Another band saw question

Vespa Bob said:
I'm tempted to buy a 10" saw, simply because of price and physical size, but, like so many are wisely saying, I feel I should go bigger. Nonetheless, I'm sure that I won't be cutting anything larger than ukulele necks, so I guess I'll keep looking for a used 12" or 14" for a while, then out of frustration, run out and buy a new 10"!
Thanks so much for all your suggestions, I have learned so much here about uke building and playing, I hope that I can be of help in the future.

Cheers,

Bob
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Don't do it!

Once you drop below 12" the saws become much more like a scroll saw than a real band saw. When you get to 12" they are built heavier and can accomodate larger blades. Resawing can be done effectively with lower horsepower, it's a matter of having the right type of blade and it being sharp. My lowly 12" can resaw 9" effectively, and the 12" saw is easy to roll around where I need it.

If you have room and a bit larger budget a 14" is the generally accepted "standard" small shop saw. I'm cheap (and old...) so I prefer my smaller, cheaper 12".
 
Vespa Bob said:
How about this one?
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/tls/4554021796.html
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That's my saw. I love it, and have modified mine with a 3" riser but that's a pretty advanced project. I bought mine on sale many years ago for $200, so it hurts to see a used price of $150, but everything is expensive now. You can load it with a 1/2" 3 tpi bi-metal skip tooth blade and do anything you want with it.
 
I've just talked to the owner of the saw. Unfortunately he's a long way off, but I'm going to see him on Monday. I asked about the table and he said that it's steel. He said it's in good shape other than needing a new blade. Wish me luck!

Cheers,

Bob
 
When I was on the hunt for a band saw, Paul from Koaloha (who's a member here) told me that eventually I would want to resaw wood, and that I should get the largest motor I could afford. He was right, and I've been happy with my choice of a Grizzly G0555X. The only thing I'd add to that is that you'll also eventually want to resaw a board wider than 6", and while you can buy the riser block for the Grizzly, I kind of wish I'd gone with this Rikon with the same size motor as the Grizzly, but with 13" resaw capacity. It's work area doesn't look quite as sturdy as the Grizzly cast iron, but the saw gets stellar reviews, so it can't be too bad. It's price has gone up (as has the Grizzly) since I was looking at them, but the Grizzly at least gives you a lot of bang for your buck. In addition to more resaw, I now want either a 10" bench top band saw or a scroll saw, because I get tired of swapping blades on the Grizzly. I basically use only two blades, though: a 3/4" think kerf Timberwolf for resaw, and a 1/8" Timberwolf for detail work. Timberwolf makes great blades.
 
Matt Clara said:
When I was on the hunt for a band saw, Paul from Koaloha (who's a member here) told me that eventually I would want to resaw wood, and that I should get the largest motor I could afford. He was right, and I've been happy with my choice of a Grizzly G0555X. The only thing I'd add to that is that you'll also eventually want to resaw a board wider than 6", and while you can buy the riser block for the Grizzly, I kind of wish I'd gone with this Rikon with the same size motor as the Grizzly, but with 13" resaw capacity. It's work area doesn't look quite as sturdy as the Grizzly cast iron, but the saw gets stellar reviews, so it can't be too bad. It's price has gone up (as has the Grizzly) since I was looking at them, but the Grizzly at least gives you a lot of bang for your buck. In addition to more resaw, I now want either a 10" bench top band saw or a scroll saw, because I get tired of swapping blades on the Grizzly. I basically use only two blades, though: a 3/4" think kerf Timberwolf for resaw, and a 1/8" Timberwolf for detail work. Timberwolf makes great blades.
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This is why I have two bandsaws. End of story - swapped the 3" Stellite on the Hitachi to 1" Lenox, Bi-metal first, then Tri-master, which is almost as expensive as the Stellite. Trimaster - done. Timberwolf and Woodslicers are really good, but dull SUPER fast (Woodslicer more than Timberwolf). IME.

For the 2nd saw, I ran my 10" forever. Burned it out and replaced with the 14" (as posted earlier). Bottom line, I wish I spent money on the 14" (or 12" as they were available at that time) first. Quality of cut is something you can put a price tag on.

I believe most the responses are not to have you spend more money, but actually to save more money in the long run, and learn from (some of) our mis-purchases.
 
