Ukulele Repair.. Crack

Return it and have MGM hook you up.
 
Was just curious if anyone has ever had a crack such as this repaired, and how much trouble was it? I am considering buying a factory second that has a similar type of crack (or a seam that could open into one like is shown in the OP's pics), and don't know how much I should worry about such a crack along the edge of the body and the binding.
 
That's quite an easy repair by the looks of it. Some glue, clamps and let it sit for at least a day and all should be fine. Any decent shop with a workshop should be able to do this, can't believe the seller didn't... Says a lot... For a shop to fix this and make it look neat, you could be charged more than $25.

When you purchase an old uke though, the binding might have shrunk and it may not fit perfectly anymore, so you might end up with a little gap between the beginning and end of the strip of binding.

In the above case the seller should have described this "flaw" more accurately and included a picture. This is not a finish flaw - I don't even believe this would leave the factory like that.
 
I don't even believe this would leave the factory like that.

The original poster bought this as a factory second. I am also considering a factory second with a similar flaw as to the one pictured. In my case, it is fully disclosed and the seller (the builder, in fact) is completely open about it. I happen to know very little about cracks, so I am just interested in how much of a potential issue I might be getting myself into. Thanks for input.

Cheers,
 
I am also considering a factory second with a similar flaw as to the one pictured. In my case, it is fully disclosed and the seller (the builder, in fact) is completely open about it. I happen to know very little about cracks, so I am just interested in how much of a potential issue I might be getting myself into.

Josh, you might go to Todd at Portland Fretworks for at least a post-purchase inspection. He is arguably the best luthier in town and a good guy too. I would never let a blemish or potential minor repair keep me from buying an instrument that speaks to my heart.
 
Josh, you might go to Todd at Portland Fretworks for at least a post-purchase inspection. He is arguably the best luthier in town and a good guy too. I would never let a blemish or potential minor repair keep me from buying an instrument that speaks to my heart.

Thanks for the advice, that is really helpful!
 
Josh, you might go to Todd at Portland Fretworks for at least a post-purchase inspection. He is arguably the best luthier in town and a good guy too. I would never let a blemish or potential minor repair keep me from buying an instrument that speaks to my heart.

Todd is the guy; but be aware that as a craftsman the work is not inexpensive. I was quoted $55-$125 to lower the action on a uke. I'm sure the work would have been top notch, but that was the price.
 
I still doubt that it would leave the factory like that because it could have been fixed there easily. Often these sort of things happen in the shop or in transit, but anyway. The point is that is generally easy to fix and yes if a luthier were to fix it, you'd pay $55 unless you have a friendly local store, that is willing to do it cheaper. Maybe a local woodworker / cabinet maker you know can do the job. All it is some glue, wipe off excess glue, clamp and wait.
 
I buy 2nds all the time and fix them up. if you scrape out the old glue can you seat the binding or is it to long? If you can seat it, buy some plastic binding glue from Stewart Mcdonald and some binding tape and glue it with as little glue as you can, don;t want any oozes if possible. Slight heat from a hair dryer will make the plastic more pliable. Big rubber bands or elastic also work well for clamping the binding while the glue sets. If you look on the Stewart McDonald web site they have instructions on how to install binding. Just don't over do the glue as it will ooze over the finish and you will then have to buy some lacquer and read on how to spot refinish after you scrape the oozing off.
 
Top Bottom