Is there a "standard" or "best" way to restring?

Recstar24

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I ask because I've used the method shown on HMS, but on mya moe it is a different method, and the one here on the UU tutorial is different.

The only thing I've gathered that is consistent is that the string should exit the bottom of the tuner so that it exerts the most downward pressure on the nut, and less slack of the string on the tuner is better than more slack when starting the tightening process.
 
I ask because I've used the method shown on HMS, but on mya moe it is a different method, and the one here on the UU tutorial is different.

The only thing I've gathered that is consistent is that the string should exit the bottom of the tuner so that it exerts the most downward pressure on the nut, and less slack of the string on the tuner is better than more slack when starting the tightening process.

I would also add that you do not need that many wraps on the peg before starting to tighten, as having more wraps when the strings are under tension is less desirable. I also like to "pinch" the tail of the string between two wraps, pull it tight, then begin turning the peg. Usually works out great for me. You can see what I mean on the G string below.
TuningPegs.jpg
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I go with no slack and will still end up with about 3-4 wraps on the peg, slot heads are larher so a little slack is ok. The critiria being no overlap or bunching on the peg, less is better. I pass the string through the hole twice to lock it on the peg.These are my two essential steps everything else just falls into place
 
I learned from a video put out by HMS. Maybe, I'll stop by when you're ready to restring some of those Mainlands.
 
I learned from a video put out by HMS. Maybe, I'll stop by when you're ready to restring some of those Mainlands.

I restring according to the same video on HMS. And I will hold you to the offer - we will need to restring all 30 and wipe down the fingerboards from a years worth of junior high kids.
 
I think restringing really depends on the tuners - slotheads for sure are different, but I restring my Giannini differently compared to my Pono soprano or KoAlanas because the overall height is different. I think restringing is, in a sense, like tying your shoe - there's many different ways to go about doing it. In terms of those videos, I just internalized the info and now the rest is just muscle memory, which may or may not leave out and take some of the steps in those videos. I think the main goal is (other than getting the string secured around the post haha) to have enough slack to ensure correct intonation and nothing else that may hinder the sound, like additional slack on top of the soundboard near the bridge that may cause buzzing or a sharp fret end, etc.
 
I would also add that you do not need that many wraps on the peg before starting to tighten, as having more wraps when the strings are under tension is less desirable. I also like to "pinch" the tail of the string between two wraps, pull it tight, then begin turning the peg. Usually works out great for me. You can see what I mean on the G string below.

Out of curiosity, what is your logic regarding fewer wraps being more desirable?
 
Out of curiosity, what is your logic regarding fewer wraps being more desirable?

I don't know about Pueo's logic, but mine would be that more wraps = more surface area to stretch, which means the strings will take longer to settle in.
 
I hear tell of a desert survival kit that consists of a uku and a set of strings.

If you're lost in the desert, get out the uke and start to restring it. Someone will come along and say, "That ain't the right way to string a ukulele!"

Or that might be a dry martini.

Study the videos, but every instrument will be slightly different, to say nothing of the myriad of string types. Experimentation is your best bet.
 
Out of curiosity, what is your logic regarding fewer wraps being more desirable?

I don't know about Pueo's logic, but mine would be that more wraps = more surface area to stretch, which means the strings will take longer to settle in.

I have uke that came with so many wraps on the E string that it's starting to form a second row and I've noticed it has a tendency to slip out of tune as the string slips over itself.
 
I have uke that came with so many wraps on the E string that it's starting to form a second row and I've noticed it has a tendency to slip out of tune as the string slips over itself.

I agree that the windings should not overlap... But I am interested in knowing the logic of "as few as possible".
 
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