Another option for joining tops and backs

BR Ukuleles

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I've had these Qoins for about a year now, and use them occasionally for all sorts of tasks. Quoins are from the printing industry. Probably pretty much antiques now. Used to clamp lead type into place.

Today I was documenting some other builds going on in the shed so snapped a picture of a new Tenor that I'm starting. Though that some might find it useful. I got mine on eBay if you think you might like to try them out. Not all that expensive.

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I'm pretty certain it is Pete. I've had it on the shelf for about 4 years now. Got it in a grab bag of wood during an OLF swap meet. $5 per orphaned guitar side set. Turns out to be just perfect for a tenor uke.:D

I'm uncertain of what to do with the trim on this one. Was looking through the Hobbit House Wood ID Site and see that Paduak will turn a deep purple brown if exposed to UV. I had thought that black would be the way to go, but perhaps not.
 
Only if it is the African variety... if the sawdust is orange it is most likely to be African. If it is red then that is a different matter altogether and you have the much rarer Andaman variety which retains its redness.... I use faux tortois shell on my dark instruments.
 
There's nothing quite as easy as the tape hinge, tape tension method of joining backs and tops, especially using hot hide glue. You're not limited to only doing a few at a time; I've done twenty sets at a time; you can join as many as you've got tape for, and you can also easily join irregular sized plates. Frankly, I don't know why everybody doesn't do it this way. It's just so easy!
 
There's nothing quite as easy as the tape hinge, tape tension method of joining backs and tops, especially using hot hide glue. You're not limited to only doing a few at a time; I've done twenty sets at a time; you can join as many as you've got tape for, and you can also easily join irregular sized plates. Frankly, I don't know why everybody doesn't do it this way. It's just so easy!

I've tried to turn my friends on to the tape hinge method, with not much luck. Its so simple I don't think they trust it. I think I picked up the technique from Dan Erlewine eons ago.

BTW, I'm having a boat load of trouble with my website. If it ain't one thing, its two.
 
There's nothing quite as easy as the tape hinge, tape tension method of joining backs and tops, especially using hot hide glue. You're not limited to only doing a few at a time; I've done twenty sets at a time; you can join as many as you've got tape for, and you can also easily join irregular sized plates. Frankly, I don't know why everybody doesn't do it this way. It's just so easy!

The tape tent method is the way I join about 95% of the tops I do. I was running out of my binding tape and had a couple of sets of bindings to install over the weekend, so was saving it for that until the next order showed up. And as others say, many are just unsure of it's merits. Even some of the old crusty luthiers with years of experience on this forum I'm sure don't trust it.
 
I use a sort of tape hinge method on the lower bout butt joint..I take the sides out of the mould to do it, I use a heavy duty electricians tape stretched across the lower bout....glue and clamp the tailblock at the same time..then when the glue cures I put it back in the mould to fit the neck block....this method gives me a nice tight butt joint and no need for a stripe or veneer strip.
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This message is for Ken. I would have sent private message if I figured out how. Ken, I watched your YouTube video under the title ukulele building, nice tight butt. I experimented with that and the blade I'm using is burning its way through the quilted maple sides. I talked to somebody and they said that perhaps 10 TPI is too fine. Or dull or perhaps I need a skip tooth blade? You're talking to somebody who really doesn't know a lot about what he's doing. What blade do you use for that process? Thank you so much.
 
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