No, the bridge was just in that position for the pic. It will sit directly over the plate.
I have done it both ways. For this one, I will install and file the frets flush prior to gluing the fretboard on the neck. I also use a notched caul to make sure the fretboard is straight and firmly attached to the neck.
The venetian ukuleles I've been making have a really weird build order. First I glue the top to the sides, since the width at the end of the body determines my 12th fret width. I plane that width into a lightly slotted board, glue the board to the neck, and then use a gouge to trim the sides. Then I glue and bolt the neck to the top/sides. After the neck is on I trim the heel and glue the back. At this point my neck is still uncarved, I plane some relief into the fretboard, saw the fret slots to final depth and then fret it.
Looks lovely!
Wish I had words of advice, Jim. I've had to re-rout binding channels a couple of times because I didn't like the way the bindings fit, but I have fortunately not had any major tear-out issues.
They used to cut purfling channels by hand with a sharp blade fixed in a block of wood shaped in such a way as to guide the blade a certain distance from the edge. That said maybe don't run the purling all the way around. Get creative in your purfling design. Art isn't even. Uniformity is boring.
Wow. How does it sound? I saw a Maestro padauk video and loved the sound
Like an ukulele (kidding!). But, seriously, it sounded fine at string-up but left my possession the next day, so not much data. The padauk teardrops I have made sound very nice and full.
