What *can* be done about minor fret buzz?

kissing

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On one of my concert ukes (a "Callamaria" solid spruce top - a Korean brand not well known), there was some fret buzz on the C string if I pick it moderate to hard. Not super noticeable but enough to bug me when I play instrumental pieces.

I have tried several different strings, including tenor strings for higher tension.. but the string still buzzes.

I suspected whether the action was a tad low.. so I obtained a new saddle that is higher than the previous one. The buzz is reduced but still there.. and I dont want the action to be higher.

Where do you go from here?
Get a sanding block and sand the frets? I have not done it before, though I have seen a video on HMS showing it being done..
 
Maybe fill the nut slot and re-file it.
 
I have tried filling the nut slot with superglue in the past on other ukes..
personally i never really liked this method because the superglue does wear out from friction..maybe I didnt use the right superglue
 
Just out of curiosity, have you ever conditioned your fret board? If the fret board is wood, it can dry out and cause the wood to shrink away from the frets just enough to give you a nice little buzz. I found that out on my concert Lanikai. I bought a product called "Lizard Spit" that was recommended by the local guitar shop and started conditioning all my fret boards every time I change strings. It's done the trick for me.
 
Might it be "sympathetic resonance?"
You can search the forum for discussion on this.
 
kissing wrote:
I have tried filling the nut slot with superglue in the past on other ukes..
personally i never really liked this method because the superglue does wear out from friction..maybe I didnt use the right superglue
Try super-gluing the tiniest scrap of plastic into the oversize slot. I've used slivers cut from food packaging in the past, yoghurt pot, margerine tub etc. Whilst this softer plastic may not seem totally suitable at first glance, I've never had a problem, even with the thinnest of steel strings on a mandolin, (which are relatively high tension). The thicker lower-tension nylon strings on a ukulele simply do not cause an issue.

Don't fiddle with a minute length of plastic, cut a thin strip several millimetres long so's it's easy to handle with tweezers, glue it into the nut with super-glue, then trim/file to suit once the glue is dry. Remember, breathing on super-glue that doesn't want to "set" will usually cause it to cure immediately ;) If you get it totally wrong, just cut/file it out and start again, it only takes a few seconds ;)

As always, YMMV, but nothing mentioned above should cause irreversable problems with a ukulele :)
 
A few more thoughts on the matter ...

kissing wrote:
I obtained a new saddle that is higher than the previous one. The buzz is reduced but still there.. and I dont want the action to be higher. Where do you go from here? Get a sanding block and sand the frets?

Going "back to basics" briefly ... if the string buzzes when un-fretted, it's likely to be the nut slot which is too low. If the string buzzes when fretted, the nut is out of the equation, so we have to look elsewhere.

My first step would be to ensure the neck is straight and flat (not twisted). Fret the string both at the first fret and the twelfth (use two hands!). Is there any noticeable gap between the string and the frets? If so, why? Is the neck bent? If no excessive gap, are any individual frets noticeable high? If so, some sanding/filing may be in order, but do bear in mind that lowering one fret will make the next fret relatively higher, so you may have to refinish several frets to complete the job ... slowly is the way to work here !!

Alternatively, is it your picking style causing the issue? Are you possibly "getting under" (or over) the string too much thereby causing the string to vibrate vertically (with reference to the fingerboard) rather than horizontally (parallel to the fingerboard). I get a similar issue when clawhammering and my picking nail is too long. The points of impact and/or release are marginally different from when my nail is "perfect" and the C string appears to play louder than the rest ... trim the nail and the fault goes away !! ... and yes, I did go through the loop of filing the nut and replacing the string!!

Edit : even more afterthoughts ... how much higher is the replacement saddle with respect to the original? Do realise that a millimetre at the saddle is only half a millimetre at the twelfth fret and proportionally less at the fifth fret and below. For test purposes, to save the purchase of even more saddles, one (or more) strips of our previously mentioned food container can be fitted under the saddle to raise it ;)

Hope some of this may help :)
 
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Thanks for the helpful replies;

The string does not buzz unfretted. It's only on the few frets that it buzzes on. It's the C string only.

I'm no pro player, but I don't think I'm picking excessively hard as I don't experience on the buzz on other ukes and guitars.

I've changed strings to D'addario Pro-Arte and the buzz is reduced substantially (Fremonts, Aquila and Worth buzzed)..
So in the meantime I've found an easy solution... but it also means I can *only* use these strings on this particular uke >_<
I really liked how the Fremonts sounded better
 
Have you checked to determine if the frets are level? Might be a high one.
 
