View Full Version : Starting to finish.

03-07-2015, 11:18 AM
So, I am just about ready to start the ‘finishing’ process on my Tenor Ukulele.

It solid mahogany body and neck, with rosewood fingerboard and a black walnut head plate.

I have researched and come to the decision that I am going to Z-poxy pore fill, then Tru-oil finish.

What I can’t find out is:

What grit level should I ‘sand to’ prior to starting the pore fill?
Also, would you damp sand as well before starting?

Sorry for noobie question

03-07-2015, 02:52 PM
Prior to pore filling with the epoxy you would go to at least P220 grit, but no finer than P400. Work through your grits making sure that the previous scratches are removed before going on to the next grit. Depending on the wood (how hard or soft it is) this is the range I will go to. Very hard woods I will stop at P220. Soft woods tend to show fine scratches more and I will go to P320 or in rare cases P400.

You do not wet sand raw wood. You can take a rag that is just damp and give the wood a wipe to help raise the grain. Do not wet the surface. Allow to dry and then sand the raised grain.

Michael Smith
03-07-2015, 03:31 PM
I use a small squeegee for spreading and forcing zpoxy into the pores. You can use an old credit card but doesn't work as well. Usually takes three coats to get a decent fill job. On the first coat it can help to warm the surface of the wood with a hair dryer just before zpoxy application. Ditto with the sanding grit information Allen has put forth. I really like working with zpoxy but stopped using it because of the amber cast. No wet sanding but I use Naphtha to wipe down before pore fill.

03-07-2015, 07:11 PM
Here is what I do: Sand out to 320. I don't think 400 is needed but I do it sometimes just 'cause it makes me feel good. Basically what Allen says. Damp sand (not a wet sand) with a little warm water damp cloth twice with a couple hours dry time in between. Depends on the wood. Repeat and sand out when it doesn't feel hairy. Don't go overboard here with the water. Water + Ukulele = Not Good. Then a rub down with a little methanol (or other polar solvent) which takes off the grease and takes the water out of the wood. Then to backer step with diluted laquer or cut shellac and then onto pore fill.

By the way, I just bought some of this new SMD clear filler, but have not had a chance to try it. I like the idea. Has anyone tried it? Really interesting alternative ti z-poxy or ugly pastes.


Michael Smith
03-07-2015, 07:36 PM
Please post a review of this clear pore filler. I'm very interested to know about it.

03-07-2015, 09:58 PM
Thanks for the replies guys. that is EXACTLY what I needed to know.

I did mean damp sand (rather than wet!) again, you guys provided the correct steps had I or any others reading this not known.
THIS is the kind of advice that is both useful and productive.


today is a sanding day.....

03-08-2015, 07:25 AM
Hi Kev. I have been using either Z-Poxy or BSI "finish cure" epoxy pore fill followed by Tru-oil for a while now, and I am happy with the results. However, acting on advice from this forum, before starting to apply the Tru-oil I wipe on a coat or two of de-waxed shellac to act as a binder between the epoxy and the oil.