HELP! Changing Strings with drop Pin

Brenda Wong

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It's snowing in Toronto (Canada) , stuck in the house so I decided I might as well do something - like changing strings on my new concert Kanile'a !

I followed the instruction from previous posts (see link below) + a super nice member emailed me with tips. Aaron from HMS already shown me how to do it when I was there. I have changed strings on my old Kala. No big deal. I can do it. :)

Step 1: Decided to start with the G, it's the toughest, it should not snap .
I cut the Oasis string in half because that's how they came in. I think the half string is too long for my concert but too afraid to trim .

Step 2: carefully pulled out the original G . Follow the same style of knot and drop in the Oasis. Placed the pin back with the side that has a gap facing the bridge. Check to make sure it is at the same level as the other three pins. There is nothing to turn. You just push the pin down in place.

NIGHTMARE STARTED:
Step 3: start tightening the string
Step 4: heard a sound but nothing happened
Step 5: continue to turn , suddenly the string and the pin popped out of the slot.

Tried again, same thing happened. At this point I already worked up quite a sweat.

I quickly put the original string back in the hole . Start tightening the string, same thing happened , popped out of the slot as soon as it starting to tighten up. (I have the peg turner but choose to use my hand instead so it's not turning too quickly)

Second try, this time nothing popped but the string feels like it has reached the tightest max in F# . Too afraid to keep tuning to G. (I use digital tuner)

Will I hurt the uku neck by tuning too much if the string looks to be reaching it maximum tightness?

What did I do wrong? I am so scare. Now the uku just sit in the stand with a F# instead of G.

Local music store will charge $16 but I prefer to do it myself. It's one of those things you have to learn and get past the fear. Below is link to previous posts by others. Its sound so simple yet I can't do it. Am I the only dumb dumb?

http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/archive/index.php/t-5681.html
 

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If it's at F#, it is not at it's maximum tightness, as this string gauge is designed as a G ... are you sure it's not a low g and you're attempting to tune it to high g? In that case, STOP! Sometimes with the bridge pin style, you have to apply light pressure on the pin when you're tightening the string, or as you found out, it likes to pop out until it has some pressure from the tightened string to hold it in place. Hope this helps!
 
If it's at F#, it is not at it's maximum tightness, as this string gauge is designed as a G ... are you sure it's not a low g and you're attempting to tune it to high g? In that case, STOP! Sometimes with the bridge pin style, you have to apply light pressure on the pin when you're tightening the string, or as you found out, it likes to pop out until it has some pressure from the tightened string to hold it in place. Hope this helps!

No it's a high G because I put back the original string when the new one keeps popping. New one is High G also but I have not gotten that far yet. I just developed this fear . It will take me days to make another attempt.
 
Are you positive you didn't already pass the correct pitch an octave ago? I would think the string would break in that case ... but maybe not. Compare it to the 1st string (A) on your other uke ... it should be tuned a step LOWER than that at G ... if it is in fact lower in pitch than the A on a properly tuned uke, but at F# ... you should be able to bring it up to proper G pitch. On the other hand, if it is HIGHER in pitch ... you passed the octave and are WAY to tight. Why do you think the string has reached maximum tension? If it's at the correct octave, your tuner is telling you otherwise.
 
Are you positive you didn't already pass the correct pitch an octave ago? I would think the string would break in that case ... but maybe not. Compare it to the 1st string (A) on your other uke ... it should be tuned a step LOWER than that at G ... if it is in fact lower in pitch than the A on a properly tuned uke, but at F# ... you should be able to bring it up to proper G pitch. On the other hand, if it is HIGHER in pitch ... you passed the octave and are WAY to tight. Why do you think the string has reached maximum tension? If it's at the correct octave, your tuner is telling you otherwise.