Vespa Bob said:
I came aacross this one while browsing. Too old, too small, or is it a good buy? I haven't got a clue, but the price is good!:)
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/4556201500.html

Cheers,

Bob
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Personally, from the looks, it costs too much. Of course, this may be an antique worth lots of money - I'm not sure. I'd guess its at least a 12", so size wise you're in the right ballpark, but add in guides, blades, and stuff to tune it (which it looks like it needs a lot of), and you just more than doubled the price.

Spend a little more. This is the exact saw I have, without casters. He may be motivated to move it at a lower price. It's $450 new at Lowes.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/4553912794.html

If I had a Grizzly close by, I would've spent more on a better saw, but this one was on island. Swapped out the blade, installed cool blocks, and its good for what its supposed to be. Could be way better on the table insert, it has crap for dust collection. Cuts WAY better than my 10".

If Lowes had this in stock at the time, this would've been it:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_59964-70-28-276_0__?productId=1209197
 
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RPA_Ukuleles said:
Is that an aluminum table on that saw?
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It IS a cast and machined aluminum table, no matter what the owner says it is.

No replacement guides or upgrades are necessary, it's good as it stands if it is in good mechanical condition. I don't like many saws under 14", but this one was a sleeper when it was in production. Best bang for the buck out there when new at slightly over $200.
 
Vespa Bob said:
I came aacross this one while browsing. Too old, too small, or is it a good buy? I haven't got a clue, but the price is good!:)
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/4556201500.html

Cheers,

Bob
Click to expand...

Actually that Bandsaw might make for a pretty good user. Some of the older types were built pretty sturdy and a Bandsaw is a simple machine. It would need a very close look to make sure the bearings are OK and the wheels still run true. It's fairly cheap but best seen as a restoration project. Motor is a bit small and the depth of cut may not be huge but it should easily cut your 2 1/2" and more. It's the kind of thing that I would go for, although it may not be that suitable for someone who doesn't know bandsaws and who just wants to get a saw that works.
Guides are easy to fabricate. Even simple hardwood dowels make excellent side guides, as you can virtually touch the blade with them. Most of the time there's no need to spend huge amounts of money on guides and tyres. You do need a good blade though, that will make a significant difference.
I never can understand this idea that you should buy a bandsaw much bigger than your needs. Sure your needs may change but providing you aren't buying new (or overpaying) there is always the option of reselling and then buying the bigger bandsaw. My current bandsaw is 12 years old (bought from new, cheap as they come, 6 " depth of cut). It cost around $300. I could sell it tomorrow for $150 and I've had 12 years use from it. Things are even better if you buy used. You just have to avoid buying the stuff with 'issues'.
 
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Ken,
That's how I've been making up blades for years. My father in law taught me that method. You have to have the right silver solder tho. I didn't watch the vid to the end and maybe he did this but we anneal the join but going back and reheating the join and pulling away slowly. Helps prevent breakage of the blade. My father in law was cleaning up the join with a grinder that had a flap wheel on the other side. You can imagine what happened when the blade got caught by the flap wheel!!
 
Motor wrapped in foil - not a good sign. Be sure to give it a good look over, tires, guides, etc. That said, those guides look like there may not be parts for it - just be sure it can be adjusted and is not frozen.

Old stuff is good, but you gotta be aware of what you'll need to put into it to make it operate properly. That one looks like it needs some work. If it does, drop the price.
 
The biggest problem with the Delta Homecraft saw is that the main shaft uses oilite bronze bearings. If there is shaft or bearing wear it will require a machine shop to fabricate those parts which might end up costing a bunch of money. Hopefully it had light use and that won't be an issue.
 
Vespa Bob said:
Well, my gut feeling tells me this is what I've been holding out for! The seller doesn't know the make, but, from what I can see, it looks like a well built piece of machinery, and, best of all, it's close by! I'm going to take a look tomorrow.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/4566502056.html

Cheers,

Bob
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Looks like gramps slapped a fractional hp open frame dryer motor on that saw. It might be OK, though.
Odd that someone would list an ad without a front photo. I wonder if there's a reason for that...
 
I'm getting nervous about this one now :confused: There is a front view, though:
 

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