Attack of the Grilled Cheese Sandwich or What Else Can go Wrong?

So today I'm working on my side project with the beautiful sinker redwood top. I dodged the bullet and mostly missed the hideous CA staining that can come from a binding job. I did the shellac seal and still got this wicking staining...



I manged to sand back (mostly) to kill the staining and then took a break to eat lunch. I had a grilled cheese sandwich grilled with butter. I did not wash my hands well afterwards. I came back and continued my binding trimming work and then I notice this hand print on my top. Three fingers and a thumb imprint. Oh man. I'm tellin'n ya, the way to disaster is just one grilled cheese sandwich away. I would send pictures, but the hand imprint is subtle, but the point is: Just when you think every disaster is thought of, you learn a new lesson. Who would have thought a simple thing like a sandwich would mar my top? Learning the hard way.

Can you give one good reason why you are using CA for binding? Especially on Redwood? If you can then I'm all ears, 'cause it's gotta be some great secret that I'm not aware of.

And you can ask any student that goes through one of my classes. I don't care one bit if you wash your hands before you eat lunch, but don't even think of walking back in the shop before they get washed after eating.

Yup! we had a guy on here a couple of years back, who dropped some bacon on a top and stained it all the way through

Mmmmmmm, bacon!

Hmmm bacon infused ukuleles.

Guess he went hog wild.

Allen said:

Can you give one good reason why you are using CA for binding? Especially on Redwood?

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Uh... because that's the way I do it Allen? By the way, the staining in this case was superficial and sanded out. The reason I started using CA on binding was that I used to use plastic binding and perfling. Obviously Titebond is not going to glue plastic to wood so I turned to CA. I do not like the weld-on cements (Duco etc. etc.). Also, as an amateur builder with limited skills, the CA method lets me do a careful set-up and adjustment of my binding before I glue by locking it in place with binding tape. Once I get the perfect set-up, I don't have to take it apart to apply any glue. I have gotten excellent results with the method so I'm happy with it. I guess you could say it works for me and that is what's important isn't it? There is more than one way to skin a cat if I was into skinning cats.

I have never taken a lutherie class or worked with any instrument builder so my methods might seem primitive and odd, but when I find something that works, I tend to stick with it. The binding pictured by the way is all wood including the perfling so I could have just used a wood glue. Funny how we get welded to a way of doing things sometimes. Change is hard.

It's the wood. Don't use CA with Redwood (especially that sinker stuff), or some Cedars. Test the woods before you jump in.

BlackBearUkes said:

It's the wood. Don't use CA with Redwood (especially that sinker stuff), or some Cedars. Test the woods before you jump in.

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I'm pretty sure any softwood is susceptible. I've gotten similar looking stains using fish glue on spruce, due to re-moisturizing and heating it to squeeze out gaps.

And my fingers produce enough oil/sweat that I don't need a grilled cheese to contaminate a surface At least, after countless hours of handling throughout the build process. Lately I've been fairly obsessive about shellacking all surfaces as soon as they're near-final to keep them clean. Works great.

Redwood will suck up anything that is in the vicinity. Thats why they use it for solar fruit drying racks.

Of the 500+ instruments I have made, I have never had a problem with any spruce or Western red cedar using CA.

DennisK said:

I'm pretty sure any softwood is susceptible. I've gotten similar looking stains using fish glue on spruce, due to re-moisturizing and heating it to squeeze out gaps.

And my fingers produce enough oil/sweat that I don't need a grilled cheese to contaminate a surface At least, after countless hours of handling throughout the build process. Lately I've been fairly obsessive about shellacking all surfaces as soon as they're near-final to keep them clean. Works great.

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BlackBearUkes said:

Of the 500+ instruments I have made, I have never had a problem with any spruce or Western red cedar using CA.

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Ditto. Redwood is a different story.

I use titebond on top binding and ca on back binding.

I use titebond on mitered/butted purfling ends as the W in the BWB can also stain.

Titebond for all rosettes in softwood (Titebond holds shell down well enough)

Did you have tomato soup with the grilled cheese? I think that's mandatory

Hi littleriveruke

There seems to be some confusion.

Dave Sigman is a luthier who has been making ukes for a long time. His website is the following: http://www.littleriverukuleles.com/

He just sold a uke on Hawaii Music Supply and his inlay work is awesome. In respect to Dave Sigman, it might be good to change your ID so there is no confusion. Many luthiers use their real name or their brand name on UU. Thank you

Yes, when I first picked the name Littleriverukes I had no idea that there was a uke luthier that lived in Little River. I mean, the population of this town is about 150 people and what are the chances? It was totally unintentional on my part. Anyway, I have since gotten to know Dave and it turns out he lives just up the road. It was a total coincidence and I have been thinking I should change my handle. Yes, you are right. I need to change the name so there is no confusion. I am in no way as accomplished as Dave is. I am an amateur and he is a pro... so I'm gonna change the name. Thanks.