The string feels very tight so I am afraid to keep tuning. No it did not pass the octave , I am sure of it.
I am talking about the original string that came with the uku NOT the new Oasis string I attempted to change. I was too afraid to change the Oasis so I put the original string back and that's when it feels tight by the time it reaches F#. I let it sit for a while, may be the string will stretch a little more. I knew it's trouble when I have nothing better to do this morning. :-(
 
My advice is this:

The string should hold even without the pin. Knot the end of the string. Insert the knot in the hole. Use a bamboo skewer or similar to engage the string in the tiny notch that in the fretboard end of the hole. While keeping light tension so that the string and knot stay where they are, put a light amount of tension on the string using the tuner, just enough so it stays in place by itself (no hands). Then insert the pin. Then bring it up to tension. The pin is almost unnecessary, the knotted string should be holding on its own.

Unless you are tuning way too high, there isn't much to be afraid of. The worst I've had is the pin flying across the room and disappearing beneath a piece of furniture, or the knot coming untied. Have everyone wear safety goggles I suppose :)

good luck
 
Hold the pin down firm with your right thumb while you're tuning the string to pitch. You won't hurt anything by pushing down on the pin while you're tuning it up.
 
I don't know if this will help but my tuner has a setting for other instruments as well as for ukulele double check and make sure your settings on the tuner are either set to chromatic or for ukulele. If it is set for an instrument that doesn't normally tune to a G string it could show as an F# because the tuner does not expect to be tuning a "G".

For example if My tuner is set to Gutiar I play the C string and it shows as B even if my C string is tuned correctlly.

Also if there are any numbers you want the numbers to be 440.
 
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I don't know if this will help but my tuner has a setting for other instruments as well as for ukulele double check and make sure your settings on the tuner are either set to chromatic or for ukulele. If it is set for an instrument that doesn't normally tune to a G string it could show as an F# because the tuner does not expect to be tuning a "G".

Also if there are any numbers you want the numbers to be 440.

It's a tuner for ukulele only. It is very accurate. I can probably turn back to G , the string just feels very tight already so didn't want to take a chance. If the string snap, I would have to change all four strings .
 
My advice is this:

The string should hold even without the pin. Knot the end of the string. Insert the knot in the hole. Use a bamboo skewer or similar to engage the string in the tiny notch that in the fretboard end of the hole. While keeping light tension so that the string and knot stay where they are, put a light amount of tension on the string using the tuner, just enough so it stays in place by itself (no hands). Then insert the pin. Then bring it up to tension. The pin is almost unnecessary, the knotted string should be holding on its own.

Unless you are tuning way too high, there isn't much to be afraid of. The worst I've had is the pin flying across the room and disappearing beneath a piece of furniture, or the knot coming untied. Have everyone wear safety goggles I suppose :)

good luck

I am also afraid of the pin flying across the room or break because it's plastic. Won't be able to buy part. Gosh I wish I could bring Aaron home !!! Where is he when I needed him. LOL
 
This topic comes up periodically on the forum. When I got my first uke with a pin bridge, I had the same thing happen to me too. It's a little startling, but it shouldn't be a big deal. I seriously doubt you are damaging the neck or anything like that. Stringing a pin bridge starts with a good, and sufficiently bulky knot. I typically use a figure 8 knot, and for thin very gauge strings, I'll add an extra overhand knot to the figure 8. Next, insert the string into the pin hole, and feed a couple of inches into the body of the uke. The pin hole should have a slot cut on the side closest to the saddle. Make sure the string is in this slot, then insert the pin. Seat the pin with moderate pressure (not too hard, but enough to wedge it in). Next pull the string tight, and if it is properly fitted in the slot, it should slide until the knot makes contact with the pin. There is a very good diagram on this old UU thread (I even think it is a Kanilea that is depicted!).

http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/showthread.php?32269-Bridge-Pin-Missile-Yikes

I hope this helps. Good luck, and don't give up! You will get it!

