Started working on my Zelda ukulele

[Dane]

That's looking good! Now I'm wndering, do you put on alot of paint layers and then sand it down to make it even?

 

[Sayyadina]

That's looking good! Now I'm wndering, do you put on alot of paint layers and then sand it down to make it even?

I am putting on serveral layers where it is needed but don't dare to sand it. This is the first time I am doing something like this and I just don't want to risk damaging it by sanding and having to paint it all over again. I'd rather have the surface a little uneven. As this is built from a very cheap kit I don't expect it to sound too nice anyway hehe.

 

[upskydowncloud]

I am putting on serveral layers where it is needed but don't dare to sand it. This is the first time I am doing something like this and I just don't want to risk damaging it by sanding and having to paint it all over again. I'd rather have the surface a little uneven. As this is built from a very cheap kit I don't expect it to sound too nice anyway hehe.

Excellent. I'm v impressed. I love Zelda!

 

[Sayyadina]

Thank you guys for all the praise .
I just finished painting little Link. I think he turned out ok. That face was very hard to paint for an amateur like me.
Now all thats left to paint is the Triforce on the headstock but that will be easy in comparison. I'll keep you updated and in the end will record a little (poorly played) Zelda tune on the one and only Zelda uke!

 

[Dane]

Are you going to do any shading or 3d effects to the yellow symbol near the soundhole?

Good choice picking cell shaded btw. It's much easier to copy, thats what I would do haha.

 

[Sayyadina]

Are you going to do any shading or 3d effects to the yellow symbol near the soundhole?

Good choice picking cell shaded btw. It's much easier to copy, thats what I would do haha.

Nah I won't do anything further to the emblem. I am just not skilled enough to make it look good. You are right concerning the cell shading. It's really easier as one would think.

Here's another update: I painted the triforce on the head. The golden yellow doesn't look as good on brown as it does on black but it's still nice I think.

 

[tad]

This is coming along really nicely. It's gonna look great when it's done.

Please share any insights you gain about process, materials, etc. I've actually thought a few times about doing something like this myself, and maybe even trying to sell 'em on ebay.

 

[Sayyadina]

This is coming along really nicely. It's gonna look great when it's done.

Please share any insights you gain about process, materials, etc. I've actually thought a few times about doing something like this myself, and maybe even trying to sell 'em on ebay.

Here's a few things I learned about ukulele bullding from that first kit:

- you need a proper working table (I live in a one room appartement and got to to all the sanding, cutting, bating, etc on my balcony with a proper table), but I guess you already knew that.
- what I started with was a kit where the body was already finished (cost about 20€ or 30$), all I had to do was sand it properly and glue the parts together.
- what's not so easy is determining the middle of the body and then glueing on the neck so that it fits perfectly. I guess you need some kind of form to get it right.
- the saddle that comes with the kit is fully plastic and looks like a piece of crap. you also have to sand it down in order to lower the action or the uke will be almost unplayable.
- if you want to bate it, do that before glueing the neck on. the particular manual I had from the kit said to glue first... that's just stupid, because it makes it impossible to reach all the places properly...
- if I can think of anything more I'll let you know.

 

[tad]

Here's a few things I learned about ukulele bullding from that first kit:

- you need a proper working table (I live in a one room appartement and got to to all the sanding, cutting, bating, etc on my balcony with a proper table), but I guess you already knew that.
- what I started with was a kit where the body was already finished (cost about 20€ or 30$), all I had to do was sand it properly and glue the parts together.
- what's not so easy is determining the middle of the body and then glueing on the neck so that it fits perfectly. I guess you need some kind of form to get it right.
- the saddle that comes with the kit is fully plastic and looks like a piece of crap. you also have to sand it down in order to lower the action or the uke will be almost unplayable.
- if you want to bate it, do that before glueing the neck on. the particular manual I had from the kit said to glue first... that's just stupid, because it makes it impossible to reach all the places properly...
- if I can think of anything more I'll let you know.

Any advice about the painting process?

 

[Dane]

And what are you coating it in finally?

 

[Sayyadina]

Any advice about the painting process?

With acryl colors it's best if you paint a white undercoat first. This will bring out the colors better then a black primer and you don't have to paint so many layers to cover it up.
I used a mold to get the outlines done as good as possible and and then scetched the pic with pencil. From there you need a steady hand with the brush to paint it as neat as possible. You also need some basic knowledge in how to mix the colors but I guess you know that .

To Dane: I am coating it with several layers of matt varnish.

 

[nikolo727]

nice dude! Im looking forward for teh videos!

 

[Sayyadina]

YEEHAA, the Zelda uke is almost finished now. I only need to insert the position markers into the fretboard. Can't do that now because somehow one of them is missing. Either I lost it, which is quite possible or it was not included in the kit I bought. But that's not so much of a problem because a friend of mine had 6 instead of three markers in the kit he bought. So it is only a matter of time...
Still, the uke is playable now and doesn't even sound as bad as I expected. Freekin' awesome. I can only recommend buying a kit and building a uke yourself. It's real fun and not even that difficult.

 

[Howlin Hobbit]

I only need to insert the position markers into the fretboard. Can't do that now because somehow one of them is missing. Either I lost it, which is quite possible or it was not included in the kit I bought.

I just went through this whole thread again (to make sure the question hadn't already been answered) and...

What kit is it you're using?

 

[SeanKy671]

WOW that looks awesome dude..

 

[Sayyadina]

I just went through this whole thread again (to make sure the question hadn't already been answered) and...

What kit is it you're using?

I used a Hosco Ukulele kit. I never heard of them either but it's pretty much all that's availabe in Germany (http://www.thomann.de/de/hosco_ukulele_kit.htm). It is a lime tree laminate body and rosewood bridge + fretboard. I chose it because it was the cheapest one on the market as it was my first try at building a uke. If I had a real workshop or even a proper working table I would definitely try to continue building kits and learn some woodworking techniques. It's such a nice feeling to play on a uke that you built with your own hands... or even only glued together .

 

[Howlin Hobbit]

Thanks!

Stewart-MacDonald has a fine, solid mahogany ukulele kit. It's about €68 (plus shipping and whatever your country hits you for duties).

John Colter (often found hanging about at the Ukulele Cosmos boards) has built several. He says with a bit of care you can turn out a fine ukulele. The folks he's built them for agree.

From what I understand, you can build one with minimal special tools.

I've got one on my "future wanna list" myself. (The kit, not one built by John.)

 

[Poi Dog]

Wow - that looks really cool!