Flight Travel Series TUS50 Soprano - REVIEW

Flight TUS50 looks and sounds great, but it has a compensated saddle. As a lefty, I would need to flip the strings (don't suggest otherwise - this is what works for me). Would that saddle cause any issues?

I'm no expert, but this ukulele is a re-entrant one. So the bridge is not really suitable for low-G.
As for flipping the strings, you effectively flip the thickest strings in the middle and then the thinnest outer strings with each other. From looking at the pictures, my guess would be that it should work quite ok?

I ordered one to myself, but I am right handed. Can see better how the bridge is, when it arrives.
 
I agree with Jarmo - this has a heavily compensated bridge saddle which will throw out intonation if you re order the strings. With removable saddles that can be sorted with a new saddle cut in reverse, but the saddle on these in instagral and moulded into bridge,

I just don’t see how you could change it easily for leftie. Sorry

There is a close up pic of bridge in the written review which shows what I mean.
 
I’m wondering if someone couldn’t 3D print a saddle, taken from the original measurements, and then printed from a mirror image?

We still haven’t figured out why Martin’s saddle works, which to logic seems to be wrongly compensated on two of the strings. Could you get a Martin saddle (new stock) and try it in the Flight?
 
I was actually of the mind that because G and A are usually not so different in thickness that they could be flipped. And also though that maybe C and E too. Of course not a perfect solution. And I did not think of a possibility that the C string might be set at a higher action than E.

Mysterious things these compensations, that Martin saddle too. Which brings also a question of to what kind of strings is a particular saddle compensated? Like if Flight TUS50 comes with Aquila Nylgut strings, how will the intonation change when using thinner strings with more density. Maybe the relative chording intonation higher up the neck will be ok at least for all fretted chords, but perhaps at least 5 cents off possibilty at 12th fret. Well 5 cents is nothing.
 
The problem here is that you can’t just swap the saddle part . The whole thing is one piece, and if they are anything like the old Flea one piece saddles, they are a devil to get off.

So having a left Compensated saddle piece isn’t going to help you - you’d need to recreate the whole bridge in reverse.
 
I wrongly thought the saddle was removeable. I didn’t realize that it was one piece with the bridge. I guess you have to hope that you like the action when you order one!
 
I ordered one on Tuesday from Music Room in UK and got it Friday--on the west coast. It came to less than $58 delivered. Sounds good, looks good, plays easy, I'm happy. It's living next to my bed.
 
I wrongly thought the saddle was removeable. I didn’t realize that it was one piece with the bridge. I guess you have to hope that you like the action when you order one!

Thankfully because they are made to a mould template, and unlike things like the Waterman, it doesn’t flex or dip - so the action on all of them ‘should’ be the same. Of course, you are right though - that only places it within a range that people prefer, and adjusting it is hard (though doable - the old Fleas were like that and I know many who took action down)

Still - on this one, the action is dead playable for me - very comfortable
 
I got my TUS-50 from Thomann today. Looks great and sounds ok.

It weighs more than I expected. My laminated Kala KA-CEM concert size uke, despite being a whole lot bigger, weighs on feel less maybe. I don't have a scale to be sure.
The flat bottom of Flea would be welcome for this too, because any which way I keep it on my couch the tuner knobs will always come in contact with it. Thus it is always best to check the tuning before playing.

The C and E strings are slightly higher action than G and A strings as expected, the saddle design. The 12th fret note of A seems 10 cent sharp wtf, but could be also some body resonance or bad string or my Android DaTuner app, so I can't say more at the moment. Strings look like Aquila nylguts in color, but are not specified in the cardboard box it came in.

G and A string distance at nut is 2 mm wider than in Kala concert, which it is good because of the shorter scale. Scale length is specified as 350 mm, but I measured from zero fret to where G or A string meet the saddle the string free length to be 355 mm.
 
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I have been now playing this for a 5 days and some experiences:

1. Noticed today that fret painting stuff is going away from under strings as bazmaz suspected.

2. The sound when fingerpicked is sustained and loud yes, but I am not a fingerpicker and when strumming, the chords while having volume are more mellow than with my Kala KA-CEM. So I can't hear as well the chord differences especially with my quite low voice same time. I don't have much of a nail in index finger though. Might have also something to do with the lower tension of strings. It is not that biggie, because ukulele for me is also a rhythm instrument.

3. With this lower tension in a soprano I have to be careful, to not bend chord notes sharp. There is another catch that this ukulele teaches you too somewhat to be careful. The frets are not as wide as they could be, but there is maybe 1.5 mm to the side of the fretboard without the plastic fret. So it is very easy to erroneously bend the string in a difficult chord out of the fret for G and A strings. Does not feel good either when that happens, but that is because of the careless play/technique.

4. Perhaps the bowl shape back helps for sound projection, but for me it does not give as solid anchor to my body as a flat back and when playing I notice some swinging when strumming. I can fix it by tilting the headstock somewhat forward.

Well those are mostly maybe negative sounding comments, but I actually like this though. Especially for melody solo play this has a great sound.
 
I'd agree on point 2 (in fact I agree with all points) but on 2 in particular - I am sure a string change would brighten it. It's essentially built like a Flea and I recall not liking Nylguts on that either. I found a change to Worth Browns on that gave it a lot more zing when strummed. Might be worth a change?

Re point 4 - this is a common gripe from Flea owners too - many seem to have solved it by attaching sticky felt pad strips to the back which create friction against the body. Cheap and easy idea to try.
 
