My woodworking resume doesn't include bending so any advise would be appreciated. I have some flat sawn mahogany that I have milled into banding/ inlay strips, 1/8" thick and 1/4 across the face. I'd like to bend them 180 degrees on a 3/4" radius. I made a little pipe/propane bender gizmo but have't had much luck with it. I don't need a production bender. Is a 3/4" radius just wishful thinking? Suggestions. Thanks.
Banding/inlay bending advise, please
- Thread starter bariukish
- Start date
Kekani
Well-known member
Steam it, slowly, over a pot. I'm thinking flatsawn that thick may be an issue, but I bend fs all the time, although thinner.
This is probably the way to go. I think I'll chuck up a sanding cylinder in my drill press and shave a section of the 1/8" down to .050-.060. Then try steaming for a while. If that fails, maybe multiple thin saw kerfs along a 2-3" section. If my patience holds out, I'll figure something. Thanks for the input.
rudy
Well-known member
Thinner strips will bend more easily, but you can most likely do what you're trying to do as long as you are using a back strap to bend with. That small of a radius will usually break even in thinner pieces if you're not supporting the rear of the bend. Steaming shouldn't be necessary for binding; a quick spritz with a spray bottle should work fine once you get used to the mechanics of bending.
ksquine
Well-known member
Yep...3/4" is too tight for 1/8" thick wood unless you're really lucky. Most binding is 0.08" thick and even that can be hard to bend into the waist area of a ukulele. Routing the binding rabbet 1/8" x 1/4" would be cutting well into the linings too. If you have small kerfed linings it might make it weak.
I usually keep my bindings about 0.075 - 0.08" and add a shallow strip of purfling to the top if I want a thicker look.
I usually keep my bindings about 0.075 - 0.08" and add a shallow strip of purfling to the top if I want a thicker look.
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