Just a note on filling nut slots: I now use Titebond 2 mixed with marble dust. It dries super hard and usually requires zero filing if carefully applied so it levels in the slot as the glue shrinks up tight to the nut and kind of naturally leaves a nice finish. It might require a couple of applications. The marble dust makes the Titebond, which dries with an amber tinge, a very nicely blended white.

Yeah sometimes higher tension strings fix the problem, which seems to me means a high fret (as Phil noted) or an action adjustment is needed, as in maybe too low for that one string.
 
I think it's kind of funny that so many folks immediately assumed that the problem was at the nut. The original post cited the C string as being problematic, but not whether the buzz was happening with the open string or with a fretted note. That would have been useful information at the get-go, but here we are, trying to asses a problem without having the uke in question in hand.

My take is that the issue needs better diagnosis. A good 6" ruler might help find a high fret. The proper tools from Stew-Mac are even better.

As for just sanding down the frets...whoa, Nelly! A proper fret level, crown, and polish involves a lot more than just grinding down the frets. Yes, you can learn to do it at home, but be prepared to get the right tools for the job...which will cost you more than going to a decent luthier and having it done professionally.

As for filling at the nut...If an instrument needs this, then the superglue and baking soda fix works great and it lasts a long time. The major caveats are: 1) If you get superglue on the finish...particularly nitro lacquer...you screwed the pooch. 2) You should have the proper (yes, expensive) round bottomed files for recutting the nut slot(s).

Stewart MacDonald Guitar Shop Supply has everything you need for this stuff including tutorials. I know I'm going to get a lot of flack for not suggesting a super cheap way to do this, but I have yet to see a super cheap way that takes a reasonable amount of time and produces professional results...or even half-way decent amateur results.

You can hold the bumpers onto your car with wire ties and gaffer's tape, too...but....
 
Be thankful it's not Major Fret Buzz......he's a real doofuss......okay ,okay , so it's not helpful.......but it may have been nearly mildly amusing ....not close ...fair enough....
 
"file; buff; problem solved"

That's one of the least helpful post answers I have yet to see here or elsewhere.

What about "re-crown" on those frets? And what are your buffing steps? And what exactly do you mean by "buff"? In my shop, it has a specific meaning, and it's done with a buffer (of all things!). How redneck a job is this to be?
 
"file; buff; problem solved"

That's one of the least helpful post answers I have yet to see here or elsewhere.

What about "re-crown" on those frets? And what are your buffing steps? And what exactly do you mean by "buff"? In my shop, it has a specific meaning, and it's done with a buffer (of all things!). How redneck a job is this to be?

Fair comment and If it were a vintage Martin, I'd definitely take it to you.

I suppose the cheap ones I've botched in the past haven't required so much filing that the original crown was reduced significantly.
 
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I have trouble treating ukes or any inexpensive fretted instruments as cheap instruments when it comes to fret work, action, etc. I have one standard of fretwork...it's right and the frets are well crowned and polished or they're not. I really hate to switch gears and do crappy work on a cheap instrument. Do it right or not at all. Encourage people to buy instruments that are worth fixing up correctly, at least as far as playability goes. This isn't polishing turds, it's making an inexpensive instrument worth playing.
 
BTW, although I'm known for building "high end" instruments, one of the things I love to do is to go to music festivals like Strawberry, set up my portable workbench, and take on anything and everything from the cheapest piece on up to multi-thousand dollar mandos and guitars. If anything, the folks with inexpensive instruments are more appreciative of a good setup and decent fretwork than those who are used to it. We reglued the neck on what had to be a $40.00 uke that had been sat upon at the last Strawberry, and the look on the couple's faces when it was playable again was worth as much as we got paid to fix it. A beautiful end result? No. But it was for damned sure playable!
 
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I have trouble treating ukes or any inexpensive fretted instruments as cheap instruments when it comes to fret work, action, etc. I have one standard of fretwork...it's right and the frets are well crowned and polished or they're not. I really hate to switch gears and do crappy work on a cheap instrument. Do it right or not at all. Encourage people to buy instruments that are worth fixing up correctly, at least as far as playability goes. This isn't polishing turds, it's making an inexpensive instrument worth playing.

Since taking your build class I've purchased the proper tools and have been buying cheap uke's and setting them up to play better. So far I've managed to improve about a dozen ukes to give away. I feel like after about 100 more fret jobs I'll start to really get the hang of it. I learn something new, and/or get a little more knowledgable each time. And it is slow, tedious work when you're trying to do it right.
 
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