-Steve

Edit: Just saw Peewee's advice, and it is good advice. The only difference for me, is that I actually put the pin in place before I attach the string to the tuner. The bottom line is that the string needs to be in the slot, and the knot ends up trapped against the side of the pin. It sounds like the knot is contacting the bottom of the pin in your case, thus pulling the pin out of the hole. Best of luck!
 
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You'll get it. just follow all the advice posted here, then tune your uke ;)
This is why , though attractive, I dislike pin bridges.
make a big knot, but not too big to go through the hole. put the pin in , and while holding the pin , pull on the string till no more slips out.. then put it through the peg and tighten while pressing on the pin. you should be good to go.
 
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You guys made it sound so easy. :-( I need to work up the courage to give it another go. At least now I know I should keep a finger on the pin while I tighten the string ( hope I read it right).
This strings changing 'move' is very frightening and intimidating. :)
 
This topic comes up periodically on the forum. When I got my first uke with a pin bridge, I had the same thing happen to me too. It's a little startling, but it shouldn't be a big deal. I seriously doubt you are damaging the neck or anything like that. Stringing a pin bridge starts with a good, and sufficiently bulky knot. I typically use a figure 8 knot, and for thin very gauge strings, I'll add an extra overhand knot to the figure 8. Next, insert the string into the pin hole, and feed a couple of inches into the body of the uke. The pin hole should have a slot cut on the side closest to the saddle. Make sure the string is in this slot, then insert the pin. Seat the pin with moderate pressure (not too hard, but enough to wedge it in). Next pull the string tight, and if it is properly fitted in the slot, it should slide until the knot makes contact with the pin. There is a very good diagram on this old UU thread (I even think it is a Kanilea that is depicted!).

http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com/showthread.php?32269-Bridge-Pin-Missile-Yikes

I hope this helps. Good luck, and don't give up! You will get it!

-Steve

Edit: Just saw Peewee's advice, and it is good advice. The only difference for me, is that I actually put the pin in place before I attach the string to the tuner. The bottom line is that the string needs to be in the slot, and the knot ends up trapped against the side of the pin. It sounds like the knot is contacting the bottom of the pin in your case, thus pulling the pin out of the hole. Best of luck!

Thank you for the link but now I am even more confused. Shooting up the ceiling? LOL
The diagram helps . Thanks
 
I have a couple of Islander ukes (laminates made by Kanilea) with bridge pins- the design is slightly different than on the the solid Kanilea's but the principle is the same.
I too was really nervous the first time I changed strings. The discussion link that Telperion quoted above helped a lot. And the Ashley Stopper Knot was a godsend LOL. I was so worried about trying to tune an octave too high I got the free ipad app Instuner which shows the octave. But the advice given above is bang on (bring to slight tension and/or hold down the pin), you won't hurt anything - once you do it once successfully it becomes second nature.
One thing I have found is that it seems harder and the tension higher than anticipated when the humidity is low.
 
The string isn't smart enough to know whether it's held in place by a knot and pin, or run through a hole and wrapped around itself. It just wants tuned ;)
 
It's possible that your uke is giving you problems because you keep referring to it as a "parasitic louse" ... that's the meaning of the word "uku" wink wink with tongue sticking out
 
Hi Brenda,

One thing to realize is that the pin is not supposed to hold the string tension, instead the bottom of the bridge is supposed to hold the string tension, and the pin merely holds the string in position so that the string knot can rest against the underside of the bridge.

If your bridge pin pops out, it is because the knot is pushing against the end of the pin, which is incorrect installation, as others have mentioned here, you should have a large enough knot, and have the knot pull up against the underside of the bridge, and NOT against the pin.

It takes a little finesse to feel that the string has 'locked' in.

If instead you have the string knot pulling up the bridge pin, there's simply no way that a friction-fit tapered bridge pin is going to resist the approximate 15lbs of transverse tension force from the string, and NOT pop out.

Pls let me know if this makes sense to you. If not, I will try to find another explanation (or video) and provide you a link.

-Booli
 
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