Kamaka HF3 vs Ko'olau T100

blodzoom

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I've been playing for a few months now. In my area, I get limited opportunity to get my hands on really nice ukes so my experience is limited.

I currently play a $100 Lanikai, which was enough to get me hooked but I'm jonesin' for something nicer.

My local store has two really nice tenors that I'm considering grabbing (one of, not both). One's a new HF3, the other is a slightly used (excellent condition) T100. I've handled and played both but it's hard to get apples to apples comparison because one is tuned with a low G. They're both koa and beautiful and the difference in price isn't enough to sway me either way. The T100 has a radiused ebony fretboard that I like the look of but at my current level, I can't tell if it affects playability

Does anyone have experience with both of these or any opinions in general on used vs new or radiused/ebony fretboards?
 
Dont have any epic insight to offer but either way congrats! Dont think you can make a "wrong" choice here.

ive not played a radiused fretboard but seems like i see a lot of positive comments about them here on UU
 
Both are very high end, high quality ukuleles, the old "can't go wrong with either" applies here.

It really will boil down to personal preference, which feels right to you and which do you absolutely love the look of, seriously. The one that you are visually drawn to, the one you just want to hold is the one for you.

A biased view of my own, I would buy the Ko'olau if I liked the look of it. That is a custom made uke so the set up should be better and closer attention paid to every little detail. But if the Kamaka spoke to me I won't hesitate,:)confused yet!!!

Good luck
 
I feel that new or used doesn't make much of a difference with higher end instruments, if, as in your case, you can inspect them before buying. The radiused vs. flat fretboard consensus seems to be that it's strongly subjective. I have no experience with a radiused fretboard, this is just my conclusion after I sifted through numerous threads where it was discussed. :)

Everything else equal, I'd probably pick the Ko'olau T100, because you don't see those often. But really, that's a superficial reason, and I'd go with the one that "clicks" with me. (And I'd ask if one of them can be strung with a different G string so that I could better compare the sound, depending on whether you plan on low-G or high-G.)
 
MarkBDoc, don't congratulate me yet, I haven't done anything but I promise to update with pictures if/when a choice finally gets made (I've visited them a few times already)

DownUpDave and Mivo, you've pretty much confirmed what I wanted to hear. Since I'm inexperienced, I didn't want to get something and then find out that I wished I got the other one instead but if there is no "wrong" choice, then I'm free to go with my gut.

Thanks guys.
 
If the prices are good (in line with used prices in the Marketplace), and it's financially do-able, you could always get both, hang onto them for a while, and then sell the one you like less! That'd be the sure-fire way to avoid any possible doubts later on, with at most a small loss (would be worth the experience, like a rental fee), but yeah... probably not a very responsible approach. :)
 
I like the way you think, Mivo, but I don't think my wife would.
 
If you prefer one form of turning over the other, have them tune both to that turning for a more direct comparison. They should be willing to do that for you to facilitate your comparison.
 
Another vote for the Ko'olau for reasons previously stated. I also think it has the edge on "elegance."
 
If you're serious about this purchase, buy a set of strings you like either from them, or take the set in, and ask them to string up both so they're both high or low G, which ever you plan on playing, so you can make the right decision. At that kind of price tag, I can't see them objecting, and that way 1) you'll pick the one you like better, and 2) you won't be wondering.. should I have bought that other one instead?

There's no one better to decide which one is right for you than you.
 
I'd suggest making the comparison with both strung low G. Even supposedly identical instruments from the same maker can sound significantly different with a low G. Due to body resonance some will boom unacceptably more than others. Ukes from makers of this quality should both sound great in high G. You might also want to check to see how a note sustains as you move up the frets on the A string. I have instruments that sound great with first position chords but then seem to have dead spots when picking individual notes above the seventh fret.

Radiused vs. flat fingerboards is very much a matter of personal preference. Try forming some barre chords on both and see which feels better to you.

As far as new vs. old, some new instruments will "open up" and sound better after they've been played for a while but it should sound very good when new. If it gets better .... bonus.

Welcome to the forum.
 
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Some great tips, thank you guys. They are very friendly and would probably restring it go for me but i was hesitant to ask because i don't like being a pain in the ass but i think i will.

I did some barre cords on each and really just noticed that both are easier than my current uke. The radius didn't seem that noticeable. I'll check again and focus on this.

Thanks for the tip about individual high notes. I didn't know to try this. I only played chords and didn't go that high.

Thanks guys, I'm glad i asked.
 
The used Ko'olau T100 is probably a better value, and would yield a better resale price, should you ever choose to sell it. I prefer the tone of the Ko'olau, and also like the neck profile on the Ko'olau better than the Kamaka.
 
The used Ko'olau T100 is probably a better value, and would yield a better resale price, should you ever choose to sell it. I prefer the tone of the Ko'olau, and also like the neck profile on the Ko'olau better than the Kamaka.

But the Kamaka has 100 years of history behind it and is what you think of when you envision "tradition."


(just flaming the fire here;go with what your ears tell you)
 
Just thought to add that new Kamakas are almost always sold with the stock black nylon Kamaka strings. Many would argue that this would give the Ko'olau an unfair advantage before your comparison even starts. Strings are also a personal preference thing but, if you are comparing nylon to fluorocarbon strings, you're adding an additional apples to oranges element to your comparison. So, if you can, buy (you'll need them eventually anyway) and compare with identical string sets.
 
Just thought to add that new Kamakas are almost always sold with the stock black nylon Kamaka strings. Many would argue that this would give the Ko'olau an unfair advantage before your comparison even starts. Strings are also a personal preference thing but, if you are comparing nylon to fluorocarbon strings, you're adding an additional apples to oranges element to your comparison. So, if you can, buy (you'll need them eventually anyway) and compare with identical string sets.

Ko'olau ukes were usually sold with nylon Ko'olau strings, which sound a bit better than the nylon strings Kamaka uses. But I usually replace those with fluorocarbon strings from Oasis or Savarez.
 
This might be a weird question... Is there any kind of unwritten code about how good I should be before I buy a nice instrument? Is it like mountain biking where I look like some kind of poser if I show up with sweet gear and then I suck at riding?
 
This might be a weird question... Is there any kind of unwritten code about how good I should be before I buy a nice instrument? Is it like mountain biking where I look like some kind of poser if I show up with sweet gear and then I suck at riding?

There have been several threads about this issue in the past. To sum it up: There's no relation between the quality of an instrument and the quality of the player, a better instrument will arguably help becoming a better player, etc.

I think your approach to upgrade from a 100$ uke to one worth 10 times is absolutely adequate. I'd get the best instrument you can afford, and choose the one you like best (to me, that would definitely be the Ko'olau).
 
The store does not have to restring both entire ukes. They just need to swap out the low G string for the high G string, or visa versa, on one uke.

So, they need to swap out one string for you to compare both ukes.

Koolaus are custom, Kamakas are production. All else being equal, I'm with the others: Koolau (unless your ears and eyes suggest differently).
 
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