Laminating sides

That is a very thick finished side. Are you working on the Australian model of guitar building where all the energy is in the top? Can't think why you would go to the trouble of laminating...

Yes- everything is in the top.

However, there are certain instances where stiff sides would be a liability to producing a specific sound- Ie, what is desirable (well, absolutely needed) to a player of Flamenco music- ie- fast attack, but with no sustain. Flamenco guitars achieve this by using for the back/side (most often) Cypress which is a very soft, flexible wood that absorbs the tops radiated vibrations. As Flamenco has the most aggressive playing style in its rasgueado technique, no or very little sustain is an absolute must.



In short- Flexible Sides built with "soft woods" (Cypress being one of the most soft and flexible hard woods) are the best choice if you do fast strumming, and rasgueado technique (which is also in Hawaiian music)

Stiff sides- best build method for an instrument for mostly fingerstyle playing and chordal work where you want a lot of overtones, long sustain, deep rich notes and attack.

The back is mostly a reflector, unless you build it with soft woods with little bracing which adds to absorbing effect of flexible sides.

Other benefits of solid laminated sides- stronger, less cracks, time saved with no side splints, and a lot of time saved with not having to sand the sides flat as they dont corrugated like single solid sides. Also, the mass of lam sides adds to the vibrating area of the top being closer to the perimeter...ie, you get a bigger sound baby.

Mic drop :)
 
Interesting. I am just completing a uke in Alaskan Cedar... bit like cypress. We'll see how it turns out. Not 100% convinced you can apply this sophisticated guitar making technology to ukes. I get plenty of volume, rarely have any problem with springback or crinkled sides. However I am going to mock up the tyre method just to see if I can make it work for you by trying it out on my dew drop shape.
 
I saw this in an old woodwork book when I was in college. The author used a fired hose... I think it would work well if you bent the sides accurately and then simply used the 'press' to bring the parts together. 'Press' is not a good term but the only one I can think of.
 
So here i have two versions of laminating sides using molds.
The first mold I made was a full 4" deep (ie- deeper than any uke side) which was to be used as a dedicated laminating mold. I wanted to make more but realised that making more this way is a waste and takes up twice as much space on the shelves.

My second version is to simply add (with screws) a temporary layer of 3/4" ply to my 5 existing tenor uke molds- far less lpy is used and the sides are laminated using the mold they will stay in until boxed up.

Full depth + an extension piece at the end.
View attachment 108084

New version with temporary layer that after lamination is glued, is unscrewed and saved for the next batch of laminated sides. The same mold is used for the build duration for the sides that were bent in that particular mold (in this case #2). I Always put the temp layer on the "top", and mark 'A' and 'B', so it is impossible to accidently bend two bass sides.
View attachment 108085

Different angle showing some simple registration marks so the correct temp layer goes onto the correct mold number and correct side.
View attachment 108086

Ply strips with cork so the inner side doesn't get bruised. The other way (which i'm yet to try) is to have a more fuller inner insert to clamp two- but once you make one of these you have to stick with the same thickness of layers in your sides...im still fine tunning what i like in side thickness- at the moment im .070"-.070"-.020"- the 3rd decorative layer isn't necessary if you use a good looking wood for the 2nd layer.
View attachment 108087

How i place the cork/ply strips- clamping gets tight so get creative. Also note- when started using the temp layer, i dont bother to use an extension piece of ply- but i do make sure i put a cork/ply strip RIGHT at the end.
View attachment 108088
Ukes are so small, is there a noticeable difference in overall side stiffness with laminated sides vs reversed kerfing and multiple side bracings?
(Especially, if an arm bevel is installed?)
 
Top Bottom