Need suggestions how to repair binding channel tearout, please

Gary Gill

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Crisis or opportunity? I was climb cutting with the router and tore out the grain. The body is primavera and the binding will be walnut. I looked for the pieces, but haven't found them yet.

What might you suggest to repair or disguise this problem? Thanks

Binding channel tearout 24AUG15.jpg
 
Ouch... Tear-out from hell. The pencil marks are not needed Gary. The only thing that comes to my mind is to cut a purfling ledge on the side wide enough to cover the tear-out and put purfling in there. Maybe something decorative like bwb or wbw or just a contrasting strip?? The problem with this fix is that the binding on the side is going to be very wide. Maybe it will look cool. It will certainly look different. Maybe somebody else has a miracle fix.
 
Adding purfling is a good idea, but that would be some thick purfling to hide that.
I would just put the binding on and fill the tear out with thick CA glue. Once filled, sanded smooth and finished it will be pretty invisible. You'll just be seeing the side wood under it
 
Adding purfling is a good idea, but that would be some thick purfling to hide that.
I would just put the binding on and fill the tear out with thick CA glue. Once filled, sanded smooth and finished it will be pretty invisible. You'll just be seeing the side wood under it

I just did this on a bocote body and the repair is virtually undetectable. I have the body finished and waiting for buff and while I can find the repair, because I know where it is, it just worked out great.
 
Thanks for the ideas. I will install the binding and try the CA glue. I've built fifty ukuleles so far and the learning curve continues to climb. :)
 
I would just put the binding on and fill the tear out with thick CA glue. Once filled, sanded smooth and finished it will be pretty invisible. You'll just be seeing the side wood under it

Very interesting. But wouldn't the CA stain the wood slightly darker in the repaired area? Would love to see some before and after pictures. Yes, that would have to be some thick purfling and it might turn out looking... strange?
 
Use full depth bindings if you aren't already.

Always rout from the the widest points of the bouts towards the waist and towards the neck/butt. Dont rout form butt to widest part of bout
 
If you have any well matching bits of the Prima Vera, you could graft on bits, or even a patch using hide glue. The hide glue will be less likely to leave any glue line or have any creep in the future. And it won't stain the area around like CA can. I've done a few repairs on violins (and bows) this way and if your wood is a good match, the repair is invisible. A tough break, but a number of options to recover. Good luck.
 
I've found that the least noticeable method for filling gaps and holes is to mix white glue with sawdust from a cutoff of the wood. In my experience, CA changes the color of the filler far more than white glue (e.g. Elmers) does. Mix glue and sawdust into a thick paste, fill the gap/hole, let dry, and sand flush. Two or more applications may be needed for a completely level surface.
 
No filler will hide that to an 'invisible' level. It doesn't matter what glue or what filler. As previously stated a graft of the same wood is going to offer the best solution, especially if you can get the wood reflection to match. It needs to be 'scooped' rather than any straight joint lines. The only difference is that a good graft is much harder to do than just filling it with glue and sawdust.
 
also, whatever you do, another method is to scratch grain lines across the straight parts/ glue joins then grain fill with something dark. the eye will follow the fake horizontal grain lines instead of the vertical glue lines.
 
I just went through the same thing yesterday. I went to a wider binding plus a purfling. Trying to hide big tear outs is pointless. If you aren't trying to please a particular client, whatever you do is right. It may not be the way you initially envisioned, but it will be right. You don't have to worry about pleasing anyone who wasn't going to buy it anyhow, what you do is right. You may not be able to sell it, but the work will be clean and you will be right. Be confident. People tell you something is wrong with it? "Opinions vary," Dalton, in "Road House".

If you were trying to please a particular client and they will know the difference, start over and sell the current one on the side. You will still be right. It sucks to need a sale badly and have something go wrong with the build, but if you are right by your own lights you are golden. Hungry, maybe, but right.
 
From a repairmans point of view, here is what I would do since it is new wood. Fill the area with real wood, even cut the area bigger and fill with the same kind of wood. After sanding smooth, it may look fine and nothing more needs to be done, if not, seal the area with a little shellac. After dry, use quality powdered colors that are made to be mixed with lacquer and with a very fine brush, paint the witness line out and try to match the exact color of the wood, adding grain lines if neccessary. Once the whole thing is dry, add a little color to your first coat of lacquer and spray the whole uke, back and sides with this mixture. Proceed to finish then as you normally would, sprayed lacquer is best for this kind of reapir but shellac will also work fine. That's what I would do.
 
And if all else fails-think sunburst!

Great idea!. Dark tobacco on a sawdust and glue fix. Only the builder will know... Funny but I was cutting binding channels yesterday just before I read the post. What happened is one of my many binding nightmares. It can happen real fast. Glad I read the post afterwards or a tense situation would have been tenser and tense is not good with hand held routers.

I get Beau's genius hiding idea (fooling the eye), but what you guys are saying is rout out a square or scallop and lay in a piece of the same wood? I must be missing something here because I'm not seeing that working easy on a radioused side. I don't think I wanna go there. Could you explain a little more in detail how you would do this? Not being snarky. I just don't get it. Thanks.
 
Flat gouge or sharp chisel, scoop away all the wood that shows the tear out. So at one end it comes in from nothing, grows to remove the tear out and tapers to nothing at the other end. Kind of like a smile shape. It doesn't have to go through the entire thickness of the rib, you are removing material at roughly 45 degrees. That way you don't go all the way through the rib
The graft is just the impression of what you have created on the Uke rib. The graft will have to be pre bent before trying to fit it. A bit like the impression your dentist takes of your mouth when all your teeth have fallen out. You can chalk fit the graft, stretchy masking tape to clamp, glue it over sized. If he has off cuts from the same wood it's pretty straightforward, although time consuming to do well. It's a lot more difficult if he hasn't any off cuts because it would involve matching wood reflection, even if it was the same type of wood it may end up being quite visible.
 
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