View Full Version : Attaching AL Flashing

02-19-2015, 04:39 AM
Hi all. I need advice on fixing Al material to a female bending form. I have been racking my brain, trying to think of a way to make it smooth, eg, no screw heads on edges. How do you folks attach it to your frameworks? Are there any tried and true methods for this? Thanks in advance for your suggestions. Gary

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
02-19-2015, 07:16 AM
Either LMI or Stew Mac sells stainless steel for this very purpose. It's thick enough where it'll smooth out any imperfections in your mold. I use 6 screws per mold, two at the waist and two at either end of the bout. They are well off to the side and don't interfere with the sides I'm bending.

02-19-2015, 07:18 AM
I would cut the flashing 2" wider than the form....1" wide overhang on each side. Then cut V notches into the overhang, 1" deep on each side, to create tabs. Lay the flashing on the form and fold the tabs over the edge and staple/screw/nail them to the sides of the form

02-19-2015, 09:56 AM
I use stainless steel sheet ...don't attach mine at the edges, just at the ends... the mould is made from aluminium with steel heat retaining rods tho'.

02-19-2015, 10:31 AM
Thanks for the reply guys. My spring steel is 6 inches wide and I was planning on making the moulds 7 in. Wide to make unobstructed area, with room for pan head screws, Robertson drive, of course, on the sides. I was picturing many screws, but it sounds like I don't need many if I use stainless, which is an excellent choice. The idea is to use 3, 3/4 plywood uprights, with 1/8 3/4 AL flatbar as cross supports. Can anyone see any conflicts or problems arising with this plan? Thanx for your generous help. Gary

02-19-2015, 12:33 PM
What is the heat source, light bulbs or heat blanket ?

02-20-2015, 04:40 AM
I am in the process of buying a silicone, etched foil ,624 blanket, Timbuck. This will allow me to bend both sides in one heat.

Moore Bettah Ukuleles
02-20-2015, 06:06 AM
I want my bending forms to be as smooth and kink-free as my finished ukes. No metal bars for me, my forms are all solid wood.

02-20-2015, 06:22 AM
Thanks Chuck, I think I will do the solid form too. I've got blue tempered spring steel, colorless canvass for moisture. I have already built the necessary templates for routing, so a little extra bandsawing and routing will be worthwhile in the long run. Sounds pretty much like your setup, eh. GaryHovde