Neck comparison - Ohana vs Pono

Jerwin

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Hello there,

I would like to know what is the difference in string spacing at the saddle and nut of Ohana and Pono tenor.


Been playing Kala Asac Concert which has string spacing slightly smaller than my tenor Ohana TK20 and I still can't get used to it.
The difference between each string at saddle spacing at concert kala and my tenor ohana is 0,8 mm. And maybe 0,3 mm at hte nut.


Considering a purchase of Pono MTD. Help me solve my dillema, please!

Thanks

J
 
You can't and won't go wrong with Pono. I have three Pono Pro Classic Tenor's ... just kind of worked out that way ... love the quality of sound and playability.

Check out www.theukulelesite.com ... I believe the information you are looking for will have the spacing on the site.
 
Sorry Jerwin, I don't know the answer to your question, but I had almost the same problem some weeks ago.

My first ukulele was a Pukanala with a very narrrow neck. The concert model's neck, for example, is just as wide as my Brüko soprano's neck.
Then I got a better ukulele with, unfortunately, more space between the strings. I liked the instrument but playing it wasn't comfortable at all. So I brought it to a luthier who then made a new bone nut which did not only change the space between the strings but also improved the sound. The neck did not feel to wide for the new saddle! I thought it would, but it feels really natural.

However, it turned out that the string spacing was now a bit too tight for me. So I went to the luthier again, he suggested making another nut, curving the fretboard, installing new frets, and adjusting the saddle. And now I have a great ukulele with the perfect string spacing and a fantastic radiused fretboard built for my hands. No factory ukulele could be as perfect for me!

Sounds expensive? I paid 100€ for all that. I guess it'll be even cheaper in the Czech Republic.

Ohana makes great ukuleles. If you're happy with the instrument (apart from the string space problem), I'd suggest bringing it to a luthier instead of buying a new one.

Cheers

Timo
 
Pono necks are their biggest flaw from a playability standpoint. I love the Pro Classic Tenors, they are one of the best values around. But Pono necks have truss rods that make them so thick they feel to me like a baseball bat split in half. I feel that their necks don't properly taper. This is an issue of depth, not width.

However, it isn't that hard to adjust to. The space between the strings is standard. The action will come nicely adjusted. I would without hesitation pick the Pono over the Ohana, even with the fat neck (but not wide). I will note that my experience with the Pro Classic Tenors has been much happier than with their standard line. I think they've put a lot of care and attention into the Pro Classics that I'm not sure is there in their overall production. Every Pono I've had has felt overbuilt, even the Pro Classics. The wierd thing is that even though they are too heavy, and even though the necks are too thick, they sound and play great and I like them a lot.
 
Would you be please so kind and measure the thickness of the neck at the nut? I know it's 35mm wide. I can set the action myself, but I certainly will not chizzle the neck :D

I may be bad googler, yet I haven't found data like weight and some sort of basic measurements. Only nut width and body size...
 
I happen to have a Pono tenor and a metric steel rule handy..........what a nerd, heh!

Spacing at the nut inside to inside of each string is 8mm, at the saddle it is 14mm. Hope that helps

Just saw your question regarding neck depth. From the top of the fret board to the bottom of the neck at the first fret wire it is 23/32". Measuring right at the nut would be misleading as the neck starts to taper toward the headstock there.

I love depth of the neck, it is all personal and I sold a Pete Howlett because the neck was too shallow for me
 
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Pono necks are their biggest flaw from a playability standpoint. I love the Pro Classic Tenors, they are one of the best values around. But Pono necks have truss rods that make them so thick they feel to me like a baseball bat split in half. I feel that their necks don't properly taper. This is an issue of depth, not width.

It think that's a matter of preference. I like the thicker Pono neck. Bar chords seem easier to keep pressure on, and generally the buzz you sometimes get from sloppy chording seems less of an issue meaning its more tolerant of slop. I don't think the truss rod is what makes it thick, and that's only tenor and baritone anyway. I think the thickness is just the design

The gloss neck is a little sticky jumping around, but I'm guessing that will break in too. I don't have particularly large hands either. It's very comfortable to play IMO.

It is much fatter feeling than kala's. Also, the whole thing is alot heavier. The wood is thicker and the headstock block is really thick. It feels heavy and solid, which is both good and bad.

If someone doesn't beat me to it, I can post up comparison pics and weights tonight.
 
DownUpDave: Thanks a lot for the reply. The spacing is exactly the same as my ohana, which is great. Is there any way you could also measure the neck thickness att the nut?

Thanks!
 
DownUpDave: Thanks a lot for the reply. The spacing is exactly the same as my ohana, which is great. Is there any way you could also measure the neck thickness att the nut?

Thanks!


Saw this question after my first answer. I have added that to my original post It is 23/32" at first fret wire.
 
It think that's a matter of preference. I like the thicker Pono neck. Bar chords seem easier to keep pressure on, and generally the buzz you sometimes get from sloppy chording seems less of an issue meaning its more tolerant of slop. I don't think the truss rod is what makes it thick, and that's only tenor and baritone anyway. I think the thickness is just the design

The gloss neck is a little sticky jumping around, but I'm guessing that will break in too. I don't have particularly large hands either. It's very comfortable to play IMO.

It is much fatter feeling than kala's. Also, the whole thing is alot heavier. The wood is thicker and the headstock block is really thick. It feels heavy and solid, which is both good and bad.

If someone doesn't beat me to it, I can post up comparison pics and weights tonight.


Would be amazing, thanks!
 
If the rest of the world was this helpful and cooperative we would have world peace. Jake is right "everyone should play ukulele" :shaka:
 
You guys made my decision even harder though!

I can't wait for the weight info!

Thanks a lot, again
 
what a crazy thread! 0.8 mm is pretty miniscule, don't ya' think? We're really getting down to the gnat's a$$ here!
 
Now, I am not sure if online purchase is a good thing.

Well.. If you can buy in person, it's always better. You can check the dealer website to see if there's one near you.
http://koolauukulele.com/dealers/

If you can't, I would strongly suggest hawaii music supply, as I'm sure many others would as well. If you need assurance that you'll be taken care of more than the couple bucks you might save somewhere else.. HMS/theukulelesite.com is it. They are incredible on every level.
 
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