Yes, I might try those or some other fluorocarbon strings that I can get from a local music store. Seems the strings need be changed so seldom, there is no real reason for me to order online and pay costly postal handling excess.
Only thing is that those are thinner and I question myself of how the compensated saddle works with them.

One interesting thing. This TUS-50 seems to have some resonance frequency that I think is slightly lower than A4 (440 Hz). So I need according to my clip-on tuner and also according to my DaTuner android app tune slightly lower than A4 for the fretted notes of the A string to be in tune. I will then notice also a difference in 12th fret pressed and harmonic. I first suspected nut filing, but today I tuned all the strings a semitone higher and the problem is gone.

This might be more common with louder instruments. I remember when I borrowed a Flight NUS-310 soprano from a local library and how wild my tuner reacted to some notes. It was also I think a soprano with sustain. Darn those natural resonances of the body.

And yet another thing I needed to learn. I can keep this on my living room couch ready to play by keeping the string side of the neck against to couch back rest. That is the only way I know to keep the tuner knobs out of contact ;)
 
Yes there is that, but bear in mind there is a zero fret too, so half the potential issue has gone away. I’d reckon so long as you don’t go massively thinner, you should be fine. Worth mediums perhaps?
 
I forgot that zero fret, about the nut filings lool comment.

Anyways how I see it and as you said too, a heavily compensated saddle/bridge thing. Made for Aquila nylguts perhaps. And for other strings, better not so much?
My Kala concert I restrung it with Aquila strings too, because it was bought from "brick and mortar store". No compensation and I think it also works because sopranos need that and larger scale instruments, especially tenors not so.

Kala works fine without because it has a really low action. Good intonation without any saddle compensation. Something like 2.2 mm at 12th fret, but can't be sure. Anyways it is almost too low and I notice some buzz when finger playing hard, for strumming it is ok and a light to play in all my 12 keys chord progression practices.

About Flight TUS-50, it has a an action of maybe 2.75 mm at 12th, perhaps that is why also heavily compensated. Almost non existent relief when pressing 1st fret and 12th fret and in between space. It is so straight. Maybe a lower action would not need such a saddle compensation, or work with other kind of strings?

If you kept it and tried fluorocarbon strings, let us know?

Anyways this is so cheap ukulele and works just fine with the strings it came with. Though that resonance of A is so loud I am worried sometimes about damaging my hearing. It is so overpowering. Not with strumming, but with playing melodies with my thumb. Darn resonance :p
 
I did - I put a set of Worth Clear mediums on it last night - they work just fine - no intonation issues.

However - important caveat - no intonation issues that I can hear personally - some peoples ears are more sensitive than others, so you may perceive something. It is however, perfectly acceptable to me.

Ultimately though - strings are pretty cheap - i'd always try a set - if they don't work out - swap back to the Aquilas.
 
I just ordered a pair of Freemont blackline for mine. I hope they are a good fit.
 
Thank you very much Barry, I think that is your name, for the suggestions. I will remember your words and suggestion. Next buy will be the fluorocarbons you told, but not maybe anytime soon, I have spare soprano nylgut strings going to my either uke, will not maybe wait until a string breaks and yes these in TUS-50 are from factory, but I am frugal.

One thing that comes to my mind is, that C and E strings are set a little higher action. I can still see it at 12th fret. So if a C chord is strummed and and pressed at the 3rd fret, it might not sound the same as if the strings were just plain flat without compensation.

I found this link of sound comparison and don't notice any big difference between fluorocarbons and nylguts in brightness but of course there are other factors, like can the fluorocarbons have more tension? It is something I would like maybe.
https://kitarablogi.com/2017/11/01/ukulele-strings-nylgut-or-fluorocarbon/

Also I think strumming at 10th fret might be a good option I will test. In general I have found that getting chords clean on soprano scale will help perhaps the concert scale playing as a bonus.
 
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I took a picture of mine, thinking that the head shape of mine might be somewhat "less wide" looking than yours. Might be also somewhat darker top and head.

Most fret paint has been lost around under A string 2nd and 3rd fret and then under C string and E string 2nd fret from my playing. You might all think of yourselves as fine chorders, but something like this ukulele will reveal the truth lol. I must same time say though that the strings that it came with ( Aquila nylguts? ) feel quite floppy.

I don't bend strings sideways on purpose. I do play common chord sequences with this uke on all 12 keys. Some are more stressful though no way as much as with a guitar, but might explain the wear that way too ;)

Anyways you readers can see it as size comparison to Kala KA-CEM concert uke. Picture is not the best quality and is my first picture to forum. Turned out rotated 90 degrees anticlockwise. Somehow wish the forum pictures could be watched while not logged in.
 
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Headstock looks identical to mine. They are all from the same neck mould so can't differ. The wood can look different though i guess.
 
I changed the strings to Martin M600 fluorocarbon strings and I am very happy to have done so. The intonation is accurate despite these being thinner strings than the original Aquila ones.

Fluorocarbons have more sustain and slightly less volume than nylguts. Enable playing chords also higher up the fretboard. Soloing is much easier, because of the the thinner strings the fretting is more accurate. The frets are felt.

Actually with nylguts I got many times false notes from chromatic Boss TU-01 clip-on tuner from fretted notes. Also from the DaTuner app.
Now I can tune the problematic A string to the pitch without some neighbourhood resonance frequency bothering too much. The open string A4 note still sounds somewhat too loud in my opinion though in my TUS-50, but less so than with nylguts.
 
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