Could strings be the cause of tuning irregularity?

Erwin Dink

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I've been playing a particular baritone ukulele for about a year. During that time it's been tuned (low) DGBE using various D'Addario strings and I've not had any problems tuning it or keeping it in tune. But I just changed the strings to Southcoast HMU-NW re-entrant strings. Since doing so I'm seeing (hearing, actually) something that I've never run into before. The D and E strings tune up just fine but the G and B strings don't They sound fine when tuned open but when fretted they are both sounding about a quarter step high. To be clear, when plucked open the G tunes to G and the B tunes to B but when fretted on the second string the G reads about halfway between A and A# and the B reads about halfway C and C#. The difference occurs on all frets.

I would expect this kind of issue to be a problem with some of the frets but, if so, why didn't it show up until I changed to these strings? I'm baffled.
 
I've been playing a particular baritone ukulele for about a year. During that time it's been tuned (low) DGBE using various D'Addario strings and I've not had any problems tuning it or keeping it in tune. But I just changed the strings to Southcoast HMU-NW re-entrant strings. Since doing so I'm seeing (hearing, actually) something that I've never run into before. The D and E strings tune up just fine but the G and B strings don't They sound fine when tuned open but when fretted they are both sounding about a quarter step high. To be clear, when plucked open the G tunes to G and the B tunes to B but when fretted on the second string the G reads about halfway between A and A# and the B reads about halfway C and C#. The difference occurs on all frets.

I would expect this kind of issue to be a problem with some of the frets but, if so, why didn't it show up until I changed to these strings? I'm baffled.

Sounds like a string problem. Talk to Dirk at SouthCoast about it.
Sometimes flipping the string (nut to saddle) will correct it.
 
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Perhaps the strings are thicker than the old set and not sitting down in the nut slots?
 
I agree with Jim. Almost sure this is the problem.
 
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If it has to do with the slots in the nut and bridge it raises a larger question. In spite of playing for over a year I'm still pretty new and haven't settled in with a favorite uke and string combination. I've got two cheap ukes, one decent one, and a Pono Baritone on the way. I haven't yet found ideal strings for any of the ones in hand already so I'm trying lots of different sets. Once I find the right strings per instrument should I have custom bridges and nuts made to accommodate the strings?
 
If you have the tools (small file and/or sand paper) and confidence. You can carefully widen a slot to accommodate a larger string.
 
If you have the tools (small file and/or sand paper) and confidence. You can carefully widen a slot to accommodate a larger string.

Will probably order some files from stew,mac.com this afternoon.
 
I think part of the problem is simply that the strings are still stretching and haven't settled yet. It's about 4 or 5 days and I'm still having to re-tune every time I pick up the uke to play. I'm not used to this. The D'Addario strings I was using for Low D settled in pretty quickly. These Southcoast strings are the stretchiest I've ever tried.

The G string is behaving almost normally. The B is still off on the frets compared to open but it's a little bit less of a difference. Still noticeable but improving.

Thanks for all the replies.
 
I think part of the problem is simply that the strings are still stretching and haven't settled yet. It's about 4 or 5 days and I'm still having to re-tune every time I pick up the uke to play. I'm not used to this. The D'Addario strings I was using for Low D settled in pretty quickly. These Southcoast strings are the stretchiest I've ever tried.

The G string is behaving almost normally. The B is still off on the frets compared to open but it's a little bit less of a difference. Still noticeable but improving.

Thanks for all the replies.

If the D'Addario and/or Southcoast strings are all nylon, they will be thicker than fluorocarbon strings, and also Aquila Nylgut and SuperNylgut strings tend to be thicker than fluorocarbon strings. have you tried any fluorocarbon strings?

Doing so may save you from having to modify the nut. Worth "BB" baritone strings are a good fluorocarbon set to start with for the baritone. That's what I have on mine right now. They are a linear tuned DGBE set. However, I found the 'D' string from the set to have too little tension and am using/testing a single D'Addario 0.030" lightly-polished wound string from their EJ44LP set.

Also you might want to see my post here, on breaking in a new set of strings (I’m too lazy to retype it all):

http://forum.ukuleleunderground.com...in-a-new-set-of-strings&p=1651184#post1651184

Also, if the notes are slightly sharp when you fret the first 5 frets, but all in tune when the strings are open, your nuts slots may be cut too tall (i.e., not DEEP enough) and this is throwing off the intonation on those strings, going VERY SLOWLY to file those slots down, like half a mm at a time and then retune and test the intonation with a tuner, and if not quite right, slack the string and repeat. Be VERY careful to remove only a TINY amount of material from the nut slot at a time, like the thickness of a human hair, no more than 3 strokes with the file between checking it, otherwise if you go too far you either have to replace the nut, or rebuild the height in the nut slot with superglue or epoxy, wait for it to cure and harden overnight, and then repeat it all over again.

Please keep us posted, and let us know if you need further help. :)
 
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I have not tried fluorocarbon on this uke. I tried them on another uke and didn't like the feel or the sound -- they felt loose and sounded thin. I think the problem is, as you and others suggest, is that the new strings aren't fitting in the slots properly. I'll be ordering some files soon and giving that a try.

Thanks
 
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