sequoia
Well-known member
I've been trying to join two bookmatched figured Oregon myrtle top plates today and it was not a pleasant experience. I've joined straight grained woods like spruce and redwood before in minutes with no problems at all, but this myrtle was another thing altogether. I actually put in 6 frustrating hours (!!!) trying to get a perfect joint until I finally found something that worked.
This particular timber has a beautiful knot in the middle at the joint which is why I bought it. The plan is to position the knot right where the sound hole is going to be so it gets cut out with the thought that the denser wood around the sound hole will reinforce my rosette. Also there is some wild grain radiating out of the knot that should look like sound waves coming out of the sound hole. That's the vision anyway.
I tried the shooting board thing which was a complete failure since the plane tended to dig in a little bit on the knot or skip over a tiny bit. Went to the old sandpaper on a flat surface method and that didn't work either. Tried a sanding stick on the knot to compensate and that ruined my edges, so.... I tried the sand paper taped to a 3 foot level method and it worked like a charm. It has a handle in the middle which allowed me to press down just a bit over the knotty part and I got perfect edges and a perfect joint using the tape method. Just thought I would pass it along... Highly figured wood is cool looking, but brings all sorts of other things into the equation like knots. Knots suck.
This particular timber has a beautiful knot in the middle at the joint which is why I bought it. The plan is to position the knot right where the sound hole is going to be so it gets cut out with the thought that the denser wood around the sound hole will reinforce my rosette. Also there is some wild grain radiating out of the knot that should look like sound waves coming out of the sound hole. That's the vision anyway.
I tried the shooting board thing which was a complete failure since the plane tended to dig in a little bit on the knot or skip over a tiny bit. Went to the old sandpaper on a flat surface method and that didn't work either. Tried a sanding stick on the knot to compensate and that ruined my edges, so.... I tried the sand paper taped to a 3 foot level method and it worked like a charm. It has a handle in the middle which allowed me to press down just a bit over the knotty part and I got perfect edges and a perfect joint using the tape method. Just thought I would pass it along... Highly figured wood is cool looking, but brings all sorts of other things into the equation like knots. Knots suck.