Has anyone built a resophonic uke with a side soundport?

Gary Gill

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Are sound holes on the front needed?
 
It is my understanding that the sound from resonator instruments comes from influence of the strings vibrating against the cone, not due to any movement of the soundboard. Not sure why additional soundholes would be needed, but I've see them on the upper bout of some instruments. I always thought they were mainly decorative in an essentially inert soundboard.

I'd very much like to see more discussion of this and other questions about resonators. I have an order for a tenor resonator in the queue, but I haven't the first clue as to how to build one or where to get the cone, bridge and cover! Anyone know of a source for plans and reso parts?
 
I built about five or six of them several years ago with side ports (one on each side). It probably doesn't matter if they are on the top or side. I also made the aluminium cover plates because I couldn't find them for a ukulele size cone. I really don't care for their sound because resos are all about the steel strings. If I ever build another it will be steel string--the body should be stout enough to handle them already. Would it still be a ukulele if it had steel strings?


reso1.jpg reso2.jpg
 
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Would it still be a ukulele if it had steel strings?
Absolutely, if it has a ukulele scale length and a ukulele tuning (fourth-third-fourth), I'd still call it a ukulele.
 
Would it still be a ukulele if it had steel strings?


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What I love about ukuleles is that pretty much anything goes... I would think that nylon strings and a metal cone might not work that great and steel strings would be needed. Lovely instruments though Hluth. Any samples of how these ukes sound?
 
Resonator ukuleles don't require steel strings. I string all my resos with the same fluorocarbon strings as the acoustics. I'll put a couple of videos here and in following posts that show some resos of mine. For entertainment, click on Rufus or Brian. For a stuttering builder with a lame swemerrican accent, click me.



And a link to posts about resonators on my blog:
http://www.argapa.blogspot.se/search/label/Resonator batch production
 



And no, I don't see the holes on the front as necessary. Side ports would do the job, but I like the looks of the holes.
 
That's my mate Sven. Manufacturer of unnecessary apertures since 2009.
 
My Beltona has' F' holes on the front, and the well where the cone sits has holes so the body of the resonator is not a closed box. If it was a closed box, the resonator would be muffled due to the cone having to compress the sealed air behind it, as opposed to move it.
h
 
One last bit of information, and apologies if it seems I hijacked the thread with videos.

Remember to clean out the innards of a reso uke BEFORE screwing on the cover plate with 12 screws. A small amount of dust will rattle a lot, and if you cover the sound ports with mesh the vacuum cleaner will not draw it out.

Don't ask me how I know this.
 
My Beltona has' F' holes on the front, and the well where the cone sits has holes so the body of the resonator is not a closed box. If it was a closed box, the resonator would be muffled due to the cone having to compress the sealed air behind it, as opposed to move it.
h

Yes, I've played a custom made resonator ukulele without any holes and it sounded muffled and subdued. I suspect that this would be why.

Anthony
 
This is probably a silly question but I'm having trouble finding good information or plans for resonators: How is the soundwell attached to the body before the top goes on? Photos I've seen of resonator innards look like the soundwell touches the body only at the tail block, but that doesn't seem to me like a very secure connection.
 
This is probably a silly question but I'm having trouble finding good information or plans for resonators: How is the soundwell attached to the body before the top goes on? Photos I've seen of resonator innards look like the soundwell touches the body only at the tail block, but that doesn't seem to me like a very secure connection.

I have noticed the same thing. I am pondering a reso version of my pear shape tenor. Any detailed information would be appreciated.
 
I build with a bomb proof plywood skeleton that I then attach sides, bottom and top to. There are other, simpler methods but I am reluctant to change what is for me a winning concept. If you check the link I gave a few posts back you can see pics on my blog of the skeletons.

Sven
 
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