Radiused Fretwire Slots in the Fingerboard - When and How?
This is a question rather than a reply, but it deals with the same topic of the building process for radiused fretwires and fingerboards so I thought it best to add it to this thread rather than start a new post.
I have installed straight fretwires into flat-bottomed, unradiused finger boards on the acoustic ukuleles I've built. I cut my fretwire slots using a template and crosscut sled on my table saw using the small, thin fret slot blade sold by Stewmac.com. I make sure the slot depth is no more than what is needed by the height of the fretwire tang. So far, I've tapped them in with a fretting hammer using both the plastic and brass end and have not added any super glue. No problems to date.
Now I am in the middle of building my first radiused fingerboard (for a solid body, mini-bass ukulele) and it will have a compound radius. (Probably 20" at headstock and 12" near the end of the fingerboard.) I have followed my regular process of cutting the slots on a squared stock of uniform thickness and now plan to radius the board then taper it before attaching it to the neck. My question (finally!) is:
After radiusing the fingerboard, the slots I have already cut into it will no longer be the same depth. The slots will be shallower at the edges of the fingerboard and deepest in the center. I would like the depth to be as close to uniform as possible across the entire width of the fingerboard. I know of no way to accomplish this other than by using a hand saw in combination with a depth gauge and manually redressing each fret slot to its desired depth.
Has anyone else addressed this problem or do you just cut the required depth on the edges and let the middle of each slot be deeper than what's needed?
Is there a jig or some process step to best accomplish "radiused fretwire slots" in the fingerboard?