Bolt on neck bits?

IKEA or other flat pack furniture spare parts section. Some hardware stores carry this sort of hardware as well. For the transverse (barrel) nuts a simple bit of steel rod, a drill bit and a thread tap and die set can work too.
 
In the UK try Screwfix. 6mm furniture bolts, 10mm dia barrel nuts, threaded inserts all available in a good variety of sizes and cost next to nothing.

Personally, I would go for barrel nuts dropped into a hole drilled into the neck, rather than the screw inserts shown in the LMI link. The nuts can be a little tight in a 10mm hole though, so I take the precaution of drilling & tapping for a 4mm screw in the end of the nut. That way you have something to get hold of if you need to pull the barrel nut out again!

http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/showthread.php?61556-Another-way-to-drill-for-bolt-on-necks
 
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Wildestcat said:
In the UK try Screwfix. 6mm furniture bolts, 10mm dia barrel nuts, threaded inserts all available in a good variety of sizes and cost next to nothing.

Personally, I would go for barrel nuts dropped into a hole drilled into the neck, rather than the screw inserts shown in the LMI link. The nuts can be a little tight in a 10mm hole though, so I take the precaution of drilling & tapping for a 4mm screw in the end of the nut. That way you have something to get hold of if you need to pull the barrel nut out again!

http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/showthread.php?61556-Another-way-to-drill-for-bolt-on-necks
Click to expand...

That sounds like a good method thanks I'll go for that. So, barrel nut in neck, furniture bolt through neck block, is there more to it than that? Other than perfectly lining up the holes obviously. Also I presume one is adequate on a soprano?
Sorry to ask what probably seem like simple questions. Im sure you know how it is, when youre a beginner it's just good to learn an easy method and stick to it.
 
i much prefer the flat headed bolts (the silver ones on the LMI page) over the machine screw type
 
This cutaway view of the bolt-on neck is self explanatory. Before gluing on the back, line up the neck with the uke body the way you want it and temporarily clamp the two together. Mark the inner surface of the neck heel through the neck block with a brad point bit. Drill your bolt hole then drill the nut hole from the top of the neck. Take the time to line things up perfectly.
Before gluing in the neck block I like to countersink the bolt head and cover it with a label of some sort when the uke is complete. I also always add a small bit of glue to the bottom of the heel. You can fill the nut hole with a piece of doweling.
In the USA, Rockler is good source for quality nut/bolt hardware. Their nuts are machined instead of being cast like you'll find at the hardware store. (The castings can be kind of rough sometimes.)
 

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I salute you Chuck! Your sacrifice of the uke for our edification is commendable, even heroic. However, the next time you get the urge to cut one of your ukes in half, call me first. Please. I got ukes that deserve cutting in half more than yours.... Reminds me of where they cut the cadaver in half to show you internal anatomy. Kinda scary. Almost creepy.
 
Moore Bettah Ukuleles said:
I cut that uke in half just now in order to show the method to the OP. Tell me I don't go the extra mile to help out here!
Click to expand...

�� Thanks a lot for that Chuck, got it. Thanks to everyone else also
 
DazW said:
Also I presume one is adequate on a soprano?
Click to expand...

One bolt is fine, however you need to be a bit more careful with a Soprano, as you will need access through the soundhole wielding a hex key. Even using a specially cut down ball end key, I find the smallest soundhole I can work through is 54mm dia - a touch larger than I would like to use. On my cigar box sopranos I make a wooden "doughnut" disc that sits inside the 54mm hole, overlapping the soundboard by 5mm or so and providing a raised rosette effect.
Interested to hear how other builders address the bolt access issue on smaller instruments, and whether you can use a bolt on neck with offset soundholes?

I should add that my construction method involves building and finishing the box and neck as separate items.
 
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I've seen one guy somewhere on the interweb (sorry for being so vague - can't find the link) who made a super long allen key and pokes it through the tail pin hole. Won't work for everyone but it may solve the problem for some folk.
Miguel
 
I use bolts with a hex recess in the head (like the silver one at the bottom of the LMI page http://www.lmii.com/products/mostly-...n-neck-inserts).

I drive them with a 1/4" socket hosting a cut down (to shorten) hex driver, backed with a universal joint like:
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-14127-...21353454&sr=8-2&keywords=1/4+universal+socket

This is backed with an extension and then the driver handle (I use a screwdriver handle, no need for a ratchet).

This handles both centered sound holes and offset ones (Kasha braced). I have used it on tenors only, but it should handle the smaller dimensions of a soprano. I'd add a picture but I am away from the shop for a while.
 
Allen key through the end pin is the way to go... I don't mind seeing the method of fixing the neck and I do it completely different from what is described here but if you DO A SEARCH you will find the answer in the archives probably several times over :) and over :)

Cool pic chuck. You have all the answers my friend :)
 
Pete Howlett said:
Allen key through the end pin is the way to go... I don't mind seeing the method of fixing the neck and I do it completely different from what is described here but if you DO A SEARCH you will find the answer in the archives probably several times over :) and over :)

Cool pic chuck. You have all the answers my friend :)
Click to expand...

Plenty of searches done already Pete thanks. My original question was specifically directed to UK builders asking where's the best/cheapest place to buy a few bits. The thread has moved on a little from then admittedly, but the original question was a genuine request for a tip on where's best to buy from, something I could not find in the archives. Cheers ��
 
lauburu said:
I've seen one guy somewhere on the interweb (sorry for being so vague - can't find the link) who made a super long allen key and pokes it through the tail pin hole. Won't work for everyone but it may solve the problem for some folk.
Miguel
Click to expand...

Thanks for the "long key through tail pin hole" suggestion - I guess I'd better start incorporating a tail pin in my builds! I've never seen the need for one before ...
 
Here are my solutions to the various bolt on scenarios I run into. The bolt can be tightened through the sound hole, side sound port, pick up jack hole, etc. Most can be found at the big box hardware stores and modified to your situation. The first one, the springy one, is most valuable for tight situations.
 

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dmecha1012 said:
Can I buy that Uke now for half price? ......Lets say $1,750 ?
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Haha. Believe it or not I've had a lot of offers on it. Go figure. I get a lot of students and beginner builders visiting me so it's nice to have something that explains what I can in words. At some point every builder needs to cut one of their instruments in half. We all secretly want to!
 
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