonderful instruments here but what I noticed most is how easy it is to play expensive ones. The action on them is so refined. I am guessing that most of the cost is reflected in just how much time has been spent on setting them up.

Back home I have a solid Koa tenor which I like very much. It has a great sound and it has survived the adjustment to a slightly less damp atmosphere in Vancouver, Canada.

There are two ukuleles here that I would like to buy but I would like to try and figure out how much better the one at home can be become with more work.

What are some of the considerations I need to look at or think about?
Thanks in advance.
John
 
String height at the nut & bridge, & what strings are on it would be a starting point; but you can always buy another uke to use in the meantime. ;)
 
String height at the nut & bridge, & what strings are on it would be a starting point; but you can always buy another uke to use in the meantime. ;)

Dido and dido. I have had ukes set up after the fact and it will and does make a difference.
 
Been on Maui for the last four weeks? Argh! Who cares about your ukulele issues, you lucky person!

(You know you're going to buy one, but a good setup helps , of course.)
 
I went through the process of adding water to my ukulele humidifiers tonight. I have six ukuleles that require humidification, and I played them all. I like all of them (and there are more laminate ukuleles in my house), but when I get to my best ukuleles (KoAloha Opio Concert and Tenor), the sound is just so much above the others—even though the other four ukuleles are solid wood instruments that I like very much.

My guess is that you are enjoying the sound that comes from those K ukuleles versus just the set-up. I don’t know if they set up the ukuleles before they hit the sales floor, but I have followed The Ukulele Site close enough to know that the K brands need set-ups, too, and that there are duds in those instruments, too (A video from the Kamaka factory, for example, stopped by the “needs service” instruments that had been rejected along the way).

I’d say this: I am going to go to Hawaii someday and when I do, I will be buying at least one ukulele as a playing souvenir from my trip. I purposely have not bought a Koa instrument for that reason. Sure, they may cost more in Hawaii (I’d be a tourist), but that would make the ukulele very special.

So...buy it if it makes you happy. Unless you get back to Hawaii all the time...and if that is the case, just go and play the one you like the most until they offer a deal to keep you out of the store! :)
 
I have been on Maui for the last 4 weeks and trying out a large number of K ukuleles and others, tenors and concerts.

There are some wonderful instruments here but what I noticed most is how easy it is to play expensive ones. The action on them is so refined. I am guessing that most of the cost is reflected in just how much time has been spent on setting them up.

Back home I have a solid Koa tenor which I like very much. It has a great sound and it has survived the adjustment to a slightly less damp atmosphere in Vancouver, Canada.

There are two ukuleles here that I would like to buy but I would like to try and figure out how much better the one at home can be become with more work.

What are some of the considerations I need to look at or think about?
Thanks in advance.
John

Considerations:
Does the factory setup the instrument, or did the dealer?

What makes it easier to play? Action, strings. . . . . . . . neck shape (of course I had to add that one in)?

Most instruments could stand setup work, unless its a custom, which should be setup for the client. This means if you've never had your instrument setup, it could probably use a bill thrown in that direction.
 
You're in Hawaii, the home of the ukulele. Buy one whilst you're there! Certainly a pipe dream of mine to do just that and I've got plenty of ukes at home.
 
Lovely! I dream about going to Hawaii often. mmstan lives there, look him up! He has lots of ukes. You might be able to talk him out of one, for less than a new one!
I would think that ukulele shopping in Hawaii would be more fun than hanging ten!
 
The thing to do is to identify the areas in which your current instrument doesn't match up to the ones you like. Realistically, some things you can change a lot, some things you can change a little, some things you can't really change significantly.

Things you can change a lot:
  • Playability
    You can change action at the bridge and the saddle, level and polish frets, adjust neck relief (easy with a truss rod, difficult but possible without).
  • Cosmetics
    Depends how much time and work/money you want to spend on finishing and bling.

Things you can change only a little:
  • Volume and tone
    The differences you can make with string changes and changes in technique don't alter the fundamental character of your instrument.

Things you can't really change without getting drastic and expensive:
  • The shape and size of your uke
  • The weight
    An uncomfortable instrument for your size and build is just what it is and you can't do much about that.

