What's happening in your shed?

PLEASE, please reply with opinions, advice, strong cautions, outright but good natured heckles and predictions. A virtual wager pool comes to mind but that's a discussion for another day. . .
Cheers!
Clark [Oldscruggsfan]
Canton, GA USA
First of all I'm wondering what a "slight concavity" is on this soprano sound board. Pictures with a straight edge layed along the top showing the dip would be great... I think your jack idea is okay, but how are you going to straighten out the concavity one you get it flat? You can't leave that stuff in there and like John said, a post is going to really kill your sound... Personally I wouldn't worry about it unless it is really bad. Send pictures.
 
First of all I'm wondering what a "slight concavity" is on this soprano sound board. Pictures with a straight edge layed along the top showing the dip would be great... I think your jack idea is okay, but how are you going to straighten out the concavity one you get it flat? You can't leave that stuff in there and like John said, a post is going to really kill your sound... Personally I wouldn't worry about it unless it is really bad. Send pictures.
Thanks for the response. Low point is less than 1/16th inch / 1.75mm lower than the edges. Sorry, I’m presently unable to post a pic.
 
Thanks,
I dont recomend this for ukuleles but it is interesting ... and it could work maybe . "The Bridge Doctor"
View attachment 142706

Timbuck- Thanks for posting. Bridge Doctor is a far slicker / more professional version of the uke-specific gizmo I've roughly fabricated. Though, per the kind responses and expert guidance from Sequoia & John, I'm no longer concerned about my soprano sound board's slight dip, since I've already spent the time & energy to cobble a prototype uke pier jack, and have built it in such a way that removal will be quick and easy, I'm going to give it a try, if only to confirm the extent to which it acts as a mute. I'm no sound engineer or acoustics expert, but it seems possible that using a larger-diameter cylinder with sound holes for the vertical support post in lieu of one plastic and one wooden dowel may actually increase a sop uke's volume and, at the very least, may not noticeably mute it. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Cheers!
 
I dont recomend this for ukuleles but it is interesting ... and it could work maybe . "The Bridge Doctor"
View attachment 142706

I've reduced bellying on 2 guitars using the Bridge Doctor and was impressed at the improvement in sound. On one of them I had to use quite some force to flatten the belly. The wooden dowel decided to break in the middle of the night causing quite a commotion.. Replaced it with an aluminium rod bearing against a small aluminium disc glued to the tail block. Worked well. Not too sure about long term effects of these but they work well in the short term.
Miguel
 
I've taken a bit of a break from uke building to work on some DIY hand tools. I'm following up the bench plane I recently made with a small block plane made from a Walnut & Maple cut-off left over from a ukulele neck. I also picked up an Irish-made Workmate folding table from a UK seller. Price including shipping was about the same as a new Oriental-made version, but this one is built better and was near mint, despite the fact that it was made between 1982 and 1985. Not shown is the Roubo frame saw that is currently in progress.

plane 2.jpg
plane 2b.jpg
plane 2c.jpg
workmate 536.jpg
 
One final DIY hand tool completed this afternoon, a small block plane. The wood for the body and lever cap began life as a Walnut & Maple lamination for a guitar project somewhere around 15 years ago. The cutoff from that guitar neck bounced around my garage and shop for over 10 years until I used it for a ukulele neck about 2 1/2 years ago. Then the cutoff from that ukulele neck went into a box until I got the idea to make a wooden block plane. It works well, and is shown with the DIY bench plane for scale. I'll take a day off from woodworking to go on a nice bike ride, then I'm back to ukuleles and bowls.

block plane.jpg
 
One final DIY hand tool completed this afternoon, a small block plane. The wood for the body and lever cap began life as a Walnut & Maple lamination for a guitar project somewhere around 15 years ago. The cutoff from that guitar neck bounced around my garage and shop for over 10 years until I used it for a ukulele neck about 2 1/2 years ago. Then the cutoff from that ukulele neck went into a box until I got the idea to make a wooden block plane. It works well, and is shown with the DIY bench plane for scale. I'll take a day off from woodworking to go on a nice bike ride, then I'm back to ukuleles and bowls.

View attachment 143135
Elegant tools!
 
I've taken a bit of a break from uke building to work on some DIY hand tools. I'm following up the bench plane I recently made with a small block plane made from a Walnut & Maple cut-off left over from a ukulele neck. I also picked up an Irish-made Workmate folding table from a UK seller. Price including shipping was about the same as a new Oriental-made version, but this one is built better and was near mint, despite the fact that it was made between 1982 and 1985. Not shown is the Roubo frame saw that is currently in progress.
Lovely looking tools, respect. 👏

What will you use as a blade for the frame saw?
 
Very interesting layout and looks awesome, but how do you intend to join the plates below the "soundhole" while maintaining the live edge look of it? Also looks like a lot of end grain glue surface for the plate on the right. Just wondering.
Great question! plates are joined and they glued up really nicely for hand shaping it. thinking about doing a v-brace with some custom bits should help keep it structural. the endgrain should be a similar concern as plates joined in a chevron pattern and i’ll pick a finish that isn’t prone to cracking or peeling. so to say the endgrain is never ideal but i’m excited to try something new with this excited wood! Let’s see where it goes.

and to nerd out more i’ve been thinking about this seam a lot and end grain gluing. maybe folks can chime in or start another thread.

concerns: impact to sound, structural flaws, cosmetic flaws.

impact to sound - yes. i am going in assuming sound will be impacted and feeling like this will still produce a beautiful sound.

structural concerns - from the videos i’ve watched it seems gluing endgrain with proper technique and the right modern glue is stable. i’m also planning on strategic bracing around that.

so that leaves cosmetic flaws. endgrain will pull in moisture differently. now on a uke where you aren’t highlighting the seam that can be a huge problem. it could feel wrong on the hands, it could crack or peel the finish. but on an uke where the seem is the highlight, where it is natural, let’s embrace that. obviously let’s not crack or peel the finish, so i’ll choose something maybe like walrus oil or tru-oil. if down the line that seam produce an unsmooth line, i feel ok with that on this uke.

any thoughts? positive and negative totally welcome and appreciated!
 
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Dust extraction was sounding a little bit strained. Tried to remember when I last cleaned the filters. Was it even this year? A bit more cleaning required than I was expecting.

Things are running a lot smoother now.
 
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