Question on Neck Wood

I've been considering trying a neck from walnut, it's fairly light and very stable. Eastern walnut, which is what's native to me here in Michigan, is lighter than black walnut or claro walnut, and I think it might look nice. It's also less expensive than the other two, which is good, 'cause they can be very expensive indeed!

I have always thought that "Eastern" and "Black" were exactly the same thing, certainly they are in California Lumber yards. Black Walnut (from the east) is harder and slightly heavier than local Claro, in my experience. I have quite a bit of either. I also have English walnut from local orchards, but that is another thing all together.
 
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Michael, I've used cherry, and it's on the heavy side, but the two instruments I've built with cherry necks have the best sustain of any I've made. I've been considering trying a neck from walnut, it's fairly light and very stable. Eastern walnut, which is what's native to me here in Michigan, is lighter than black walnut or claro walnut, and I think it might look nice. It's also less expensive than the other two, which is good, 'cause they can be very expensive indeed!

I do have some cherry sitting in the shop that has been there for several years, left over from a cradle I built for a friend. There is probably enough of it to build a neck. I may put that on one of the koa bodies, and mahogany on the other. I will use either macassar ebony or cocobolo for the fretboard. I saw some "black and white" ebony lately that looked awsome, although not the look I want for these two ukes.

I was referring to Spanish Cedar in my post, although I did not know that was mahogany.
 
I do have some cherry sitting in the shop that has been there for several years, left over from a cradle I built for a friend. There is probably enough of it to build a neck. I may put that on one of the koa bodies, and mahogany on the other. I will use either macassar ebony or cocobolo for the fretboard. I saw some "black and white" ebony lately that looked awsome, although not the look I want for these two ukes.

I was referring to Spanish Cedar in my post, although I did not know that was mahogany.

Spanish Cedar is not Mahogany. Since you're not locked in to the original 2 woods, definitely save your Cocobolo for something else, and don't trade it for Spanish Cedar.

Given the choice, Mahogany for sure. Given what I'm dealt, Spanish cedar is really easy to work, light, and stable.
 
So many people are violently allergic to cocobolo, I wonder about whether it is a good choice for a fingerboard. If I put ebony or something in a fingerboard I want to be able to leave it unfinished.

Arthur Overholtzer, who was an early US classical guitar maker (early meaning early in the post war craft revival), used some rosewood in his necks, but he radically reduced their front to back thickness making them almost flat. For classical style playing, this could have it's points, though it has never taken off. I have always thought it would be fun to try that, but like all the other radical ideas, it may be better yet to resist the urge to try them... :)
 
What's with the truss rod on an instrument with such a short Neck and 4 rubber bands for strings?
Just asking.
 
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The concern over allergy to the cocobolo involves the fabricator more than the eventual player. Some of these "exotics" contain compounds that are harmful whether or not you're allergic. The airborne dust is the big villain. I wouldn't worry too much about finger contact with the fretboard. I'll concede though that there's likely someone somewhere that has that specific allergy.
 
pt. Orford Cedar neck

There are a number of 'favorites' out there for tonal and structural advantages such as Honduran mahogany, spanish cedar, Sapele, etc. But I've got to say I do enjoy a nice all Koa neck with a truss rod in it as well. Or a nice Port Orford Cedar is also an exceptional choice too. I think LMI has some neck blanks available if you'd like to give this one a shot.

http://www.lmii.com/products/mostly-wood/neck-woods/port-orford-cedar-neck-blanks

best,
Shawn Y.

http://ukulelefriend.com

I have done a p.o. cedar neck, and it polished up so beautifully it barely needed a finish. I had not expected that satiny polish.
Anne
 
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