Stuff in the first category just takes time and work if you have the tools and experience. If you don't then it takes money and the advice/services of a good tech, repair guy or luthier.

Stuff in the second category takes time, trial, error and some cost if you experiment with strings.

Stuff in group 3 is what it is.

IMO, every instrument deserves a good setup and should not be judged without one. Some modest instruments can be great with the right setup.

That said, There is a point where you just have to admit if your instrument just doesn't match up to what you want. Only one person can decide that.
 
You must buy the best one you can find while you're there. Then have the instrument you left at home set up buy a reputable technician. Then you tell us which is more worthwhile.
 
I was just going to add that experienced acoustic guitarists typically know the measurements that define what they like in a guitar. It's especially important for them when they get a new guitar to have it set up to match what they like. The parameters include:

Scale length
Nut width
Action at the nut
Action at the 12th fret
Relief

So, I was going to suggest that if you come across a uke where you really like the way it plays, try to get some measurements. Some of these are hard to get unless you have the right tools, but perhaps a shop would be willing to help. That would give you something to discuss with a tech if you eventually would like to get your uke set up. For example, many ukes come standard with at least 0.030" action at the nut, but dropping that to between 0.020" and 0.015" makes an amazing difference in playing a Bb chord. You also might find that a uke with a 38 mm nut width is a lot easier for some chords than a 35 mm nut. That one you can't change on your existing uke, but it gives you a guide for the next purchase.
 
I was just going to add that experienced acoustic guitarists typically know the measurements that define what they like in a guitar. It's especially important for them when they get a new guitar to have it set up to match what they like. The parameters include:

Scale length
Nut width
Action at the nut
Action at the 12th fret
Relief

So, I was going to suggest that if you come across a uke where you really like the way it plays, try to get some measurements. Some of these are hard to get unless you have the right tools, but perhaps a shop would be willing to help. That would give you something to discuss with a tech if you eventually would like to get your uke set up. For example, many ukes come standard with at least 0.030" action at the nut, but dropping that to between 0.020" and 0.015" makes an amazing difference in playing a Bb chord. You also might find that a uke with a 38 mm nut width is a lot easier for some chords than a 35 mm nut. That one you can't change on your existing uke, but it gives you a guide for the next purchase.
I agree that most ukuleles benefit from a setup, but I agree with besley. I got a ukulele that was set up, and I was not happy with it. I got it set up again. But I didn't know at the time what I liked. That was how the person who set it up thought that it should be. I think that a lot of people are like that. They just assume that someone else knows how it should be. There should be a point where the ukulele player knows how they want their ukuleles set up. I would ask anyone offering to set up a ukulele for me if they can set it up to my specifications. If they can't do that for me, it's not a setup.
 
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Great point, Besley....and Rllink's post further illustrates this. I just disagree with the last part. I'd say it's still a setup, just not a personalized setup.
Don't forget fret size and height either. That plays a role in the feel of an instrument, but that is all build and not setup after the fact. Plus, the variation with what string you use too. If you don't know the exact strings you're going to stick with it, it can't be fully customized. Most of us like to experiment with strings after buying a new uke. That's where learning and knowing how to do some of your own work can come in handy. You can fine tune things. Otherwise, find the strings you like and then take it and have it fine tuned with those to get to whatever specs you're after.

Most places that offer the free setup are just doing a basic setup that would work for a lot of people. That is still way better than the factory setup on a lot of ukes. When they're doing that basic setup, they are also ideally looking for and finding any build faults with the instrument.

A lot of people are perfectly happy with the standard setup offered by the better vendors. I think that's fine. Some of us like to tinker and dial things in more. That's fine too....whatever works for the individual.
 
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My parameters:

Scale length 17" (432mm) plus required compensation.
Nut width 38mm (1.5")
Action at the nut 0.015"
Action at the 12th fret 2.5mm
Relief 0.005"
Fingerboard Radius 14"

The only stock uke that gets me close is Pono, since they have a 16" radius on the fretboard (but a narrow nut at 34.5mm).

Very curious as to what others prefer.
 
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